Sunday, October 2

Collage Sunday- Dries Van Noten goes to Spain
DriesVanNotenSS12
Style.com, LaCartujadeSevilla.es
I never thought the day would come when I would disagree with Tim Blanks on his reviews. The Spanish references he found on Dries van Noten's latest collections were, to me, a little lost. It is true that there was a clear Balenciaga influence, especially in therms of the shapes of the big coats and peplums. And even more literal Spanish references like the toreador boleros (even a parka!) or the bullfighter's cape turned into a fuchsia skirt. But most of the references were not that obvious.
Hamish Bowles explained on his review how Dries didn't want to work with prints that were intended for fabrics. So he showed us two types –one more traditional and a much more modern one.  The first one, in black and white, was inspired in a Spanish version of early Victorian prints. The Pickman family established then in the south of Spain a company of British china –La Cartuja de Sevilla–, which soon adopted the landscapes and scenes of the folkloric Spanish south.
The second type of prints were very contemporary. Bird's eye views of countries and cities that progressively went from literal prints on t-shirts and flamenco-dacer skirts to abstractions of the images in the shape of crystals that embellished the last part of the collection.
One of the best DVN collections I can remember and possibly one of the cleverest we are going to see from Paris for the SS12 season.

1 comment:

Eva Ana Kazić said...

Must say I feel you about the Tim Blanks reference.

EAK