Armani Privé: Couture Supernova
Courtesy of Armani

Before Raf Simons came into the picture this season Mr Armani was the only designer creating super luxurious but modern pieces for the couture week in Paris. I was so glad when he finally joined the circuit with his Privé line several seasons ago. The clean lines and the number of trousers he puts on the runway are so refreshing to me.
This season Giorgio Armani has stuck to his guns, which have proved so successful to date. But we saw quite a lot of daywear – couture daywear, which is the ultimate luxury. High-waisted silk trousers , lightweight organza or silk tops and sky-coloured blazer make perfect choices for a brunch.
One of my favourite things about the collection was the palette from space – nebulas, stars, galaxies and the explosion of mauves, lilacs, purples, pinks and blues of a supernova. An extremely chic choice. My other favourite were the veils, which looked like pieces of art perfectly befitting a gala ball à la Blade Runner. I always love the futuristic aspect in all the Privé collections.

What did you think of the Armani Privé collection?

Givenchy Haute Couture: Gypsy Chic
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Every single season when I look at the Givenchy couture images and I see all the close-up instagrams of the beads and the twitpics of the fringes I wish I was there at the Givenchy showroom to see all this wonders in person. I can cope with missing details from ready-to-wear but it's kind of painful to know that no matter how close you look at an image you'll never be able to appreciate the intricacy. Soon enough.

Riccardo Tisci has made of capes and fringes his sort of signature touch on his couture collections for the French house. This season he once again reconciled the world couture and the street with quite a gypsy inspired line. But there was also something tribal about the patterns of the beads and the embroidery – I couldn't but think of the masai.

I also adored the green scenery Tisci chose to shoot his FW12 lookbook. It makes the looks feel more grounded, cozy even. And the touch of the German shepherd next to Joan Smalls just made my heart melt. Get me a gypsy wedding like this anytime.

Christian Dior Haute Couture by Raf Simons
Screencaps from Diormag.com

I don't remember feeling this much anticipation about a collection since Tom Ford left Gucci and YSL in 2004. It was evident, I thought, that Raf Simons would not disappoint even at switching from the clean and architectural Jil Sander to the grand and dramatic Dior. And so it was. It would be silly to try and compare Simons and John Galliano but we saw a very special type of couture yesterday that we would have never seen from the latter – modern, 21st century couture. This is what Raf Simons created in less than 20 minutes.
It was such an incredible feeling seeing the new looks – how apt  an expression – walk down the flower-flanked catwalk. The traces of Simons work were so evident in everything from the clean architectural shapes to the delicate powder hues and yet there they were, the 'New Look' and the 'Bar Jacket' almost like time hadn't passed since the 40's.
My favourite numbers were the sheer spandex-like tops with voluminous full skirts that made up gowns. It was almost like Raf was trying to humour me – his SS11 collection for Jil Sander will always be one of my fashion highlights. My other favourite were the trousers. It's so rare to see any at the couture shows but they feel so natural worn with embroidered peplum tops or trailed strapless blouses.
I am, once again, happy and glad that we'll be enjoying Simons at his best for a while.

Atelier Versace FW12: Moltissimo Versace
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What better way to kick off the Parisian Haute Couture week than with Atelier Versace? The recently revived line has been such a hit lately and, personally, it's one of the HC collections I look forward the most together with Jean Paul Gaultier and Givenchy. Though this season I am, of course, very much looking forward to Raf Simons at Christian Dior!

Versace, which had been so modern and clean in its lines for couture, seems to have returned to its opulent origins. I must admit that even though it's not quite my taste the play on patchwork on the shorter numbers and the sinuous lines of the collection are as beautiful and striking as they are sexy. I also enjoyed the first hint at the Atelier Versace jewellery line that the house launched yesterday as well  – I can't wait to see it in full!

In attendance at the show were such verious guests like Jessica Alba, who rocked a leather and studs Versace LBD number, M.I.A, who would have made Gianni himself proud in her baroque Versace look, and Anna Wintour, who chose to wear FW12 Prada because... she's Anna Wintour. Franca was accompanied by two of my favourite people in fashion, the ever sophisticated Harry and Peter Brant.

What do you make of the collection?

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