Keira Knightley covers the latest American Vogue
Vogue.com

A preview of Keira Knightley's latest American Vogue cover came out a few days so I had enough time to make up my mind about it. And I love it!

Styled by Grace Coddington in  mostly couture and shot by Mario Testino, Keira looks amazing in her Chanel lace dress and cuffed silver gloves (very Karl!). The magazine is back to their close crops for cover images but this one really works. It's the mix of the luxurious look and the more casual pose that really make it great.

The story inside, which I hope is longer than what we can see online, is as beautiful as it is simple as most of the shots are just in a studio. It's about the couture pieces on Kiera, who is probably one of the best celebrities in the world to rock any of them.

What do you think of the cover?

Marion Cotillard is the first to wear Dior Haute Couture FW12
Style.com, JustJared

Last night, for the London premiere of 'The Dark Knight Rises', Marion Cotillard wore one of the looks from Raf Simons' first collection for Christian Dior Haute Couture. This was so unexpected for me it took me a while to even recognise the look. It's amazing how well the dress translates to real life. I guess that's one of the main things we're going to be seeing from Raf. It has such contemporary slick lines but it's so exquisitely made. I actually love Marion's choice of shoes a lot – they introduce a great extra pop of colour – and how she wasn't wearing any necklace. It was utterly chic. What do you think of Marion's look?

Armani Privé: Couture Supernova
Courtesy of Armani

Before Raf Simons came into the picture this season Mr Armani was the only designer creating super luxurious but modern pieces for the couture week in Paris. I was so glad when he finally joined the circuit with his Privé line several seasons ago. The clean lines and the number of trousers he puts on the runway are so refreshing to me.
This season Giorgio Armani has stuck to his guns, which have proved so successful to date. But we saw quite a lot of daywear – couture daywear, which is the ultimate luxury. High-waisted silk trousers , lightweight organza or silk tops and sky-coloured blazer make perfect choices for a brunch.
One of my favourite things about the collection was the palette from space – nebulas, stars, galaxies and the explosion of mauves, lilacs, purples, pinks and blues of a supernova. An extremely chic choice. My other favourite were the veils, which looked like pieces of art perfectly befitting a gala ball à la Blade Runner. I always love the futuristic aspect in all the Privé collections.

What did you think of the Armani Privé collection?

Givenchy Haute Couture: Gypsy Chic
Style.com

Every single season when I look at the Givenchy couture images and I see all the close-up instagrams of the beads and the twitpics of the fringes I wish I was there at the Givenchy showroom to see all this wonders in person. I can cope with missing details from ready-to-wear but it's kind of painful to know that no matter how close you look at an image you'll never be able to appreciate the intricacy. Soon enough.

Riccardo Tisci has made of capes and fringes his sort of signature touch on his couture collections for the French house. This season he once again reconciled the world couture and the street with quite a gypsy inspired line. But there was also something tribal about the patterns of the beads and the embroidery – I couldn't but think of the masai.

I also adored the green scenery Tisci chose to shoot his FW12 lookbook. It makes the looks feel more grounded, cozy even. And the touch of the German shepherd next to Joan Smalls just made my heart melt. Get me a gypsy wedding like this anytime.

Christian Dior Haute Couture by Raf Simons
Screencaps from Diormag.com

I don't remember feeling this much anticipation about a collection since Tom Ford left Gucci and YSL in 2004. It was evident, I thought, that Raf Simons would not disappoint even at switching from the clean and architectural Jil Sander to the grand and dramatic Dior. And so it was. It would be silly to try and compare Simons and John Galliano but we saw a very special type of couture yesterday that we would have never seen from the latter – modern, 21st century couture. This is what Raf Simons created in less than 20 minutes.
It was such an incredible feeling seeing the new looks – how apt  an expression – walk down the flower-flanked catwalk. The traces of Simons work were so evident in everything from the clean architectural shapes to the delicate powder hues and yet there they were, the 'New Look' and the 'Bar Jacket' almost like time hadn't passed since the 40's.
My favourite numbers were the sheer spandex-like tops with voluminous full skirts that made up gowns. It was almost like Raf was trying to humour me – his SS11 collection for Jil Sander will always be one of my fashion highlights. My other favourite were the trousers. It's so rare to see any at the couture shows but they feel so natural worn with embroidered peplum tops or trailed strapless blouses.
I am, once again, happy and glad that we'll be enjoying Simons at his best for a while.

Atelier Versace FW12: Moltissimo Versace
Getty

What better way to kick off the Parisian Haute Couture week than with Atelier Versace? The recently revived line has been such a hit lately and, personally, it's one of the HC collections I look forward the most together with Jean Paul Gaultier and Givenchy. Though this season I am, of course, very much looking forward to Raf Simons at Christian Dior!

Versace, which had been so modern and clean in its lines for couture, seems to have returned to its opulent origins. I must admit that even though it's not quite my taste the play on patchwork on the shorter numbers and the sinuous lines of the collection are as beautiful and striking as they are sexy. I also enjoyed the first hint at the Atelier Versace jewellery line that the house launched yesterday as well  – I can't wait to see it in full!

In attendance at the show were such verious guests like Jessica Alba, who rocked a leather and studs Versace LBD number, M.I.A, who would have made Gianni himself proud in her baroque Versace look, and Anna Wintour, who chose to wear FW12 Prada because... she's Anna Wintour. Franca was accompanied by two of my favourite people in fashion, the ever sophisticated Harry and Peter Brant.

What do you make of the collection?

Getty

Best Dressed of the Weekend: Sonam Kapoor & Diane Kruger kill it!
Getty

The Cannes Film Festival closed last night with the premiere of 'Therese Desqueyroux'. I was hoping that Diane Kruger, who has totally killed it day after day this year, would have a finale dress worth waiting for. And I wasn't disappointed – she wore a stunning Christian Dior Couture dress. I loved the fact that she wore it with the panniers, which give it a bit of 18th century drama.

My other favourite, who I didn't expect to see in Cannes this year, was Sonam Kapoor. I have been a big fan of her style for a while now. There is a certain Je-ne-sais-quoi in the way she wears clothes that I simply adore. Yesterday she rocked two dresses. First, a Pre-Fall'12 Alexander McQueen that she wore with a super flattering hairdo and beautiful make up. And later she slipped into a hot red velvet Dolce & Gabbana with matching shoes and a beaded hairband intertwined in her braid. Looking at her is like being transported to a glamorous time of elegant flamboyance.

I didn't want to do a poll this week because it would break my heart to choose between my two ladies but feel free to choose your favourite in the comments section below!

Getty

From left to right: Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Atelier Versace, Chanel.
Vogue.fr

The last edition of Haute Couture that closed yesterday was, in my opinion, one of the best of the last few years. I was deeply disappointed by Valentino. Last season it seemed like they were finally going in the right direction but all we have seen this week were all the same dresses they have been producing for the last couple of years, only in different palettes. I think it's time to get the talks of a substitute for Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo cracking.
Otherwise I am thrilled with what's been sent down the runway. The return of Atelier Versace lived up to its expectations. I would probably say it's been my favourite collection of the whole week. What Donatella did with the metallic panels and the shape of the body was superb.
I also particularly loved the high-and-low play that Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier had in their collections. Gaultier's "polo shirt" dress and varsity jacket look were an innovative take on current punk rock that was perfectly suited to the Amy Winehouse theme on the catwalk. What was most interesting about Tisci is how he managed to incorporate most of the elements he has made iconic on the Givenchy mainline –stars, studs, luxury sportswear garments– and how he mixed them with his take on the traditional Indian wedding jewellery. Although the most remarkable about his collection is the craftsmanship, especially on the individually sewn pieces of crocodile onto silk.
Chanel was more about the extraordinary setting (a catwalk that looked like a plain inside the Petit Palais) than about the innovation of the clothes. Everything was beautiful and very... like Karl had designed the Pan American uniform. My favourite thing about the collection were the bejewelled tights, which created a magical effect with the dresses.

From left to right: Armani Privé, Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab
Courtesy of Armani, Vogue.fr

I am a huge fan of what Mr Armani is doing for the Privé line. His last collections have had great success on the red carpet and I feel like he's on a roll. His lime green haute couture collection was spotless, sculptural and ultra modern. Lime green is one of my favourite colours (as you can tell by some of the font on my blog and Twitter) so this is right up my street.
There was a bit of Dior in the latest Giambattista Valli collection. I loved his take on the "bar jacket" but I thought he failed (in lack of a better word) to create that fantasy that he normally brings to all of his collections. However, I did appreciate looks like the above where we saw a tougher side to him, I wish there had been more of it.
Elie Saab was my pleasant surprise of the season. It's almost like they knew Valentino was going to disappoint and decided to take the spotlight. The entire collection was incredibly beautiful and dreamy. They did a lot of see-through but in such a refined feminine way you are only half aware. And and I am absolutely positive we are going to see 80% of this collection all over the red carpet in the next few months.

Dior Haute Couture SS12: Should Bill Gaytten go after all?
Vogue.fr

Over the last few months we have read endless rumours concerning the future of Dior's creative direction. The truth is that I was first weary of Bill Gaytten's work at the house but the prospect of Marc Jacobs taking over wasn't exactly a solution for me. I didn't want Raf Simons to become creative director either because he would do a much better job at YSL when the time comes. And Riccardo Tisci is way too valuable at Givenchy.

After seeing the latest couture collection that Gaytten sent down the catwalk I must say I am no longer worried. Neither do I want a substitute for him. It takes a hell of a long time to actually know a brand like Dior inside out –after all, together with Chanel, they're the last couture house. Gaytten also has in his favour all the time working along John Galliano, who I will forever consider a genius. He has done with Dior something we hadn't seen since the times of Christian himself: wearability. There was a quiet grandeur and beauty in the simplicity of the clothes. The New Look and the 'Bar Jacket' were there in a contemporary way –be it by see-through chiffons or tech croc fabrics. Even the crinolines had evaporated but left mark in the flowing skirt of an asymmetric number.

What are your thoughts on the Dior saga?

Atelier Versace SS12: Four gowns made for the Oscars
Vogue.fr

The SS12 Haute Couture started off today in Paris with the much anticipated (I was très excited indeed) return of Atelier Versace to the schedule. Everyone was going mad over the collection this morning on twitter, and now I can see why!

The January edition of couture is also very exciting because it's where we get to see a lot of gowns that are likely to end strolling down the Oscars red carpet. In fact, some of my favourite red carpet moments have happened thanks to Versace. And so I have decided to pick the four dresses that I think are more likely to end up making it to the Oscars on February 26th. I can totally see Jessica Alba in the orange number, Rooney Mara in the lime green or the strapless grey and champagne gown, and Charlize Theron in the powder lilac with the metallic detailing.

Which was your favourite Atelier Versace gown?

Zimbio, Style.com

I'm not posting about Anne Hathaway's look for the White Fairytale Love Ball because I liked it. I thought it was a big mess in the shape of a sparkly meringue. I am more interested on talking about the dress, regardless of how Anne wore it.

If you have watched 'Valentino, the Last Emperor' and, like me, you are fans of the film (documentary-wise it's a lot more honest than 'The September Issue') you might have realised that Anne's dress is the one from Garavani's s/s06 Couture collection over which he throws a fit in the film.
Valentino had intentionally left those gaps between the strips of sparkly ruffles and his team advised him to add a few more because it looked unfinished, with which he disagreed. I tried to find the clip but all I could find an extract in the film's trailer. It only lasts for a couple of seconds from minute 1:05 but it's there.
The dress stayed the way Garavani originally wanted (who would dare to say otherwise) and that's how Anne wore it. And anecdote aside, I just don't see the big deal about the dress. Do you?

Zimbio, Nowfashion.com

Yesterday, on my post for Harper's Bazaar España, I wondered who had designed the dress that Charlotte Casiraghi wore to his uncle's wedding reception.

I then toyed with the idea that it might be Valentino because I highly doubted it was Chanel at all. But now the mystery is resolved.

Gaimbattista Valli unveiled his first ever Haute Couture collection only a few minutes ago in Paris and Charlotte's dress was one of the last ones to walk the runway. Both dresses are absolutely identical and they both include the cape I'm so keen on. The only difference is Charlotte's belt, my favourite part of her accessories, which was borrowed from a different look from the collection. The red number from the catwalk show actually finds inspiration from an unexpected place: the traditional attire worn by the cardinals of the Catholic church. The designer did a sexy take on this robe and even included the traditional skullhat.

Oscars 2011: Less is more

I am rather disappointed with this year's Oscar red carpet looks. I was surprised not only not to find Angelina, Charlize Theron and Diane Kruger amongst the guests but also to see Natalie Portman and Gwyneth Paltrow in very bland dresses. Luckily, one can always count on Cate Blanchett to save the night. She was unarguably the best dressed at the Oscars in an incredible lilac and neon yellow beaded Haute Couture dress fresh of the Givenchy SS11 runway. She always makes such edgy choices that she wears with incredible taste. Number two on my ranking is very unexpected even for myself. Amy Adams chose the right shape of dress with a sexy back slit and covered neckline all covered in L'Wren Scott navy sequins. The choice of colour was perfect for her skin tone (for once) as were the jade, diamond and emerald jewels.

Third on the list is Mila Kunis, who had been building up to this moment. She saved this stunning lilac and nude lace Elie Saab number, which was made grand and occasion-appropriate by the glamourous hair-do and the smoky eyes. I loved everything about her and was happy to see her having such a great moment. And lastly, one of my favourite girls. Michelle Williams has been having some up and downs over the last few months but she made it clear that the only thing a girl needs is some Chanel Haute Couture. I loved how they turned the original dress into a body-con beaded masterpiece and how she relied on a good haircut and light make up.

On a different note, I need to point out Anne Hathaway's style throughout the show. For the red carpet she wore a red Valentino from 2002, when Garavani was still in charge, and even though she looked stunning there was something not quite right, which is why she wasn't on my best dressed list. However, there were two looks she wore during the Oscars that did out her here. The first was a Lanvin tuxedo, which she wore with a ponytail and Ryan Atwood sparkly pumps. And the second was an Amarni Privé number from the Haute Couture SS11 collection. Giulia and I were thrilled she wore it as we had predicted she'd wear it a few weeks before. Who was your favourite?

I'm off.

[Pictures: JustJared.buzznet.com, Celebrity-Gossip.net]

Grammys 2011: Couture frenzy

I never thought I would be choosing the Grammys red carpet choices over the BAFTAs'. The British red carpet usually delivers the best subtly grand looks but this year there was little excitement in the wardrobe department. Over in LA, however, everyone donned the best of the best. We saw, at least, four or five Haute Couture pieces from the SS11 collections shown in Paris only a couple of weeks ago. My favourite by a mile was Florence (sans la machine) in Givenchy couture. I daresay she even looked cooler in it than Carine Roitfeld, who wore it in NYC for the AmfAR gala. Florence already caught my attention two weeks ago when she appeared on Gossip Girl. There is little room for improvement once you wear Givenchy couture but if she keeps this up I'll soon be a fan.

Rihanna, whose still I'm still loving, wore not one but two couture gowns last night. The first was a SS11 Jean Paul Gaultier, which on the catwalk looked a little like a wedding dress but it was perfect for Ri-Ri, who refrained from accessorising it. Good choice. The second gown belonged to Christian Dior's FW10 couture collection, one of my favourite ones of the last few seasons. I really liked the fact that they made it a little sexier by lifting the front chiffon and pansies print.

The other attendees in couture were Nicole Kidman, who also wore SS11 Jean Paul Gaultier, and Nicki Minaj also in Givenchy. Who was your favourite?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, JustJared.buzznet.com]

Haute Couture SS11: Two looks

Haute Couture's quality changes almost drastically from season to season like harvests of wine. Last season we got some really good bottles but mostly quite average ones. This year, however, was the kind of year that you remember and ask for at restaurants. While I still think that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are yet to completely define the focus of their whole inherited (kinda) Valentino Empire. Their last HC collection was as promising as anyone new to the business can get. This year I quite expected grandeur but we got romanticism and melancholy instead, which is not necessarily bad. The show was very clearly divided in two parts —the first, consisting of girly cocktail and day dresses that tied the line with last season and the second, of flowy gowns as a second skin. Ruffles at the neck were almost Victorian reminiscences, which contrasted with the omnipresence of see-through materials for a refined touch of sexiness.

Jean Paul Gaultier continues to outdo himself, which I find extraordinary, especially when it comes to couture. His last collection, inspired by Jessica Rabbit, was clever and fashion forward yet reminiscing of the 20's. This year the main influence was Punk —introduced by rebel mohawks, black drapery and ragged pieces. The critics have applauded this collection and repeatedly talked about how dry his previous lines had been and how JPG has got his mojo back. I completely agree but I think that process of mojo-reclaiming started last season. And just like Chanel, I love the separates because they look so exquisite and we rarely get such RTW usuals at an Haute Couture show.

Which show has been your favourite?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Le Chanel Couture jean

After being surprisingly awed by Alexis Mabille, slightly disappointed by Christian Dior and half amazed and half baffled by Armani Privé it came as a relief that Kaiser Karl decided to go back to basics for his Chanel S/S11 Haute Couture collection. Putting aside how admirable it is that he has single-handedly designed a 66-look collection only weeks before his equally broad ready-to-wear line is due out, what I was most stunned by the subtlety of its richness. Most particularly by the jeans. It seems ever so wonderful and brilliant to me that a house such as Chanel would make the epitome of casual wear in a way that qualifies as Couture. Forget your Japanese denim, none other than Chanel's is better made. The light blue and pink wash and the button detailing at the bottom make them extremely timeless and classy but there is also a certain contemporary aspect to them. I'm definitely expecting Emmanuelle Alt and Géraldine Saglio, perhaps even Alexa Chung (and, oh lord, Anna Wintour in jeans?!) very soon!

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Fit for a Queen?

I promise this is not the first of many royal wedding-oriented posts. I'm not crazy about this kind of events. However, the fact that WWD devoted one of this week's issues to try and figure out what Kate Middleton will wear made me feel like the topic might have the fashion credentials to appear on the blog. Everyone from Lagerfeld and Valentino to Angela Missoni and Peter Copping have sent their wedding dress suggestions to the famous magazine. And here I thought a British royal would have to wear a British designer... How amazing would it be if she wore a white trench with a trail by Christopher Bailey? Haha. Personally, I wouldn't find it outrageous if she would actually go for Chanel or Valentino. They've both shown innovative takes on the wedding dress on their last Haute Couture collections. Kaiser Karl suggests a Victorian inspiration but I dare to disagree. I feel like Kate Middleton epitomises the contemporary unfussy royal who'd never wear a cape or a crown and who'd wear lots of Céline. I could, however, easily picture her in one of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's HC wedding options. Perhaps something halfway between their minimal take and Garavani's slightly whimsical design.

I was especially surprised by two of the other designs inside the WWD royal issue. I'm not sure whether it was Frida Giannini who sketched Gucci's wedding dress. If she did, I am disappointed by how boring and slightly amateur it looks. Although there is something somehow interesting about the very minimal design, which looks like it would suit Kate perfectly. The other surprise, a more pleasant one, was Peter Copping's option chez Nina Ricci. I love the idea of layers of slightly ruffled materials with a gap halfway down (maybe lace) and the fussier top. It seems extraordinary enough for a world-relevant event  yet somewhat subtle for a usually quite adorn-oriented brand.

If I had to vote for one of the designs right now I would most probably vote for Valentino Garavani's design. Which one would you vote for? See the rest here.
I'm off.

[Pictures: WWD.com, Style.com]

Same Couture, different takes

Let me first apologise for posting another editorial-rant (just coined the term) but, you see, I am flying back to Madrid for the weekend today and I 'm not sure if I'll be able to post anything else today —Collage Sunday is still on, though. Besides, I wanted to share these two editorials with you guys and today seemed like the perfect occasion.
The first one, "Orlando", is from YO Dona, one of my two favourite Spanish newspaper supplement magazines. I used to read it every Saturday at my grandma's while she finished preparing lunch. They have very good taste but they're often too safe. This editorial, while not being too daring, is quite edgy for the publication, which is part of why I like it. The other reason why I do is because, even though it has taken Dior's inspiration too literally, the slightly Marie Antoinette theme works extremely well with all the pieces and it helps build up the drama of the Couture.
The second, titled "Meisterwerke", belongs to the October issue of German Vogue. I was also surprised to find such a great shoot in Vogue Deutsch, as they don't often push the envelope too much. In their editorial, contrary to what YO Dona did, they approach HC from a really down-to-earth perspective. I think this works particularly well because Anja Rubik stands for that sort of earthiness, if you will. Together, the two editorials make a beautiful contrast representing what Haute Couture traditionally represented and the way it's moving forward.

I'm off.

[Pictures: TFS]

HC: Haute Carey

It has been almost a year since I bought American Vogue for the last time. For years, I was the biggest fan and never missed an issue but it started to make me less and less excited and so I stopped buying it. Last year's October issue caught my attention because it had Michelle Williams on the cover (I have a thing for short-haired blondes, you see). But even that issue didn't quite hit 'it' for me. Which is why I couldn't help it but smile when I first saw Carey Mulligan in Haute Couture Chanel on the cover. The shoot, styled by Grace Coddington and photographed by Peter Lindbergh, is entirely Haute Couture but there is an ease and grace to it that only Carey could achieve. I also love the fact that she is wearing the same find of flamenco hat in every picture and how much she reminds me of a hybrid between Edie Sedgwick and Audrey Hepburn.

I am still not fond of Chanel's HC collection but I'll admit that it works on Carey although it doesn't look quite so October, right? I did love seeing my favourite 'pansy' (Christian Dior) and 'bow' (Valentino) dresses on her. And I am very much curious to find out who the red origami jacket is by, I love it!
Do you buy US Vogue?

I'm off.

[Pictures: JustJared.buzznet.com, Style.com]