From left to right: Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Atelier Versace, Chanel.
Vogue.fr

The last edition of Haute Couture that closed yesterday was, in my opinion, one of the best of the last few years. I was deeply disappointed by Valentino. Last season it seemed like they were finally going in the right direction but all we have seen this week were all the same dresses they have been producing for the last couple of years, only in different palettes. I think it's time to get the talks of a substitute for Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo cracking.
Otherwise I am thrilled with what's been sent down the runway. The return of Atelier Versace lived up to its expectations. I would probably say it's been my favourite collection of the whole week. What Donatella did with the metallic panels and the shape of the body was superb.
I also particularly loved the high-and-low play that Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier had in their collections. Gaultier's "polo shirt" dress and varsity jacket look were an innovative take on current punk rock that was perfectly suited to the Amy Winehouse theme on the catwalk. What was most interesting about Tisci is how he managed to incorporate most of the elements he has made iconic on the Givenchy mainline –stars, studs, luxury sportswear garments– and how he mixed them with his take on the traditional Indian wedding jewellery. Although the most remarkable about his collection is the craftsmanship, especially on the individually sewn pieces of crocodile onto silk.
Chanel was more about the extraordinary setting (a catwalk that looked like a plain inside the Petit Palais) than about the innovation of the clothes. Everything was beautiful and very... like Karl had designed the Pan American uniform. My favourite thing about the collection were the bejewelled tights, which created a magical effect with the dresses.

From left to right: Armani Privé, Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab
Courtesy of Armani, Vogue.fr

I am a huge fan of what Mr Armani is doing for the Privé line. His last collections have had great success on the red carpet and I feel like he's on a roll. His lime green haute couture collection was spotless, sculptural and ultra modern. Lime green is one of my favourite colours (as you can tell by some of the font on my blog and Twitter) so this is right up my street.
There was a bit of Dior in the latest Giambattista Valli collection. I loved his take on the "bar jacket" but I thought he failed (in lack of a better word) to create that fantasy that he normally brings to all of his collections. However, I did appreciate looks like the above where we saw a tougher side to him, I wish there had been more of it.
Elie Saab was my pleasant surprise of the season. It's almost like they knew Valentino was going to disappoint and decided to take the spotlight. The entire collection was incredibly beautiful and dreamy. They did a lot of see-through but in such a refined feminine way you are only half aware. And and I am absolutely positive we are going to see 80% of this collection all over the red carpet in the next few months.

Dior Haute Couture SS12: Should Bill Gaytten go after all?
Vogue.fr

Over the last few months we have read endless rumours concerning the future of Dior's creative direction. The truth is that I was first weary of Bill Gaytten's work at the house but the prospect of Marc Jacobs taking over wasn't exactly a solution for me. I didn't want Raf Simons to become creative director either because he would do a much better job at YSL when the time comes. And Riccardo Tisci is way too valuable at Givenchy.

After seeing the latest couture collection that Gaytten sent down the catwalk I must say I am no longer worried. Neither do I want a substitute for him. It takes a hell of a long time to actually know a brand like Dior inside out –after all, together with Chanel, they're the last couture house. Gaytten also has in his favour all the time working along John Galliano, who I will forever consider a genius. He has done with Dior something we hadn't seen since the times of Christian himself: wearability. There was a quiet grandeur and beauty in the simplicity of the clothes. The New Look and the 'Bar Jacket' were there in a contemporary way –be it by see-through chiffons or tech croc fabrics. Even the crinolines had evaporated but left mark in the flowing skirt of an asymmetric number.

What are your thoughts on the Dior saga?

Atelier Versace SS12: Four gowns made for the Oscars
Vogue.fr

The SS12 Haute Couture started off today in Paris with the much anticipated (I was très excited indeed) return of Atelier Versace to the schedule. Everyone was going mad over the collection this morning on twitter, and now I can see why!

The January edition of couture is also very exciting because it's where we get to see a lot of gowns that are likely to end strolling down the Oscars red carpet. In fact, some of my favourite red carpet moments have happened thanks to Versace. And so I have decided to pick the four dresses that I think are more likely to end up making it to the Oscars on February 26th. I can totally see Jessica Alba in the orange number, Rooney Mara in the lime green or the strapless grey and champagne gown, and Charlize Theron in the powder lilac with the metallic detailing.

Which was your favourite Atelier Versace gown?