From left to right: Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Atelier Versace, Chanel.
Vogue.fr

The last edition of Haute Couture that closed yesterday was, in my opinion, one of the best of the last few years. I was deeply disappointed by Valentino. Last season it seemed like they were finally going in the right direction but all we have seen this week were all the same dresses they have been producing for the last couple of years, only in different palettes. I think it's time to get the talks of a substitute for Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo cracking.
Otherwise I am thrilled with what's been sent down the runway. The return of Atelier Versace lived up to its expectations. I would probably say it's been my favourite collection of the whole week. What Donatella did with the metallic panels and the shape of the body was superb.
I also particularly loved the high-and-low play that Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier had in their collections. Gaultier's "polo shirt" dress and varsity jacket look were an innovative take on current punk rock that was perfectly suited to the Amy Winehouse theme on the catwalk. What was most interesting about Tisci is how he managed to incorporate most of the elements he has made iconic on the Givenchy mainline –stars, studs, luxury sportswear garments– and how he mixed them with his take on the traditional Indian wedding jewellery. Although the most remarkable about his collection is the craftsmanship, especially on the individually sewn pieces of crocodile onto silk.
Chanel was more about the extraordinary setting (a catwalk that looked like a plain inside the Petit Palais) than about the innovation of the clothes. Everything was beautiful and very... like Karl had designed the Pan American uniform. My favourite thing about the collection were the bejewelled tights, which created a magical effect with the dresses.

From left to right: Armani Privé, Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab
Courtesy of Armani, Vogue.fr

I am a huge fan of what Mr Armani is doing for the Privé line. His last collections have had great success on the red carpet and I feel like he's on a roll. His lime green haute couture collection was spotless, sculptural and ultra modern. Lime green is one of my favourite colours (as you can tell by some of the font on my blog and Twitter) so this is right up my street.
There was a bit of Dior in the latest Giambattista Valli collection. I loved his take on the "bar jacket" but I thought he failed (in lack of a better word) to create that fantasy that he normally brings to all of his collections. However, I did appreciate looks like the above where we saw a tougher side to him, I wish there had been more of it.
Elie Saab was my pleasant surprise of the season. It's almost like they knew Valentino was going to disappoint and decided to take the spotlight. The entire collection was incredibly beautiful and dreamy. They did a lot of see-through but in such a refined feminine way you are only half aware. And and I am absolutely positive we are going to see 80% of this collection all over the red carpet in the next few months.

Haute Couture SS11: Two looks

Haute Couture's quality changes almost drastically from season to season like harvests of wine. Last season we got some really good bottles but mostly quite average ones. This year, however, was the kind of year that you remember and ask for at restaurants. While I still think that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are yet to completely define the focus of their whole inherited (kinda) Valentino Empire. Their last HC collection was as promising as anyone new to the business can get. This year I quite expected grandeur but we got romanticism and melancholy instead, which is not necessarily bad. The show was very clearly divided in two parts —the first, consisting of girly cocktail and day dresses that tied the line with last season and the second, of flowy gowns as a second skin. Ruffles at the neck were almost Victorian reminiscences, which contrasted with the omnipresence of see-through materials for a refined touch of sexiness.

Jean Paul Gaultier continues to outdo himself, which I find extraordinary, especially when it comes to couture. His last collection, inspired by Jessica Rabbit, was clever and fashion forward yet reminiscing of the 20's. This year the main influence was Punk —introduced by rebel mohawks, black drapery and ragged pieces. The critics have applauded this collection and repeatedly talked about how dry his previous lines had been and how JPG has got his mojo back. I completely agree but I think that process of mojo-reclaiming started last season. And just like Chanel, I love the separates because they look so exquisite and we rarely get such RTW usuals at an Haute Couture show.

Which show has been your favourite?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Dressing Jessica Rabbit

Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture like is, without any kind of doubt, the best of all shown in Paris for the FW10 season. Givenchy was definitely a stunner but JPG's collection definitely blew me away. There was a lot of 50's silhouettes slightly evoking a 20's style —tube feathered skirts, suggestive lame layered with gauze and snow white fur. A richness in materials and fabrics that makes one a little shocked upon finding the long-sleveed, high-neck leather tops that are almost latex-like and seem to have escaped from 'The Avengers'.
Hairdos and turbans definitely stole the show. They reminded one of Marc Jacobs' FW09 collection but with a difference; Gaultier's pointed forward, for his woman is a determined one. There was also a certain influence of 30's pin-up —silhouettes hugged and accentuated the hips but the waists weren't as narrow, this is modern sexiness.

As I soon as I saw the picture of Jessica Stam in the see-through top under the white fur stole and the red lips there was 'someone' I couldn't get out of my mind —Jessica Rabbit. If anyone were ever to make a human version of Roger's wife she would have to wear Jean Paul Gaultier. In fact, Dita Von Teese would be a good candidate to cast as Jessica Rabbit and she already walked for Gaultier. She could wear the sophisticated 'bunnie' inspired turban to elegant soirees to match Roger's ears, no?

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

une affaire Française

Exactly two days ago the most important fashion news alerts warned their subscribers of Jean Paul Gaultier's departure from Hermès. I don't think he was dismissed because of lack of success but because Hermès is in desperate need of an injection of youth. Which is why the French brand has chosen Christophe Lemaire to fill his shoes; a younger designer with an art background twice winner of the ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Développement des Artes de la Mode) award. I find this choice ever so clever. Lemaire is renowned in the industry for revamping Lacoste's style, making it relevant in terms of current fashion. He has been creative director of the famous French sports brand since 2000. In 2007 he created his very own name-sake brand which showed a more profound vision of fashion and which took most of its inspiration from the Japanese style of the 70's to dress men and women.

One could think his two jobs at his own label and at Lacoste incongruous. The truth is that is it precisely this combination of extraordinary sportswear making skills and his mastery of tailoring and different materials and understanding of heritage that makes him a perfect fit for Hermés. Even certain, unarguable, similarities with Gaultier's previous work for the brand prove this right. I cannot wait to see what Lemaire has in store for S/S11.
I'm off.

[Sources: nytimes.com, ChristopheLemaire.com, telegraph.co.uk, Style.com, leFigaro.fr]

the last day

As it's become some sort of tradition, Marc Jacob's creations for Louis Vuitton were amongst the other designers' that closed Paris Fashion Week and the month of international fashion extravaganza. Jacob's joined the group of designers that took the most famous silhouette of the 1930's and forwarded it into our time making a stop somewhere between the 50's and the 60's. Comparisons, hence, of Louis Vuitton and previously shown collections is unavoidable. However, the success of similar viewpoints such as Prada seem somewhat incomparable to Marc Jacob's. The American designer resumes his praise-hoarding more for the fame of his name than for his work. But then again, we are becoming quite acquainted with that phenomenon watching it happen to Lagerfeld and Galliano.
Jean Paul Gaultier, who somehow removes himself from the fashion circus of fame, delivered yet another take on the Hermès classicism. The references to a Saville Row world are inescapable as is the fact that Gaultier tackles the problem of creating recession-concious garments that still stir the audience and push the brand forward.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Once again, Miuccia's diffusion brand created FW10 instant hits. Miu Miu is steadily becoming a cult brand that doesn't have to hide embarrassed behind its older sister anymore. Miu Miu FW10 was proudly sixties, the time of "minis", bold colours and leg, lots of leg.
I'm off.

dress the GUILDS

You have been seeing several S/S 2009 menswear posts throughout the last few weeks and I am quite sure you will agree they are remarkably interesting to say the least. It seems men’s fashion is on its way to be considered as an equal in the eyes of womenswear. Alas, it might still be a little while until that moment comes but in the meantime we can enjoy the process of the little baby growing up to be a handsome (stylish) man.

S/S’09 is a season for the fashioning of guilds. Bizarre as it sounds; if you have a look at the pictures below it will actually make total sense. Everyone from cowboys to fishermen can experience a trendy summer and we can copy.

Modernity filters down to peasant fashion made in Burberry. Necklines go down and cardigans elongate to cover a bit more of tailored and denim pants. The thinnest fabrics appear in earth colours, cut in comfortable and well-looking fits. Rain hats are renewed to culminate the looks.

Gaultier put together the sort of collection that seems not only nuts but also impossible to pull off and then, when looked at for a second time, configures perfectly in your brain until you come to love it. Chequers and marine striped make an appearance on t-shirts and blazers but also on socks. Just like most of the other summer’09 collections Gaultier plays with layering rolling up jacket sleeves and crops pants to show the shirts and socks underneath.

It looks like hats are the next big thing for next summer. Ann Demeulemeester takes them to the next level, taking us back to Salem times when cheese-makers spent long ours under the shining sun. Trousers shorten up while sheer and baggy shirts make their way down to the knee.

Yes, it might seem you’re looking at creations from the hand of Sir Paul Smith. Don’t be fooled. Junya Watanabe is responsible for dressing the modern ice-cream men. Blue and red striped blazers are the clear protagonists although the most brilliant of features is the way Watanabe plays around with white and different shades of beige. Pants widen roll up and, again, hats get their way. Cream-colour trilby hats are everywhere.

Fishermen are not forgotten. Miharayasuhiro uses sailor vests over white shirts and bait hooks on tank tops. The latter have a certain medieval air, like a revival of the chain mail. Trousers starting as jeans and soon transforming into black chinos are my favourite thing about this collection.

 

This finishes up the posts about S/S 2009 menswear. Hope you have enjoyed them.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

PARISIAN highlights

Alright, I spoke too soon. As I saw Paris Fashion Week fade away it seemed quite clear I couldn’t possibly keep my word —I will not refrain from posting about the Haute Couture shows. However, I will stick to my shameful knowledge in the field as an excuse not to comment the catwalk and only show my favourites. So behold.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

Which of the above would you wear? Why?

Also, does anybody else find Chanel's collection quite explicitly dedicated to Queen of Fashion, Anna Wintour?

I'm off.

IRON woman

I am currently suffering from a pleasant fever, it's called the Gwyneth fever. I am loving everything about her lately; her über-cute american accent when she speaks Spanish, her short hair, her endless legs, that smile... I guess everything was self-explanatory. Ever since she decided to get rid of half of her golden locks she has been dazzling me with every in and out of the red carpet spotting.

It all started right before she paid her visit to the hair salon, with YSL grey dress that I adore. To the right, the current Paltrow in white Stella McCartney, rocking sheer, blazer and booties!

I can't spot this shade of pink without remembering Rachel Bilson in Chanel. However, I think Gwyneth looks lovely in this, I love the hair and accessories. To the side, a printed wrap dress I first thought ugly and now intriguing; she makes it look rock-chic.

Two of her last picks I found very interesting. That short Sonia Rykiel dress with the face in it would have probably been the last thing I chose, but she pulls it off, looking chic with a bit of an edge. I'm sure her other dress, to the right, made you think of Marion Cotillard's Gaultier at the Oscars, only white; well, Jean Paul designed this one too. She looks amazing in it, although I could totally see Cate Blanchett kicking some butt in it!

She is the boss when it comes to black. The Preen dress (LBD?) looks fa-bu-lo-us on her and those ultra-high Dsquared2 are so damn sexy! To the right, another cute black dress with a black (Burberry?) coat and A-MAZING ankle boots!

Last, my favourtie look so far, a casual one. Her Stella McCartney blazer (rolled up sleeves, yay!), plain white tee, skinny blue jeans and flat black boots. Perfection, here she comes!

Your favourties?

[Picture credits: JustJared]

I'm off.