Haute Couture SS11: Two looks

Haute Couture's quality changes almost drastically from season to season like harvests of wine. Last season we got some really good bottles but mostly quite average ones. This year, however, was the kind of year that you remember and ask for at restaurants. While I still think that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are yet to completely define the focus of their whole inherited (kinda) Valentino Empire. Their last HC collection was as promising as anyone new to the business can get. This year I quite expected grandeur but we got romanticism and melancholy instead, which is not necessarily bad. The show was very clearly divided in two parts —the first, consisting of girly cocktail and day dresses that tied the line with last season and the second, of flowy gowns as a second skin. Ruffles at the neck were almost Victorian reminiscences, which contrasted with the omnipresence of see-through materials for a refined touch of sexiness.

Jean Paul Gaultier continues to outdo himself, which I find extraordinary, especially when it comes to couture. His last collection, inspired by Jessica Rabbit, was clever and fashion forward yet reminiscing of the 20's. This year the main influence was Punk —introduced by rebel mohawks, black drapery and ragged pieces. The critics have applauded this collection and repeatedly talked about how dry his previous lines had been and how JPG has got his mojo back. I completely agree but I think that process of mojo-reclaiming started last season. And just like Chanel, I love the separates because they look so exquisite and we rarely get such RTW usuals at an Haute Couture show.

Which show has been your favourite?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Le Chanel Couture jean

After being surprisingly awed by Alexis Mabille, slightly disappointed by Christian Dior and half amazed and half baffled by Armani Privé it came as a relief that Kaiser Karl decided to go back to basics for his Chanel S/S11 Haute Couture collection. Putting aside how admirable it is that he has single-handedly designed a 66-look collection only weeks before his equally broad ready-to-wear line is due out, what I was most stunned by the subtlety of its richness. Most particularly by the jeans. It seems ever so wonderful and brilliant to me that a house such as Chanel would make the epitome of casual wear in a way that qualifies as Couture. Forget your Japanese denim, none other than Chanel's is better made. The light blue and pink wash and the button detailing at the bottom make them extremely timeless and classy but there is also a certain contemporary aspect to them. I'm definitely expecting Emmanuelle Alt and Géraldine Saglio, perhaps even Alexa Chung (and, oh lord, Anna Wintour in jeans?!) very soon!

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]