M vs. M

If you regularly check soVIPzone you know I am quite fond of comparing womens and menswear. I think it has something to do with the fact that women's clothes are always the main focus in fashion and we are somehow alienated. So I'm constantly trying to prove that we deserve our share of attention too. And this is yet another reason to support that. Isn't it fascinating that Marc Jacobs has done exactly the same for men and trousers in FW10 as Miuccia Prada did for women in SS09? I do think so. Now, whether we'll see any men actually wearing this double leg or not is a different question.

[Picture credits: Style.com, GQ.com]

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cuire Haute Couture

The recipe for Valentino FW10 Haute Couture:

1. Chop up some vintage Balenciaga. Two parts of FW08 and one of SS09. Stir fry for a couple of minutes.

2. Add a whole Hervé Léger FW08 collection and cook until it's nude.

3. Season with Rodarte SS09 and Stella McCartney SS10 to taste.

4. Decorate with a dash of Valentino SS10 (RTW) for an odd after taste.

Serve on a Parisian plate and ready!

[Picture credit: Style.com]

Would you ever eat this?

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ancient mode

Every Christmas I seem to find something very special in fragrance ads. They certainly don't do their job —I never even consider buying essence of this or eau of that— but I literally can't stop looking. I love the one for L'Eau Ambrée by Prada. The first time I saw it (the same happened with the SS09 print advert) I couldn't stop thinking about the frontons of the buildings in ancient Rome and Greece. I've always loved how artists managed to sculpt every figure in such detail that the most minute pleat and wrinkle weren't missed. And the whole group in the composition had the shape of an isosceles triangle so that it would fit in the top structure. Finally, I just looked at a few collections that took inspiration from the ancient Rome and Greece —be it from the art or otherwise.
[Picture credits: Style.com, Prada]

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play with FIRE

After being absent for almost a month I have finally managed to be back. I am happy to say I will now have enough time to devote to soVIPzone, so stick around. While I gather materials and come up ideas for all the juicy posts coming up, have a look at Miu Miu's S/S'09 campaign featuring Katie Holmes. I could not be happier about the choice. Ever since Katie became Mrs. Cruise and started pumping up her style I have been daily amazed. Let's hope this is only the beginning of new fashionable surprises.

[Pictures credit: Celebrity-Gossip.net]

Lush, huh?

Thank you again to those of you who still stop by and comment even when there are no updates!

I'm off.

eternal sunshine of the spotless ACCESSORY, part 2

It is what you all were waiting for, and here it is. The second part of the S/S 2009 accessories special. Stare, dream and comment away!

We are always looking out for the shades of the season, and here they are. And they are also the best homage of Mary-Kate Olsen. Dries Van Noten managed to take ethnic into the future, and in what a way!

Chanel is the quintessential runway to look at when searching for classic that for magnificently on season as well. Their high heels à la Blair Waldorf add a classic with an edge touch and that plastic-like bag will most likely be all over the place.

Next season's Fendi accessories are the best twist for any outfit. Their take on the Hermès Birkin bag and the colourful peep-toe wedges do not seem to go very well together but might be two fantastic options for an edgy summer ensemble.

Giambattista Valli decided not to create something new but to take his very own approach on the classic stiletto shoes. Add interesting colours and fabrics and a little platform and you are on business!

Givenchy keeps following the gothic line that made them one of the top brands this season to create the chicest leather shoes that will make the delights of all those Rock'n'roll lovers out there.

Even though Marc Jacobs colletions for his own brand and Louis Vuitton very much hold hands the latter contained excellent pieces showing the biggest variety of colours, materials and shapes.

Marc Jacobs brought his inspiration from the Louis Vuitton collection into the bags for his own brand. His classic shapes and chains add up to the fresh colours very originally mixed.

Michael Kors not only brought the aviators to the limit but his pattern-mixing for men are nothing but preppy-ly exciting.

A collaboration with Christian Louboutin always pays off and Phillip Lim knows it. The flower-like leather shapes make his shoes the most glamorous item to own next season.

Ralph Lauren came up with a 21st-century Great Gatsby and created beautiful hats and sunglasses made for those romantics like me who dress like back then because they could not live it.

Viktor & Rolf's shoes are not made for just anyone. However, if you are so picky you will only wear unique pieces and you are not afraid to be risky they are most definitely for you.

If sunglasses above are not fit for your taste you might have to look at Yohji Yamamoto's. His shapes are innovative in so many ways but look back at the past instead of into the future unlike must other designers'.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

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eternal sunshine of the spotless ACCESSORY, part I

It is quite a paradox. The deeper I get into fashion the more I like it and the more I want to know more things about it. The more they give me the more I want to be given. Yet at some point during this process I need a rest to quietly sit down and think. New seasons for years that are yet to come are introduced before their predecessors even being, which makes (fashion) life confusing. Nonetheless, I took my chances and made the decision to put together a little S/S'09 accessories special before I find myself too deeply submerged into F/W'08. I have selected my favourites out of as much collections as I could humanly go through in two days —have a look!

Proenza Schouler made me think of a time machine. The Middle Age merges with the Industrial Revolution and the two are seasoned with Lazaro and Jack's very good taste. The result? Extremely stylish metallic and black accessories.

Chunky shoes were away for a while but Dolce & Gabbana want them back. For a little updating they added a fine platform that leaves a hole in the middle of what would have been the wedge. For bags, lots of colour-mixing and unending sequence.

Dior was very much tribal, about Africa. Small versions of fertility goddesses serve as heels and rope-like stripes climb up the ankles from the animal-printed platforms.

Gucci was the ultimate look for the sexy Italian fashionista. Hats are everywhere and their straps match the flowery outfits. Heels go up to unthinkable highs and include bold, shiny fabrics in striking colours.

I always Hermès' innovation within their own little world. Animal prints stick on the sides of hand-luggage and driving gloves are very present adding a rather old-school glamour touch.

Not only Lanvin's silhouettes were stunning but the accessories are undoubtedly intriguing. Crocodile predominates in hues that go from the traditional black to the playful emerald green or yellow. Heels are embroidered and locks decorated with precious-like stones.

The suggestive shoe shapes of Marni already caught my attention a few seasons ago. They keep playing with colours and suede and rather pointy heels. I was also particularly drawn to the very plastic deconstructed flower necklace.

I am becoming fonder of Cavalli as of late. His small but over-decorated accessories are perfect to spring up simple outfits to life.

Wire and chains over high platforms does not sound specially attractive even to the fashion-oriented. However, if the hands of the sisters of Rodarte take part in the design process it is a different story.

Just as it happened with Cavalli I lately like Versace more. Donatella has found a good line to follow and she, too, went for statement accessories that keep great company to clean chic ensembles.

The slight disappointment from Stefano Pilati did not inhibit my adoring of Yves Saint-Laurent's metallurgic shoe-making. Even though I am not quite sure about their wearability.

Zac Posen caught my attention for his bejeweled clutches, over-the-top earrings and futuristic, sharp makeup.

Stay tuned for the second part.

Thoughts?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

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prep your SHOULDERS

Lately, fashion seems to be cutting down on adding layers and accessories and pumping up on new silhouettes and detailing. It is like going back to basics when everything was more about quality cuts and materials and not so much about quantity. This tendency is most noticeable in plenty of Spring/Sumer 2009 collections, specially on shoulder shapes. They have been rounded (Balenciaga), pointed (Balmain, MarcJacobs) and sculptured (Chloé, V&R) resulting in some very innovative forms that only the bravest will wear. But if they do not spread out next summer at least shoulder pads will.
Have a look at what some of the best designers have come up with.







Yay or Nay?


[Pictures credit: Style.com]


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JUMPSUIT fever

After having a look at the pictures below you will most probably agree that jumpsuits rapidly moved from being that garment which required enormous courage to be worn to the trendiest and most fashion-forward item to wear.

Last summer (2008) Stella McCartney gave us the best possibly made jumpsuit in a sheer flowery print. So I was not extremely surprised when I repeatedly found a reinvention of the piece in her Spring/Summer 2009 collection. However, they follow a different line. The light materials keep being a constant but the colour from flowers is substituted by a creamier, softer palette. Instead of the playful ruffles, lapels as part of a sexy version of a suit. In opposition, there is the very closed at the neck blue satin version.

A dear love of mine for the summer, Etro, excluded their famous crazy prints from the jumpsuits. In a palette very much à la Hermès they make this piece of clothing look comfortable and chic and bohemian in the exact adequate doses. It is sort of a downtown safari look that can work for both a casual beach day or a sophisticated night out.

Chloé chose the detailing in the crafting of jumpsuits as the way to introduce richness in them. Pleating and draping merge in waists and tops and the slightly cropped trousers add a timeless casualness.

For other examples from more S/S09 collections have a look at Diane von Furstemberg's funky fairy look, YSL's tailored piece with short trousers that may look like a skirt, and Alexander McQueen's head to toe jumpsuit jeweled look.

Will they finally filter down to the high street so that we can see them out?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

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dress the GUILDS

You have been seeing several S/S 2009 menswear posts throughout the last few weeks and I am quite sure you will agree they are remarkably interesting to say the least. It seems men’s fashion is on its way to be considered as an equal in the eyes of womenswear. Alas, it might still be a little while until that moment comes but in the meantime we can enjoy the process of the little baby growing up to be a handsome (stylish) man.

S/S’09 is a season for the fashioning of guilds. Bizarre as it sounds; if you have a look at the pictures below it will actually make total sense. Everyone from cowboys to fishermen can experience a trendy summer and we can copy.

Modernity filters down to peasant fashion made in Burberry. Necklines go down and cardigans elongate to cover a bit more of tailored and denim pants. The thinnest fabrics appear in earth colours, cut in comfortable and well-looking fits. Rain hats are renewed to culminate the looks.

Gaultier put together the sort of collection that seems not only nuts but also impossible to pull off and then, when looked at for a second time, configures perfectly in your brain until you come to love it. Chequers and marine striped make an appearance on t-shirts and blazers but also on socks. Just like most of the other summer’09 collections Gaultier plays with layering rolling up jacket sleeves and crops pants to show the shirts and socks underneath.

It looks like hats are the next big thing for next summer. Ann Demeulemeester takes them to the next level, taking us back to Salem times when cheese-makers spent long ours under the shining sun. Trousers shorten up while sheer and baggy shirts make their way down to the knee.

Yes, it might seem you’re looking at creations from the hand of Sir Paul Smith. Don’t be fooled. Junya Watanabe is responsible for dressing the modern ice-cream men. Blue and red striped blazers are the clear protagonists although the most brilliant of features is the way Watanabe plays around with white and different shades of beige. Pants widen roll up and, again, hats get their way. Cream-colour trilby hats are everywhere.

Fishermen are not forgotten. Miharayasuhiro uses sailor vests over white shirts and bait hooks on tank tops. The latter have a certain medieval air, like a revival of the chain mail. Trousers starting as jeans and soon transforming into black chinos are my favourite thing about this collection.

 

This finishes up the posts about S/S 2009 menswear. Hope you have enjoyed them.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.