it's the shoe that counts

Don't ask me why but I have this fixation with women's shoes, specially when they're high. I think it has something to do with the way they (I should probably say you) walk when they're up on the "scaffolding" and how their legs appear to be never-ending. I had a look at Net-a-Porter and Matches and picked out my favourite ones in the muted colours that will work with a variety of outfits. Do you have a favourite?

[Picture credits: Net-a-porter.com, MatchesFashion.com]

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ancient mode

Every Christmas I seem to find something very special in fragrance ads. They certainly don't do their job —I never even consider buying essence of this or eau of that— but I literally can't stop looking. I love the one for L'Eau Ambrée by Prada. The first time I saw it (the same happened with the SS09 print advert) I couldn't stop thinking about the frontons of the buildings in ancient Rome and Greece. I've always loved how artists managed to sculpt every figure in such detail that the most minute pleat and wrinkle weren't missed. And the whole group in the composition had the shape of an isosceles triangle so that it would fit in the top structure. Finally, I just looked at a few collections that took inspiration from the ancient Rome and Greece —be it from the art or otherwise.
[Picture credits: Style.com, Prada]

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winter checklist

At the beginning of every new season, when all the new collections are hitting the stores, I always find a moment to sit down and make note of my must-haves. Many times, of course, I end up not checking all the boxes or finding a seemingly appropriate substitute from the high street. But the list is always there.

Clockwise: Lanvin shoes, Maison Martin Margiela jacket, Timex watch, Burberry snood, Dries Van Noten blazer, Commonwealth Utilities bowtie.

This winter, no man should go without a double-brested cropped blazer. It works as part of a suit and with jeans and t-shirt. Whatever anyone's feelings might be about the Burberry check, I am utterly enamoured of their snood —worn appropriately, it is the perfect touch of sophistication. And let's not forget the bowtie. The one above is the perfect size and the print, the perfect sartorial piece. (But I already have the perfect one —in the soVIP colour of the season by Lanvin).

Clockwise: Toy Watch watch, Burberry Prorsum blazer, Alexander McQueen cardigan, Acne jeans, Dries Van Noten shoes, Paul Smith scarf.

Whatever the reason, I have developed an Acne addiction. Their classic washes and various cuts are always a perfect match. My particular favourite is the Max Le Blue. I am yet to acquire a tweed blazer —perfect for a cottage look or as a coat. Another of my fixations every season is adding to my wardrobe another pair of classic shoes. They just always work.
It was during one of my last visits at Pull Teeth when I realised cone studs were just the right stroke of toughness to any given piece of clothing. I love his customisation of a denim jacket (not to mention the perfect bowtie). As I love Prada's take on the spiky trend.

[Picture credits: BrownsFashion.com, Liberty.co.uk, MatchesFashion.com, Pull Teeth]

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strokes of grandeur

Nicholas Ghesquière has made it again. After consistently pushing the boundaries of the known during the past few seasons he has made of the last Balenciaga collection a fashion feast where subtle genius seems like too much for the eye to take. There are no more futuristic shafts of sci-fi colours or armour-like silhouettes. Instead, Ghesquière strolls between exquisitely wearable prêt-a-porter and indulgent fashion-forward. Skirts, blouses and dresses in chiffon, silk and velvet are combined with elegant hues like bottle green, black and grey with seductive nude details. My favourite? The blue and green high-neck dress with velvet polka dot and draped skirt.

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round LFW

I am not going to have time to update much around here until after Sunday. I am currently doing some intern work at Luella during London Fashion Week and I have anything but spare time. However, I can find a moment to share with all of you one of the top moments of today. I was working at the Luella fashion show this morning and, apart from being mesmerized by Tim Blanks, Kate Lanphear, Scott Schuman, Suzy Menkes and so on, I took a picture with the man of the moment. Fair enough, he is too aware of the fact that he is cool but even so I would like to think I now share some of that coolness. Behold.

Kanye West et moi

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PS. He said my shoes were cool. OM*G!

femme fatale

Derek Lam came up with a striking collection of classics and not-so-much-so reminiscent of the powerful and sensual women from film noir. Click here to read my review of the collection.

[Picture credit: 212DressingRoom.com]

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new GLAMOUR

NYC Fashion Week has provided us with some gems during these times of crisis. Click here for my review of the Joseph Altuzarra collection. An up-and-coming designer that has created highly body-con garments with an understated sensuality.

[Picture credit: Style.com]

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prêt-a-pour-MOI

Even though Men's Fashion Week came and went and the shows occurring at the moment in NYC should be entirely devoted to womenswear, there has been some room for the last of men's collections. I present you with my two favourites and with Antonio Azzuolo, an Italian designer whose creations seem almost custom-made pour moi and my best buddy —Chuck Bass, that is. Have a look.

Sartorial at its best. Elements from different fashion epochs merge to create these extremely up-to-date collection with a touch of Italian cool and exquisite tailoring.

Give me some rolled-up trousers and a semi-loose cardigans and I am on board. Loden Dager was all about simple ensembles brought to life by means of a subtle game of textures and colours. It does feel a bit too springy but there is nothing a good pair of argyle wool socks and a coat cannot mend.

Street style meets nerd. Trousers stay up (wonder how long they are going to keep it up) and waists do the same. Fits loosen up to give that air of illness to the skinny community. The outfits do not thrill me as a whole but as separate pieces the garments are priceless.

[Picture credits: Men.Style.com, AntonioAzzuolo.com]

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american WONDERS

When I started hearing that many fashion houses had decided to call off their bi-annual catwalk shows due to the so-called recession I made a grin of disappointment. But seeing that so far I do not get a sit on the first row anyway it seems like a good way to have the closest thing to a closer look at the clothes. It is almost like staring at clothes mug-shots. Nonetheless, I am quite looking forward to seeing some of my favourite women coming in and out of the tent in Bryant Park. Of all the collections published up until now there have been three that have really caught my eye.

Personally, I am not a big fan of being a colour parade in the winter but Peter Som's collection makes me want to rethink my resolution. The mixture of neon prints seems a little reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's last collection and the shapes make me think of Balenciaga's peplums. However, there is something fresh and new about the outfits and their psychedelic furry companions that simply screams "wear me!".

Jenny Kayne's collection was just stunning. It does not get better than simple and chic and this is both. I can picture Alexa Chung and her sexy voice in most of there ensembles. Geeky and slick, just how I like it.

Although not as impressive as the previous two collections, Rachel Roy's lingerie approach to womenswear seems highly suggestive. The absence of tops and the appearance of bras underneath oversized tailored pieces is something of an elegant sexual nature. I loathe the shoes but I can see in my mind a few of the most stylish celebrities in these.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

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the Milan chapter

Men's Paris Fashion Week kicked off yesterday and new of my reviews for 212 Dressing Room will be coming up. Look out for Dior Homme sometime tomorrow and for Givenchy later on. In the meantime, have a look at Milan's highlights from my favourite shows.

There were plenty of massive knit scarves and jumpers, quite a lot of red and amazingly made suit pieces. Most designers have chosen simpler garments for this time of crisis and so clothes focus more on detail, craftsmanship and original silhouettes resulting in pieces any fashionista will name essentials for his wardrobe.

[Pictures credit: Men.Style.com]

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The Skilful Designer of Fleet Street

His shows grow more and more exciting as seasons go by. Go to 212 Dressing Room for my Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 2009 review.

Hope you enjoy it.

Stay tuned for a Milan recap!

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twisted CHECKS

Burberry’s legion of über-stylish pickpocketers may seem like yet another confirmation of the recession affecting the world but is Christopher Bailey being tremendously realistic or is he perhaps sarcastic? Relaxed silhouettes, a certain minimalism and an air of neat scruffiness take us back to the 18^th century —the time of Oliver Twist.

Just as Dickens did, Bailey leaves his usual intense romanticism in order to portray a more sordid side of the world, that of burglars and vagabonds. Black and grey spread over long coats, trousers and newsboy caps —outfits like out of the British novel. But a ray of optimism breaks through by means of bright coloured lapels and Bailey’s nostalgia of Burberry’s classic checks. More of this juxtaposition is shown in the shape of thick knitwear paired up with light pinstripe suit pants. Neck and chest, which had been previously set free for the spring, now lazily cover up with shirts ending in skinny cravat-like bows and checked neck tubes to protect from the cold.

Crisis or no crisis, one thing is clear, the Burberry man stays a hundred per cent true to his anglophile origins but agilely adapts to the changing world managing to always stay stylish.

Check out my reviews at 212 Dressing Room

[Pictures credit: Men.Style.com]

I'm off.