Cruise 2013: The best bits so far
Style.com

Is it me or have the Resort collections never been this good? We always knew that this and Pre-Fall were the most important collections commercially because they're the ones that stay on the shelves for longer, and hence make the money. But a few years back I was the first one complaining about how bland and pointless they were.

Well, I am changing my tune. Cruise 2013 is full of hits and excellent pieces! Balenciaga's collection was full of great ideas – cleavage cut-outs, hello? But I was especially keen on the footwear. The bow effect Ghesquière created on the bicolour leather boots might just make these as big a hit as his gladiator boots were back for SS08.

I also fell in love with Bottega Veneta. More precisely, with their tracksuits. I can solemnly swear that I have never, nor will I wear a tracksuit outside a gym but these are so cool. There's a 70's vibe to the colours and lines that, together with the nice fabric, makes it chic – there, I said it. These would have been so perfect for Farrah Fawcett in Charlie's Angels.

Michael Kors is doing great stuff at the moment. His Resort collection has this perfect balance between the relaxed relaxed and the super luxe – reluxed? I especially like the gold pieces: lamé, lace and knits that are just timeless.

Milan Fashion Week: FW12 Highlights
Style.com

What Stephanie LaCava wore – LFW Day 2
KnowWear

Last night I attended the (amazing!) Acne show at the end of the day, which I will be posting about soon. And once again I was lucky enough to run into Stephanie LaCava. You should have seen the crowd, running into someone you knew wasn't that easy. So I was very lucky!
Stephanie was looking über cool in a really chunky cropped knit jumper from Balenciaga, which she paired with a plain J. Crew white tee and these sexy leather Bottega Veneta trousers. But, for me, the key of the outfit were the accessories – one of Burberry Prorsum's SS12 raffia hats from the menswear collection and, my favourite, a pair of Aquazzura pumps. If you look closely enough you'll see that the stunning leather stilettos have a thin golden chain that wraps around the ankle twice.



Today I'm attending Antonio Berardi and Burberry Prorsum – So excited! So make sure to keep checking back for updates!

JustJared, Zimbio

I realised over the weekend how little I've posted about celebrity style over the last few weeks. During fashion week I find myself way too excited about what's coming down the catwalk and what the editors are wearing. So I'm making up for it this week. These are my best dressed from the night:

1. Carey Mulligan in Bottega Veneta. I can't wait to see her in costume for 'The Great Gatsby' because of this. This short black number with a 20's is perfectly on trend. I love the super thin straps and the perfect hair.

2. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Emilio Pucci. This embroidered dress looks amazing on her because it accentuates her incredible body and doesn't leave room for any jewellery, which Rosie doesn't need. Who needs diamond earrings when you've got those lips?

3. Emma Stone in Jonathan Saunders. I must admit she made it to the list more because of her emerald earrings and the unbelievable Christian Dior shoes, which for me complete a look that would have otherwise been on the blah side.

4. Michelle Williams in Nina Ricci. I'm not the biggest Nina Ricci fan but I was blown away by this. I love the ease with which Michelle wears everything. And I'm especially keen on the cut-out detail on the neckline.

1. Furla python satchel, 2. Prada python and suede ankle-strap platform pumps, 3. Miu Miu suede chunky ankle boots, 4. Gucci python platform pumps,
5. Chloé crossbody bag, 6. Jimmy Choo suede and snake platform sandals, 7. Gucci small top handle bag

Giulia and I were talking the other day about how we had left accessories on the side lately, which is true. So I endeavoured her to find her favourite bags and shoes from the fall/winter 2011 collections from the Saks.com website. We decided to group them in three of the biggest accessory trends this season –70's, colour blocking and sparkle.

Going through the accessory section of the Saks' website is quite an experience. They have over two thousand shoes and over a thousand bags in stock! You can imagine how long it took us to go through both sections to pick our favourites. But it was sort of fun to see all the range that brands have for this season.
I wanted to start with the 70's because it's my personal favourite. I love the rich colour palette combined with the snakeskin and the suede. I love the colour block items to add a pop of colour during the winter when we all tend to wear so many dark colours. It just looks perfect to put a bright purple shoe with a black trouser! The spark is Giulia's favourite, she really likes her glitter! Miu Miu is obviously the master in that department and I must admit I am really into all these dark glitter that seems a perfectly glamourous choice for an evening look.

Pop of Colour

1. Rochas 'Borsa Rosa', 2. Elizabeth and James strappy leather sandals, 3. Boutique 9 wedge platform pumps, 4. Gucci Huston suede platform pumps,
5. Brian Atwood suede and metal platform pumps, 6. Fendi Silvana top handle bag, 7. Vionnet leather pochette, 8. Bottega Veneta messenger bag

Evening Sparkle

1. Miu Miu crisscross glitter ankle boots, 2. Proenza Schouler glitter pumps, 3. Miu Miu glitter pumps, 4. Anya Hindmarch glitter clutch,
5. Dior glitter and suede t-strap sandals, 6. Halston Heritage Sabrina mesh pouch

* This post is sponsored by Saks Fifth Avenue

JustJared, Vogue.com

I remember seeing Bottega Veneta's gowns at the end of their f/w11 show and thinking not a soul would wear them.

Emma Watson was the first to prove me wrong a few days ago at the New York premiere of the last Happy Potter instalment. From the waist up it was a stunning look. The hair was stunning, the earrings a brilliant choice, and I even liked the bold makeup. The bodice fitted her beautifully but as you look down this gold/bronze taffeta starts to spoil the look.

The idea of rags sewn together to create something beautiful with an unfinished touch is great but I don't think it works on the red carpet. The dress does work in editorials, though. Sarah Jessica Parker wears it in her American Vogue cover story shot by Mario Testino. It might be that the angle and the composition  cover some of the dress' flaws but it does look stunning in the cream living room. Even the colour seems different than on Emma's and it has a nicer shape as it falls onto the floor. Some pieces are just meant to be on the pages of a magazine.

Bold colours & wet hair

Yesterday was one of those fashion week days in which the names on the schedule only create excitement for true fashionistas. Jil Sander was one of those names. Or I had better say Raf Simons. His SS11 collection was tightly connected to what we saw at Pitti for men and yet he added an extra twist to the über bold colours and sleek minimalism we're used to see form him. Tim Blanks explains it perfectly when he says " [a] maximalism, which led him instantly to haute couture". We saw that in the shape of gown skirts and dresses that were paired up with more casual pieces like t-shirts and sheer tops. In addition to his signature block hues we saw horizontal and vertical stripes and flowers prints that, while secondary, made the collection even more contemporary.

Bottega Veneta has been growing on me incessantly over the past few seasons. I admire established fashion houses who refrain from being stuck in the past and take risks hiring designers that wouldn't necessarily completely understand their vision. That was the risk (or safe bet as we can refer to it now) when Tomas Maier was hired. The focus was put on the construction and the tailoring which turned fabrics in to easy-to-wear light-weight garments. In fact, the ease of the collection is its most appealing aspect. In line with Acquascutum's "just out of bed" girl from last season, Maier gets the girl right out of the shower and onto flats because she is so confident she only needs perfectly made clothes to feel sexy.

I have to admit that the best part of watching the Pucci SS11 show online was the fact that Mademoiselle Agnès was in charge of walking around interviewing guests with her flawed but chic command of the English language. If any conclusion was to be drawn from what everyone said to her that should be that the Pucci woman is, above all, sexy. And she is sexy because Pucci is ageless (at least in the industry where older women dare to bare their legs), it is sensual rather than slutty and it has that boho chic air every woman loves. Peter Dunda's brought back the Ibiza of the 70's for SS11 in the shape of clothes people like Anna dello Russo would wear to the beach. Gauzy skirts short at the front and flowy at the bottom, backless long-sleeved mini dresses, pompoms and lots and lots of ruffles.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, TheSartorialist.blogspot.com]

to Cruise or not to Cruise

Every year I promise myself I won't post about Cruise and Pre-Fall collections anymore. And every year I fail. It's not that I actually enjoy them, but I always end up finding something nice about them. It might be because of a kind of eagerness that follows the end of one fashion week season and the anticipation of the next. In any case, Bottega Veneta and Burberry Prorsum have been the only two to join Dior and Chanel in the wonderful world of Cruise 2011 so far. Bottega Veneta pleasantly surprised me with menswear-inspired silhouettes very much in the line of Phoebe Philo. Black and white dominate over the pretty amazing tailoring with the odd dash of bright orange and blue or the more restrained beige. And I was happy to find another of those breath-taking dresses they do sometimes, like the one from FW09 I posted about two years ago.

Burberry Prorsum, with all their talk of heritage and vintage and faded, was almost entirely boring. The colours and the shapes were mostly repetitions of those of either SS10 or FW10 and the belted trench coats never ended. But one thing I did love, the crochet dresses and trench coats. They added a breath of fresh air and showed how the combination of heritage and innovation is feasible.
What do you make of Cruise collections?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, tforlando.com]

home run

I was recently at my religious picture scrutinising of The Fashionisto when I found this picture below as part of an editorial from Vogue Hommes International (photographed by Maciek Kobielski and styled by Darcy Backlar). The whole shoot epitomised the famous "American cool" in a very contemporary way. To do that, Darcy Backlar picked an American staple —the baseball jacket. Only this one by Bottega Veneta has a more urban feel thanks to the use of leather and a slimmer fit.

The Bottega Veneta jacket reminded me of my Carhartt one (below) and so I had a look at Asos to see what else was in the market for boys in the need of one of these jackets. They are the perfect thing to throw on for an effortless cool look and they look pretty awesome when added to a shirt and bowtie combo (think Kanye West).

Gunt Rugger, Lacoste Red, Carhartt, Yves Saint Laurent (@MatchesFashion.com), Gant, Franklin & Marshall (all @Asos.com).

I'm off.

happy birthday to moi

Every year the world celebrates the date of my birth my marking the 21st of March as the kick-off of the Spring. I'm not sure about other parts of the world but here in London it still feels too grey to get into the SS10 mood (as much as my beige Lanvin's scream to get them out). However, I have been present-hunting for weeks and these are part of the (hundreds?) of the splendid pieces I have found in my touring of my three favourite spots to shop —Browns, Liberty's and Matches.

Left to right and top to bottom: Dries Van Noten linen jacket @ Browns, Burberry Prorsum biker jacket @ Liberty's, 3.1 Phillip Lim plaid jumper @ Matches, Comme des Garçons appliquéd blazer @ Browns, Acne check shirt @ Matches, Christopher Kane atomic tee @ Matches, Liberty of London check shirt, E Tautz striped jumper @ Macthes, Burkman Bros patterned shorts @ Liberty's, Comme des Garçons trousers @ Browns, Linda Farrow for Dries Van Noten sunglasses @ Liberty's, Balenciaga graphic tee @ Matches, Dries Van Noten printed scarf @ Browns, Lanvin straw hat @ Browns, Bottega Veneta suede derby shoes @ Browns.

[Pictures: BrownsFashion.com, LibertyofLondon.co.uk, MatchesFashion.com]

Feel free to drop me an email asking for my address. No one will blame you for wanting to thank me for my amazing contribution to fashion by means of a piece of designer-wear. ...I jest, of course, or do I?

I'm off.

king of the heel

So I finally got around finishing checking the details section of Syle.com and giving my first go at photoshop. And, boy, did it take long... Try and ignore any flaws your eyes may spot and concentrate on the shoes. FW10 offered a variety of heels, but it seemed quite evident that the stiletto is back to reclaim its place as king of the heels. We only saw a few wedges or chunkier heels courtesy of Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Marni and Prada. The key is on the shoe details rather than on the shape. Concerning materials, we saw plenty of the usual croc and ostrich but also embroidered leather (Christopher Kane), shearling interiors (Burberry Prosum) and metallic flower applique. These are our favourites.

Top to bottom and left to right: Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Lanvin, Phillip Lim, Givenchy, Miu Miu, Prada, Rodarte, Prada, Prada.

[Pictures: Style.com]

I'm off.

Milan highlights

Whether is was entirely due to Anna Wintour's preferences or not, Milan fashion week occurred way too fast. We almost didn't have enough time to savour every collection the way they deserved. As it happened in London, the Italians proved that they know the direction they're going and that they haven't lost that savoire faire that first made them so popular. For the first time, I have organised the collections in order of my liking (excluding, of course, Marni and No. 21 which deserved special mention). Dolce & Gabbana pleasantly surprised me this season rooting back to their great basics and putting special emphasis in power dressing. Gucci, who in past seasons seemed unfocused, came back better than ever with an ode to Tom Ford times. While Donatella is still trying to find something that deserves having his brother's name on the tag, Christopher Kane's intervention at Versus succeeded in bringing the brand back into fashion from obsoleteness. —What's your favourite?

[Pictures: Style.com]

I'm off.

the copper globes

It has been a while since any award gala succeeded in getting to a fashionista's heart. And this year Golden Globes has been no different. However, I have come to the conclusion that if you will fail to even be vaguely fashion-forward you might as well stick to the classics.

Drew Barrymore has very much blossomed into a very interesting fashion personality. This Versace is not only on trend for next season but the bulgy detailing on the shoulder and hip add that edge she always needs. Emily Blunt, however, went for something a bit more restrained yet very gripping because of the way the fabric has been wrapped around. Plus, that haircut is a keeper.

Maggie Gyllenhall might or might not be aware that she doesn't have the most gifted face in Hollywood but she certainly knows how to compensate. Again, the subdued detailing makes her Roland Mouret captivating. Sandra Bullock gave me a big surprise. I loved how Coco's Tea Party chose her dress as the most unexpected colour, it is all about the hue.

Black doesn't really ever go wrong. I love how January Jones was one of the few to choose a high neckline. It made her Lanvin kind of intriguing and her casual hair-do added to that. Julia Roberts looked quite alluring in a very straightforward version of the LBD and the fact that she went into the YSL archive to get it really gives her bonus point in my book.

I was sad to hear from my flatmate that Julianne Moore was in the worst dressed list. My favourite moment of the night was when Tom Ford was asked if he approved of her dress and he almost spit out a "duh", noting that he is very good friends with Nicolas Ghesquière. And, of course, Ashley (the future Mrs. soVIPzone) in a flirtatious electric blue Erdem that takes my breath way. She also wore the Manolos from Sex and The City, which only gives me more ideas of how to propose.

[Picture credit: JustJared]

I'm off.

classic is never démodé

It is finally here. Even though we are already three days into Paris Fashion Week I thought a recap on Milan was in order. I have left out many designers —those who did not innovate enough or whose creations simply did not appeal to me. In any case, S/S 2010 seems to only have recession in the back of its head. Most designers have gone back to basics —blazers and all types of tailored pieces filled the runway and they did so with pleasantly surprising twists to them. Have a look.

This was, by far, the biggest surprise. I would have not expected Ferragamo to put together such an excellent collection of timeless pieces that feel so cool and fresh.

I want to wear Marni for the rest of the summer. The cuts are so clean, the colours so softly elegant and the fit so comfy-looking that, could I afford it, you would not catch me wearing any other brand.

This was very much a flash collection, it did not even reach the traditional circa-30 looks. But sometimes less is most definitely more. And a restricted palette can make everything all the more interesting. Zegna left their textures speak.

Trussardi perspired coolness from the hip twist on formal wear to the native American inspiration dominating the second half of the show. It is urbanwear but distinctive, and I love it.

The only thing I kept thinking while looking at the Missoni collection was: "This is exactly what Chuck Bass would wear if he went to Oxford". I believe that statement to be self-explanatory.

Another surprise. Not a big big one but surprise all the same. I never like Moschino, I have always thought it to be very cheap-looking and tacky. This collection changed my mind. Even when the detailing (be it embroidery or print) might seem a little too much, it is a very new-looking collection that will possibly redirection the brand somewhere more tasteful.

I have been staring at all these looks for a couple of days trying to decide whether I like it or not. It is innovative, fair enough. But is McQueen getting too relaxed on his golden throne and thinking he can get away with anything?

Too many layers for any Italian, Spaniard, French or Greek. And I love grey to pieces but this collection does not seem very realistic when it comes to the season it is for. Now, Miuccia has played most skillfully with different materials. I am specially fond of those cottony nets.

Funny how such an Italian brand can feel so oddly British. This takes me back centuries to dodgy parts of London when burglars stole expensive garments and wore them to pretend they were posh. Only Zegna makes burglars look pretty damn stylish.

And here goes my first disappointment of the season. This Gucci collection was too diffuse, too white, too old Gucci. I did love the fit of the trousers, all of the shoes and those prints Frida Giannini uses so well.

Not groundbreaking but at least Bottega Veneta stepped out of their comfort zone and showed plenty of pieces men of any age and nationality would love to throw on their back.

D&G was not innovative or fresh but at least they changed their black and blues for beiges and browns. It is better than nothing.

[Pictures credit: Men.Style.com]

I'm off.