Courtesy of Burberry, Iñaki C.

The Burberry collections are mostly every time at the top of my list of fashion week highlights. This time even more so as Giulia and I attended our first Burberry show in Milan, which was the main reason why my trip to the city actually took place. And what a collection we saw!

Christopher Bailey got a little whimsical for SS12 with a lot of colours, prints, appliques although, in fact, I would say that the play on materials and textures made the collection. The were, of course, the expected trench coats and macs but they came out in jacquard and suede and finished with wooden beads on the collars. I loved this combination of Burberry's heritage with the innovation in materials and the almost ethnic graphics.

If I had to choose the peaks of the show I would have to mention the raffia and leather shoes (I want!), the geometric-appliqued jumpers and t-shirts and the exquisitely chic prints on shirts and trousers (which will be in my wardrobe as soon as the collection is out).

I also paid a lot of attention to the knits and trousers as they're always two of my favourite items from burberry collections. Bailey has kept the lines of trousers slim and the hemlines almost unnoticeably cropped —so that they're fresh in the summer but still smart— and has made of knitwear more of statement. I remember especially well a blazer-shaped cardigan that would be so handy for chilly summer parties by the sea.
It was, in my opinion, one of the best collections for men Bailey has delivered in seasons and I can't possibly tell you how happy I was to have seen it with my own eyes.
A big thank you to the Burberry team!

The finale of the show with all models carrying the new iPad 2 cases

Keep up to date with men's Fashion Week at Fashion, Frankly

DVN + LV = ME

One of the things I love the most about men's fashion week is that there is no need to endure days and days of random shows spiced up with the odd brilliant up-and-coming designer and they cut straight to the chase. Paris Fashion Week opened the evening of the 23rd, which meant the actual opening was on the 24th. A jam-packed with some of the greatest: Viktor & Rolf, Alexis Mabille, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten and Johji Yamamoto among others.

Even though it's half two in the morning when I'm typing this, the Dries Van Noten website still reads: "This movie will be available the day after the show". Which makes me sad because I usually enjoy his location and music choices as much as the clothes. The SS11 collection showed the designer's reinterpretation of street style described as "80's Brooklyn meets Brussels". I, however, see more of a very chic version of a skin head that wears hand-me-downs from his dad's teddy-boy past. Dries mixed his beautiful tailoring with bleached denim, t-shirts and military boots in such a cool and contemporary way you'd think he spends his spare hanging out in Tribeca.

I don't think I ever fully understood a woman's passion for bags until today when I went through the Louis Vuitton collection. I have never wanted a bag as much as I now want that green LV at the top. And this is not surprising because I am a man and it is a bag but because it is Vuitton. I have never been the biggest fan even though I do own a couple of items but there is something about having the classic LV square pattern in bright nylon that is irresistible. I was also very impressed by the clothes, which I usually don't like at all at LV. I'd like to think Paul Helbers had more to do with this success than Marc himself, as I have odd feelings toward the man. In any case, Vuitton really refocused its game with a collection that feels cool and cosmopolitan and that will appeal to a range of ages.
I'm off.

PS. How cool are the LV tattoos? Is that becoming a trend?

[Pictures: Style.com]

the cherry on top

Milan Fashion Week wrapped up yesterday after four days of non-stop hit collections. I was in awe of the usuals (Zegna, Jil Sander, Burberry) but what made things even better was the fact that Domenico and Stefano at Dolce & Gabbana and D&G really showed why they became so popular in the first place. Going away from the usual Italian stereotypes of gold sneakers and stuffed shirts and ripped jeans, the Italian duo keeps finding inspiration in the country's traditional clothing and putting it through their funnel to bring their clothes to the present. For the D&G line, which I haven't liked since I was 16, they gave us a picnic orgy of gingham and espadrilles. They created mono-colour outfits that played with patterns, prints and texture. Everything was extremely wearable, fresh and, yes, desirable.

Dean and Dan at Dsquared2 were my second surprise of the week. I normally find their collections really fun and clever but too stuck into their own cliched Italian-ness. For SS11, however, their found inspiration in the classic 'American Gigolo'. Personally, I think they couldn't have chosen a theme that suited them better. The 80's vibe works amazingly with the really modern colours of the tucked-in t-shirts and tight straight-legged jeans. Their collection also had that kind of cocky attitude they always add to their clothes but this time it was a cool kind of cockiness when men slick their hair back and leave undone a few buttons on their shirts for the walk of shame they will enjoy.

And now we're on to Paris. It's only getting better. Which was your favourite collection from MFW?
I'm off.

[Pictures: GQ.com, larapixie.blogspot.com]

Miuccia's forward thinking

I have never considered putting Miuccia's talent in question. Nor I am. I watched the Prada SS11 men's show with excitement and in wonderment as futuristic clothes somewhat inspired in the past walked the runway in a somewhat loft-y venue in Milan. The three-button blazers and v-neck jumpers that opened the show looked almost 'body-con' elongating the body, futuristic shapes in colours from the past. As the models continued to march down the catwalk we saw the proportions changed with baggier trousers and shorts and then baggy shirts. Short-sleeved t-shirts that like out of a Scrubs re-run layered over shirts and later presented in denim. A very classic type of denim that Miuccia also used to make suits, shirts and ties creating what, to me, was the star of the collection.

The finale consisted of a series of striped, thick jumpers also with that futuristic feel but very much inspired in après-ski. Even the shoes possessed that characteristic of retro-futuristic by using multicolour metallic leather on brogues with rubber and esparto soles.
All in all, a super directional collection of which one may not want to buy or wear too many pieces but that proves Miuccia not only a great designer but a remarkable thinker.
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, TheSartorialist.blogspot.com]

Forza Italia

Even though Jil Sander and Haider Ackermann had been the first catwalk shows to open the SS11 season at the Pitti trade fair Men's fashion week officially kicked off in Milan yesterday with big names the likes of Burberry Prorsum and Dolce & Gabbana opening. I am trying hard to catch up as I was flying home yesterday so I decided to sum up the first of the first day in one post. I will, from now on, try to make individual posts of my favourite shows and review them.

Jil Sander was the first show to be streamed live and both the collection and the location of the show lived up to the excitement that first shows entail. Talk about colour blocking. Raf Simons epitomised the famous trend with taste and skill. The bold colours appeared to have been carefully hand-picked to only use the best shades, including the über-famous Klein blue. Tailoring was the protagonist of the collection, with slight variations like crotch-scrathing shorts and belted blazers. And the colourful soles of the shoes were to die for.

Christopher Bailey made me smile. Despite how much I loved the shearling jackets from Burberry Prorsum's FW10 collection I was overall a little disappointed in Bailey's restraint. That's why I loved SS11 so much. The Burberry essence is ever present in the shape of the staple suits and trench coats and the brand's iconic colours. But SS11 introduced a hardness factor by means of leather and spikes that seems almost medieval which creates the most interesting combinations of texture in contrast with the remains of Burberry's traditional romantic softness. A collection absolutely packed with future best-selling items.

Domenico and Stefano already redirected their men's line for FW10 taking inspiration from the Sicily of the 1920's. They opted for the kind of all-star Italian clothing that had put Italy in the fashion map in the past. Fortunately, they continued to follow that line for SS11. They celebrated their 20 anniversary with the most delightful colour palette of whites and faded greys and blues. The kind of clothes a Mediterranean man was expected to wear for Sunday mass when the sun was shine bright and hot. I absolutely melt at the light creme and white combos for suits and the utterly retro underwear.

To me, Corneliani was all about the trousers. They took the baggy linen suit trouser Armani has been doing for years and reformatted it for the younger, cooler man. They wrinkle just the right amount at the bottom to add a touch of casualness without the risk of looking sloppy.

Season after season I always love Trussardi. There is something so Italian and so cool about it that simply drives me crazy. For SS11 they picked up on leopard just as so many women's Cruise'11 lines did. And they did so in just the right amount so as to not look tacky. It is true YSL had done the same belt before and Acne the same desert boots but Trussardi takes it to a new level by creating jackets in blue and khaki leopard prints that hadn't been done before in menswear. I simply can't wait to get a hold of most of the pieces from this collection.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, GQ.com, DianePernet.typepad.com]

tru style

I'll admit it, Alexander Skarsgard makes me green (as beautiful as his shirt) with envy. Everything from the blue puppy eyes to the blond hair to his 6' 4" (1.93 m), I'd choose for myself. But all of these traits would be of very little use if he didn't know how to dress. I like the fact that he always opts for simplicity (Acne Swedishness *cough*) and that he knows how to give the little touches and add the little details that make the difference —the t-shirts that are tight and loose in the right spots, the jeans and sleeves rolled up exactly right. He could very well be the epitome of the manly fashionable guy. [This blog post goes out to you, P.]

[Pictures: JustJared.buzznet.com]

I'm off.

MGMT & DVN

Ben Goldwasser, half of the band MGMT, slips into two of my favourite SS10 Dries Van Noten pieces for BlackBook's May issue. Moments like this give me joy because they prove that sartorial classic pieces with god cuts are the true essence of menswear cool. Now, I need my bank to grant me a few thousand extra pounds to stock up on Dries prints, cropped trousers and patterned shoes.

[Pictures: JustJared, GQ.com]

I'm off.

PS. MGMT just come on Radio 1. Spooky.

Jesse wants to be me

A few days ago I tweeted this picture of myself wearing my vintage Levi's denim jacket and having my hair slicked back in a rather 70's look. Well, it seems Jesse McCartney has been reading soVIPzone and "taking inspiration" from my look. It looks like the basic that is the denim jacket is all the rage for men this season. However, if you look carefully you'll realise this is not the classic tidy denim jacket we have always seen but a wrinkled more faded version. My favourite for the season? Balenciaga's contemporary version of the jacket with more modern lines and grey denim. Who do you think pulls off the look best?

[Pictures: soVIPzone, JustJared, MatchesFashion.com]

I'm off.

home run

I was recently at my religious picture scrutinising of The Fashionisto when I found this picture below as part of an editorial from Vogue Hommes International (photographed by Maciek Kobielski and styled by Darcy Backlar). The whole shoot epitomised the famous "American cool" in a very contemporary way. To do that, Darcy Backlar picked an American staple —the baseball jacket. Only this one by Bottega Veneta has a more urban feel thanks to the use of leather and a slimmer fit.

The Bottega Veneta jacket reminded me of my Carhartt one (below) and so I had a look at Asos to see what else was in the market for boys in the need of one of these jackets. They are the perfect thing to throw on for an effortless cool look and they look pretty awesome when added to a shirt and bowtie combo (think Kanye West).

Gunt Rugger, Lacoste Red, Carhartt, Yves Saint Laurent (@MatchesFashion.com), Gant, Franklin & Marshall (all @Asos.com).

I'm off.

coordination

Do you remember this W Magazine editorial from a few months ago? I was looking at this menswear one from Cafe Magazine and it reminded me of the W one so much! I quite like the fact that colour coordination is very much in this season. I love mixing and matching but I'm actually a coordinator at heart. It sounds funny but it's true.

[Pictures: theFashionisto.com]

I'm off.

happy birthday to moi

Every year the world celebrates the date of my birth my marking the 21st of March as the kick-off of the Spring. I'm not sure about other parts of the world but here in London it still feels too grey to get into the SS10 mood (as much as my beige Lanvin's scream to get them out). However, I have been present-hunting for weeks and these are part of the (hundreds?) of the splendid pieces I have found in my touring of my three favourite spots to shop —Browns, Liberty's and Matches.

Left to right and top to bottom: Dries Van Noten linen jacket @ Browns, Burberry Prorsum biker jacket @ Liberty's, 3.1 Phillip Lim plaid jumper @ Matches, Comme des Garçons appliquéd blazer @ Browns, Acne check shirt @ Matches, Christopher Kane atomic tee @ Matches, Liberty of London check shirt, E Tautz striped jumper @ Macthes, Burkman Bros patterned shorts @ Liberty's, Comme des Garçons trousers @ Browns, Linda Farrow for Dries Van Noten sunglasses @ Liberty's, Balenciaga graphic tee @ Matches, Dries Van Noten printed scarf @ Browns, Lanvin straw hat @ Browns, Bottega Veneta suede derby shoes @ Browns.

[Pictures: BrownsFashion.com, LibertyofLondon.co.uk, MatchesFashion.com]

Feel free to drop me an email asking for my address. No one will blame you for wanting to thank me for my amazing contribution to fashion by means of a piece of designer-wear. ...I jest, of course, or do I?

I'm off.

The Huns wore Prada

Last Monday, March 15th, the classic Italian opera Attila got an extra injection of Italiana from the hand of Miuccia Prada. She reinvented the whole costume designs of Verdi's piece by adding a much more contemporary note and bringing back influences from her past collections. Go here to see all the coverage from Style.com, words by Derek Blasberg.

Miuccia's clear references from FW07 (left) and SS07 (right) incorporated into the main character's costume.

The result in real life.

Men's costumes draw inspiration from Prada's FW07 (left) and SS10 (right) collections.

[Pictures: Style.com, GQ.com, MetOperaFamily.org]

I'm off.

"rebirth of nature"

Nicola Formichetti is on a roll. His latest editorial for the very young yet professional Vogue Hommes Japan features key SS10 pieces from Givenchy, Chanel, Dunhill, Dior Homme, Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein. What genius!

Photographer: Josh Olins

Fashion editor: Nicola Formichetti

[Pictures: Coute que Coute]

I'm off.

Oh, oobee doo I wanna be like you

Every season I wait and I wait to see his picture on The Sartorialist and Jak & Jill. But it never happens. The reason why someone as cool and delightfully sartorial as Derek Blasberg (editor of fashion news and special projects for V and VMan magazine) doesn't get his well-deserved mentions completely escapes me. On top of V and VMan he is also in charge of the people and parties column of style.com and often writes for Harper's Bazaar and the Sunday Times and Interview. If a successful career wasn't enough, he can proudly say he counts amongst his friends the über-cool Mary-Kate Olsen (he edited "Influence"), Rachel Zoe and Leigh Lezark. I suppose that, in a way, he is cooler than everyone else precisely because of all this. So I will continue to enjoy his perfectly put-together outfits that include the kind of jumpers and sock colours my wardrobe longs for.

[Picture credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

UPDATE: Derek, if you ever read this again, thanks so much for your tweet answer. It made my day!

M vs. M

If you regularly check soVIPzone you know I am quite fond of comparing womens and menswear. I think it has something to do with the fact that women's clothes are always the main focus in fashion and we are somehow alienated. So I'm constantly trying to prove that we deserve our share of attention too. And this is yet another reason to support that. Isn't it fascinating that Marc Jacobs has done exactly the same for men and trousers in FW10 as Miuccia Prada did for women in SS09? I do think so. Now, whether we'll see any men actually wearing this double leg or not is a different question.

[Picture credits: Style.com, GQ.com]

I'm off.

Catalan blood

I don't know if many of you have this urge I have to try and find fresh talent in the fashion design world. We sure love Balenciaga, Chloé and Prada but there are many designers out there whose names we unfairly don't know. This is the case of the Catalan brand Jan iú Més that I discovered through a very dear Barcelonian friend of mine. They currently only produce menswear but who says success can not change their minds? Have a look at their SS10 collection —outstanding jackets and blazers for the summer and, my favourite, double layer shorts in a variety of light fabrics (always remember to play with textures on a monochrome ensemble).

Check out their website here. What do you think?

I'm off.

now is then

I was determined to post the Paris Fashion Week menswear highlights tonight but alas my stomach's state of emptiness prevents me from refocusing my attention from food and onto blogging. Instead, you will find this shorter post about one of the aspects that I found more fascinating about the FW10 Dries Van Noten show. I couldn't get the FW07 Balenciaga collection out of my head while looking at these pictures. Coming from Dries, however, I took this obvious reference as a genius twist on Nicolas Ghesquière's FW07 collection rather than as plagiarism —a generosity gesture so men can wear DVN and feel like wearing vintage Balenciaga. All at once. Behold.

[Picture credit: Style.com & GQ.com]

I'm off.

what happened in Milan

Milan Fashion Week was only the first half of all the good things to come for menswear. However, it has been a very exciting few days thanks to the live streaming of the fashion shows and all the twittering going on. I am overall very pleased with what I have seen. Designers have restrained themselves and have hence found new ways to let go of their prodigality via textures and colours. My biggest joy? —Gucci and the return of the turtle neck and blazer combo. Which collection was your favourite?

[Pictures credit: GQ.com]

I'm off.