London's strongest new-comer

On Tuesday night I was one of the lucky few to attend the Thomas Tait fw11 show. And I mean lucky not only because I was invited but because I got to see closely a great designer in the making and his creations. In a charming hidden away venue in the heart of London the Canadian designer, who recently finished his MA at Central Saint Martins was won this year's Dorchester Prize, showed a collection that was as minimalist in cut as it was intricate in cut. It is said of Tait that he doesn't use shortcuts to make real his vision. Instead, he spends long periods of time focusing on impeccable pattern cutting. This showed in the architectural shapes of skirts, which combined folded wool and pleated silk, and the coats that filled the attendee's mouths after the show. I was also particularly taken away by the backless night gowns, which revealed a pleated trail so dynamic it seemed to have life of its own, and the shoes —suede slippers and ankle boots and minimal leather stilettos cuffed at the ankle.

I couldn't help but to think of Napoleonic clothing. Tait seemed to have taken 18th century France as inspiration and approached it from an avant-garde tailoring point of view. The colour palette reminded me of Céline's hit FW11 collection, as Tait restricted himself to black, navy blue, ivory and white.
Have a look at my video of the finale below. The clothes are even more stunning in movement. (And, for a spot of fun, have a look at the pictures on Style.com, I am in the background on the left!)

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Introducing: Kamola SS11

When I think back, one of the best things about taking my first course at LCF was to meet all these people who would go on to do very different things in the industry after university. Kamola is one of those people. She first attended the prestigious Instituto Marangoni before moving to London and spending the last three years laying the foundations for her namesake brand and putting together her first collection for FW10.

Kamola has, since then, been brought on by On|Off at their numbernine store and showed her SS11 line. Last weekend, I was lucky enough to attend their preview where I had the rare treat of choosing what I wanted to see on the model! The collection is quite simply a breath of fresh air. Kamola has shifted from the femme noir body-con she did for winter to a very modern aesthetic based on structure. She cleverly played with angles creating interesting looks like the side-slit silk shorts paired with the asymmetric printed top. My favourite part of the collection, however, were the exquisite prints. Kamola personally handpicked them in Uzbekistan (her home country) where they are all handmade with silk. The result is extraordinary on the inside of the garments. The collection is completed with a beautiful colour palette (soft yellows, apple greens and pale pinks) and selective silks and chiffons, which play with the concept of a structured sexiness in the most contemporary manner.

Check out the rest of the SS11 collection and the FW10 line at Kamola's website.
You can buy Kamola online at Lila Boutique, Not just a label.
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[Pictures: Kamola, soVIPzone]

Introducing: Lilette Gobin

"I like the thought of my drawings as a point of contemplation" replies Elizabeth when I ask her about her illustration work. Lilette Gobin is Elizabeth's creative signature, the alter ego that drives her artistic mind and skilful hand. I've had the pleasure of knowing her since we were very young and wore uniforms. I was always in awe of what she could draw, what she could make with her hands, even just of what she could imagine. I have seen how her work has grown and matured, like her, through the years. Added to her natural talent is the more technical background, which she acquired at university. But she is a softy at heart —"I'd like for my drawings to transmit calm in the shape of intimate frozen moments". She is, hence, venturing into the exciting world of fashion illustration and I wanted to be one of the first to post about her. "Every illustration is also the creation of a scene where the focus is not only on the individuals but also on their attire, for it's design that moves me to create".

What I love the most about Lilette Gobin is how she is always dreaming. It's almost like she lives in a world where one can wear a Louis VI night gown with Louboutins to go grab a coffee with the girls. It's not surprise, then, when you hear she is a big fan of John Galliano. They both share a love for period drama brought to our days but not updated too much so as to not lose its essence. And I must add she is also an incredible (untrained!) fashion designer.
Lilette recently created a blog where she shares all her work. You will find very dramatic scenes situated in the 18th century just as easily as in the 20's. All of it next to 21st century girls with see-through mini dresses sipping Martinis and sporting mohawks. Keep an eye out for her because this is only the beginning!

You can see a picture of Lilette above, taken by her very talented photographer boyfriend. You can check out his absolutely stunning work here.

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[Pictures: Lilette Gobin, Isaac César]

You're either in or you're out

As a foreigner who has lived in the UK for a while and made a big effort to be absorbed by British culture one of the first things I had to do was religiously sit in front of the tv every Saturday night to watch the X Factor. But not only watch, I had to show great genuine enthusiasm or anger for the my favourite contestants. Honestly speaking, it didn't take long until I was a convert. And now I can't live without it. The year after I lost my X Factor virginity the panel of judges welcomed Cheryl Cole, whom I had never looked at twice. And it was then that our (or my) love story started. I am irresistibly attracted to her face and her accent. Little did I know she'd try and become the fashion-statement maker of the show. I admit she is yet to master such an art. In fact, she provided fashion catastrophes such as that signed by David Koma. This time, though, she seems to be toning it down, playing it safer. But I can smell something good coming up.
I can't complain so far. For the first live show of the season she donned a dress by one of my favourite young designers —Daniel Vosovic. I didn't expect this choice at all. In fact, I originally though the dress was by Antonio Berardi. Vosovic was one of the finalists of Project Runway season 2 and one of my favourite contestants as of yet. He showed such class and taste and his dress-amking skills were rather sharp for someone so fresh off FIT. I had lost track of him for a couple of seasons but he came back on my radar after he showed his SS11 collection in the last edition of NYFW.

The collection mainly focused on utilitarian chic, taking elements from menswear and working garments and very feminine and fragile fabrics and having them worn by a tough woman. It almost seemed as if the collection was intended as a high-fashion option for camping attire —as if you took Unique's FW10 runway and brought it to Central Park. Vosovic also played with digital prints, something he had never done before, on velvet panels which draped over gauze and mesh to form dresses. I can't understand why more attention hasn't been given to him, I am certainly watching.

I'm off.

[Pictures: NYmag.com, Redcarpet-fashionawards.com]

Icebreaker

As we waited outside the venue in the Freemason's Hall, Giulia, Tala (from MyFashDiary.com) and I kept wondering what the Masha Ma SS11 show would be like but we also reiterated how promising the collection seemed to us from just a few images we had seen beforehand. The line self-proclaimed itself as a new way of dressing up that put the focus on the look rather than on separates while still giving each of them its own practicality.
If anything, the collection made a point of white being self-sufficient despite the odd smoky print, the dashes of silver and strokes of nude and baby blue. The designer's cutting skills were proved excellent by creating the most interesting shapes and layered compositions that showed a futuristic vision less subtle than announced. Cropped and sculptured fitted skirts were paired up with loose fitting silk shirts and tops.

Giulia and I were enamoured by the silver cropped trousers of slashed pockets and the printed sheer blouse that became a trail at the back, belted in silver over a white pencil skirt. Enjoy our video of the finale. We can't wait to see what's in store from Masha Ma for FW11.

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[Pictures: Christopherdadey.com]

Grande talento

Going through my messy world the other day, I found an old insert from Vogue Italia. It was about the new era of fashion cerated by new great minds. I started flicking through the pages to see who were, for the Italian bible, the new designers to keep an eye on.
Mary Katrantzou caught my attention from the first time I saw her creations on LuisaViaRoma's website. She's definitely part of the new era of fashion where digital prints are revolutionising the way of creating patterns. Her FW 2010 collection includes a great selection of silhouettes and desing. The whole line, from the prints point of view, reminded me of the splendeur and the richness of Sicilian Baroque churches as well as of portraits of big historical leaders. The collection has a great mix of new sophisticated elegance.

Roberta Furlanetto is one of the new designers who rappresent the essence of 'Made in Italy'. After starting her career under the influence of Azzedine Alaïa, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, she created her own company 3 years ago. Her collection is a mix of artisan-made garments and ethical materials. Her clothes have both a feminine silhouette and a chic semplicity. Her palette for FW 2010 mixes soft pale colours with dashes of intense ones. There are also some pieces in black, which I haven't included in the post, but are worth seeing at www.robertafurlanetto.com. My favourite piece is the fuchsia ruffle dress, a rich volume of colour which makes a woman feel confident and beautiful.

I have always been an 'accessories' kind of girl, always obssessed more with shoes, bags and jewellery rather than clothes. I fell in love with Chrissie Morris the moment I turned a page and saw her shows. Not just another shoe designer. Her shoes are edgy pieces of sculpture. She is capable of juxtaposing elements like precious materials, such as shiny python, and simple 'architectonical' lines. As soon as I saw her collection I thought of the Art Deco period, in which the line were the essence of the creative process.

- Giuls

[Pictures: Style.com, Style.it, ChrissieMiller.com]

Introducing: Clarissa Labin

Today, as I flicked through the September issue of Vogue UK, I spotted a little square column on the right-hand side of one of the pages devoted to a new talent, Clarissa Labin, whose team had emailed me her lookbook a few days before. I was happy to see it wasn't just me that had seen in her debut FW10 line a lot of potential and great pieces. As you know, when I first come across a collection I always look for certain essential pieces. Labin hits all the right notes: a leather LBD, a leather jacket, a chunky cardigan and plenty of revisited basics which make a very modern statement via colour. The lamé skirt and dress and the leather skirt add the winter trend elements that round up the collection.
It's hard to believe this is a first collection. Directional lines are hard to come by in amateur designers. But Clarissa is no amateur. After graduating from London College of Fashion in 2000 she first worked in the accessories design department of Christian Dior. She then moved on to H&M where she specialised in knitwear and jersey (hence the fantastic pieces in her collection) and where she'd work as Head of Design of Divided Black until 2009, when she moved to Berlin to start the amazing line we see below.

Clarissa Labin will be stocked at glassworks-studios.com and Anthropologie in the UK.
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[Pictures: Clarissa Labin]

Introducing: Kimberly Taylor NYC

If you didn't know about my Michelle Williams fixation my post from a few days ago probably did the job. Well, if a couple of killer red carpet looks weren't enough she looked ridiculously pretty today walking around Cannes. She was only wearing a simple navy top and striped body-con skirt but she knows it's the cut and colour that count. The outfit made me think of Kimberly Taylor, a young American brand that recently contacted me. I am not the biggest fan of taking post requests but I was instantly drawn to the clothes. Kimberly Taylor is a new York-based, NYU-graduate designer that debuted her first line only last year. She makes beautifully minimalistic pieces for that kind of sexy girl that likes looking great and believes in chic simplicity.

I think the shorts and skirts are super clever pieces for the summer. They look very comfortable they are versatile, as you can wear them for a chilled lunch during the day or to go out at night. My favourite feature about the whole line, though, are all the see-through bits on tops and dresses. They are a really cool way of making well-made basics more interesting.

*The people at Kimberly Taylor have been so nice as to offer soVIPzone readers a 10% discount on their online store so you can be the first to get your hands on a bunch of her clothes. The discount is valid until the 31st of May and all you have to do is go to the website and enter the code "VIP" at checkout.

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[Pictures: Celebrity-Gossip.com, KimberlyTaylor.com]

Hyères 2010 festival

Last month, on my post about the fashion exhibitions not to be missed in Paris I mentioned the Steven Klein and Dries Van Noten ones at the Villa Noailles-Hyères. Well, it was precisely right there where the Hyères festival takes place every year to celebrate upcoming photographers and fashion designers. And guess who was the president of the judges this year? Yes, Mr. Dries himself. Now, I don't know if patriotism has anything to do with it but the winner of Hyères 2010 was belgian designer Alexandra Verschueren, who also studied fashion design at the legendary Antwerp Academy.

The collection is very impressive. Origami has clearly been a big influence on the designer that has translated quite literally to the clothes. The workmanship is undeniable as is the very well finished state of every single piece. Those capes and coats would make dello Russo melt and Tommy Ton gasp for air. Have a closer look (and only a look; unless you speak Dutch, that is) at the garments in motion below.

I'm off.

[Sources: VillaNoailles-Hyeres.com, Vogue-it, AlexandraVerschueren.com]

Catalan blood

I don't know if many of you have this urge I have to try and find fresh talent in the fashion design world. We sure love Balenciaga, Chloé and Prada but there are many designers out there whose names we unfairly don't know. This is the case of the Catalan brand Jan iú Més that I discovered through a very dear Barcelonian friend of mine. They currently only produce menswear but who says success can not change their minds? Have a look at their SS10 collection —outstanding jackets and blazers for the summer and, my favourite, double layer shorts in a variety of light fabrics (always remember to play with textures on a monochrome ensemble).

Check out their website here. What do you think?

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good locks

I recently came across Ana Locking. In her SS10 collection showcased at Madrid Fashion Week, the Spanish designer created a cocktail of old school glamour and current coolness. All of the pieces bubble over with sophistication but the type that only Leighton Meester, Diane Kruger or Leigh Lezark are capable of.

Click here to see Ana Locking's whole collection and line of accessories.
Which piece would you wear?

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iDontfreeze

It never ceases to happen. Every year I acquire a new pair of gloves and every year I find myself playing the game: put them on, take them off. You can't lock a door, find your Oyster in your pocket or flick through Vogue on the tube (let alone use any touch screen device). Last year I tried to mimic Mr. Lagerfeld by means of fingerless gloves, only to find that they're of little use. But this year I have finally obtained the answer. Etre Touchy has developed a new type of gloves made from 100% lambs wool that is most simply genius. Their missing thumb and index fingertips let your most resourceful fingers do their job while keeping the passive rest warm.
I won't go out without a pair this winter. No more taking my gloves off to find music on my iPod, send a text or have take-away sushi in Hyde Park.
Go here to find out more about Etre Touchy and order your pair. Choose from a selection of colours for only £19.99

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a PATTERN for life

If I were to choose only one out of all the great aspects of the Christmas holidays, it would definitely be carefully going through all my magazines over and over again. Whether I read Vogue, GQ, Bazaar or i-D surprises come to the surface once you've had the time to see beyond the images and read the quick notes and dig into the first pages' details. Well, it was this favourite treat of mine that brought me to discover Olivia Rubin. January's Vogue UK issue selects her as the "need to know" for the new year, a refreshing proposal of a St. Martins graduate who excelled in pattern making and was selected to participate in the college's annual catwalk show. The key to her success is in the simple way she creates patterns and includes them on cotton, chiffon and silk taking anyone who dares to stare to an alternative universe where Calvin Klein meets Pin-up girls.

If you're already looking of the perfect way of investing your extra Christmas pay, this is it. Something fresh and new that will never cross the door to enter the old-fashion world.

Click here for contact details and more information on her.

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a SADISTIC world

You've already known soVIPzone for a while now. I have, since February, tried to provide you with the finest fashion selection possible having as the only tool my very personal and —I believe— good taste. This is the reason why all the greatest designers keep showing up around here. But my deep love for fashion won't let me stop at this. I'm back with a very fresh update; fresh for the product itself and for its designer. "Sadistic World" is the latest personal project from Fede, a young designer who calls home a little town near Madrid (Spain) while he goes to college in Valencia.


The project is only the beginning of it all, I hope, but this shall not mean his products are inmature as those who could be expected from someone in such a starting state of life; au contraire, for its own name is foretelling. Sadistic means "deliberate cruelty", which is exactly the punishment you'll be putting on your own back if you don't become the owner of one of his masterpiece shirts right away.



Sadistic's main line is made up by a series of designs having a boodoo doll as centerpiece of all the design's variations and backgrounded by the colors who we could call principal to the entire collection since they show up constantly: emerald and pink.
Born together with the main line, another one broadens up the sadistic boundaries as it gives its creator a design getaway to let his imagination fly freely. It is in this line that we can find a wider source of inspiration featuring style celebrities such as Lady Diana or Fede's own message tees and visual art.
But "Sadistic World" is, above all, about freshness. It breathes coolness and style through simplicity; because it is about reinterpreting the always-hot vintage ideas from a simple but, most importantly, very innovative point of view. And this is something soVIPzone appreciates most, the ability of combinig the lack of excess and the classics and updating them. We can definitely expect great things from the King of what I hope will be the "Sadistic Empire".
I was lucky enough to have found out about his creative career before the first set of orders was done so I ordered one myself. It is not in my possesion yet, due to time issues, but I can tell you that I selected the one with the green and pink bars and feauturing the signature image and the brand's name split on both bars. Really cool.

Now it's up to you. Do you dare to be cool? —I do.





For detailed info, including ordering, shipping and prices click here.
Also, stay updated about the sadistic world thru its fotolog.

I'm off.