You're either in or you're out

As a foreigner who has lived in the UK for a while and made a big effort to be absorbed by British culture one of the first things I had to do was religiously sit in front of the tv every Saturday night to watch the X Factor. But not only watch, I had to show great genuine enthusiasm or anger for the my favourite contestants. Honestly speaking, it didn't take long until I was a convert. And now I can't live without it. The year after I lost my X Factor virginity the panel of judges welcomed Cheryl Cole, whom I had never looked at twice. And it was then that our (or my) love story started. I am irresistibly attracted to her face and her accent. Little did I know she'd try and become the fashion-statement maker of the show. I admit she is yet to master such an art. In fact, she provided fashion catastrophes such as that signed by David Koma. This time, though, she seems to be toning it down, playing it safer. But I can smell something good coming up.
I can't complain so far. For the first live show of the season she donned a dress by one of my favourite young designers —Daniel Vosovic. I didn't expect this choice at all. In fact, I originally though the dress was by Antonio Berardi. Vosovic was one of the finalists of Project Runway season 2 and one of my favourite contestants as of yet. He showed such class and taste and his dress-amking skills were rather sharp for someone so fresh off FIT. I had lost track of him for a couple of seasons but he came back on my radar after he showed his SS11 collection in the last edition of NYFW.

The collection mainly focused on utilitarian chic, taking elements from menswear and working garments and very feminine and fragile fabrics and having them worn by a tough woman. It almost seemed as if the collection was intended as a high-fashion option for camping attire —as if you took Unique's FW10 runway and brought it to Central Park. Vosovic also played with digital prints, something he had never done before, on velvet panels which draped over gauze and mesh to form dresses. I can't understand why more attention hasn't been given to him, I am certainly watching.

I'm off.

[Pictures: NYmag.com, Redcarpet-fashionawards.com]

NY highlights

This New York Fashion Week gave the feeling to be more aware of the times we live in. It was interesting seeing designers tackling with the issue of being practical while having their ideas remain on the garments. As usual, the coat took over the catwalks in its many forms —fur and leather still made an appearance but most designers went for the more unexpensive wool and tweed or the ever-classic cashmere. FW10 trends will be monopolised by layers more than ever. Some combinations that might have seemed nonsensical in the past become the protagonists of this season (see Rag & Bone). Velvet, which is a constant in menswear, made a big-time comeback in the shape of dresses (see Altuzarra) that looked somehow like shabby medieval gowns. However, if I were to choose my favourite trend it would be, by far, the maxi skirt and oversized cardigan combo. I have never been much of a boho chic fan but there is something mysteriously sensual about a woman that's not so keen on showing off her curves (see Richard Chai).

[Picture credit: Style.com]

Which one was your favourite collection from NYFW?

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Oh, oobee doo I wanna be like you

Every season I wait and I wait to see his picture on The Sartorialist and Jak & Jill. But it never happens. The reason why someone as cool and delightfully sartorial as Derek Blasberg (editor of fashion news and special projects for V and VMan magazine) doesn't get his well-deserved mentions completely escapes me. On top of V and VMan he is also in charge of the people and parties column of style.com and often writes for Harper's Bazaar and the Sunday Times and Interview. If a successful career wasn't enough, he can proudly say he counts amongst his friends the über-cool Mary-Kate Olsen (he edited "Influence"), Rachel Zoe and Leigh Lezark. I suppose that, in a way, he is cooler than everyone else precisely because of all this. So I will continue to enjoy his perfectly put-together outfits that include the kind of jumpers and sock colours my wardrobe longs for.

[Picture credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

UPDATE: Derek, if you ever read this again, thanks so much for your tweet answer. It made my day!

mum, I make my own clothes

As someone would say, Rodarte was beyond. Every time I'm about to watch a runway show by someone I admire (be it in person, video or pictures) I have this conflict in my mind —They can't do wrong, but what if they do? What if they've gone bonkers and totally missed the point? Well, as I dealt with this little internal debacle of mine the Rodarte FW10 show finally started and then my doubts were blown away.
I loved the music, the dominance of whites and the shoes —some espadrille-like derivates more folky than the wedge ones we've seen before. I quite dug the slightly baggy virginal lace that covered arms and legs. The layering and fascinating mixture of fabrics were somewhat ethereal yet realistic and skilfully draped, twisted and shredded in the Rodarte manner that we know and love. I couldn't keep California out of my mind and kept wondering whether this was some sort of return to their roots —a doubt that still wanders my mind due to the lousy sound of the interview with the Mulleavys after the show.
The finale was pretty amazing. As the last four models stood in the middle the lights dimmed and switched to neons that gave a very different view of the dresses and even more magical. As Elvis uttered the first lines of the quite appropriate 'Blue Moon' the rest of the models walked the runway once again given the impression that it was a whole new collection.

[Screen captures from the streaming show at ShowStudio]

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not okay

I feel the need to beg to stop it before it's too late. I love the fact that military inspiration is ever-present on FW collections year after year because it means I can always find khaki jackets with pleats on the back and golden buttons. Rag & Bone and Wayne have taken it too far but. It's the third day of NYFW and I already have spotted a worrying amount (more than once) of camouflage prints so far. I am hoping it will be an isolated issue only happening in New York but I can't help but wonder if I'll be wrong. I have never been a fan of the print, in any colour size or shape and I really need reassurance. Are you for or against camouflage?

[Picture credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

green with a red soul

Last night I watched the first episode of Kell on Earth —which I recommend to anyone that truly loves the fashion industry— where Kelly Cutrone, amongst other things, organises David Delfín's SS10 fashion show at NYFW. This made me realise I have never spoken of David Delfín in soVIPzone. It might be that I take certain Spanish designers for granted because they were always there while I first started to learn about fashion. In any case he is someone to have in mind. He has been taking Spanish fashion forward for the last ten years and his SS10 collection deserves a mention because the colour palette was superb and the shoes (in collaboration with Christian Louboutin) awe-striking.

After having a new look at the collection my brain rapidly started looking for ways for me to get a hold of any of the pieces (I am inquiring about the shoes —not sure if they'll be going into production). Luckily, my birthday coincides with the beginning of the SS10 season and with the Easter break so I migh be flying back from Madrid with a couple of "hospital green" (as coined by Style.com) items in my suitcase. I would particularly die if a pair of green patent leather shoes were among those items.

[Picture credits: YoDona.com, Tacoon.com]

See the rest of the shoes here. Do you love them or what?

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femme fatale

Derek Lam came up with a striking collection of classics and not-so-much-so reminiscent of the powerful and sensual women from film noir. Click here to read my review of the collection.

[Picture credit: 212DressingRoom.com]

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new GLAMOUR

NYC Fashion Week has provided us with some gems during these times of crisis. Click here for my review of the Joseph Altuzarra collection. An up-and-coming designer that has created highly body-con garments with an understated sensuality.

[Picture credit: Style.com]

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prêt-a-pour-MOI

Even though Men's Fashion Week came and went and the shows occurring at the moment in NYC should be entirely devoted to womenswear, there has been some room for the last of men's collections. I present you with my two favourites and with Antonio Azzuolo, an Italian designer whose creations seem almost custom-made pour moi and my best buddy —Chuck Bass, that is. Have a look.

Sartorial at its best. Elements from different fashion epochs merge to create these extremely up-to-date collection with a touch of Italian cool and exquisite tailoring.

Give me some rolled-up trousers and a semi-loose cardigans and I am on board. Loden Dager was all about simple ensembles brought to life by means of a subtle game of textures and colours. It does feel a bit too springy but there is nothing a good pair of argyle wool socks and a coat cannot mend.

Street style meets nerd. Trousers stay up (wonder how long they are going to keep it up) and waists do the same. Fits loosen up to give that air of illness to the skinny community. The outfits do not thrill me as a whole but as separate pieces the garments are priceless.

[Picture credits: Men.Style.com, AntonioAzzuolo.com]

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american WONDERS

When I started hearing that many fashion houses had decided to call off their bi-annual catwalk shows due to the so-called recession I made a grin of disappointment. But seeing that so far I do not get a sit on the first row anyway it seems like a good way to have the closest thing to a closer look at the clothes. It is almost like staring at clothes mug-shots. Nonetheless, I am quite looking forward to seeing some of my favourite women coming in and out of the tent in Bryant Park. Of all the collections published up until now there have been three that have really caught my eye.

Personally, I am not a big fan of being a colour parade in the winter but Peter Som's collection makes me want to rethink my resolution. The mixture of neon prints seems a little reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's last collection and the shapes make me think of Balenciaga's peplums. However, there is something fresh and new about the outfits and their psychedelic furry companions that simply screams "wear me!".

Jenny Kayne's collection was just stunning. It does not get better than simple and chic and this is both. I can picture Alexa Chung and her sexy voice in most of there ensembles. Geeky and slick, just how I like it.

Although not as impressive as the previous two collections, Rachel Roy's lingerie approach to womenswear seems highly suggestive. The absence of tops and the appearance of bras underneath oversized tailored pieces is something of an elegant sexual nature. I loathe the shoes but I can see in my mind a few of the most stylish celebrities in these.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

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project ORANGE

First of, I want to apologize to those who will have Project Runway's finale spoiled for reading this. I myself encountered a dilemma, should I or should I not sneak a peek at the celebrity guest judge? Well, the web is wide (hence www) and I did not really have a choice. I've been missing Project Runway season 4 since the very beginning, I'm sad because that show really kept me well entertained. The only thing I will now spoil, since that's too the only treat I've given myself before I actually whatch the show, is the guest judge part. Formidable stiff icon Victoria Beckham pulled off a beautiful tangerine gown by Versace with the appropiate matching shoes, clearly one of her fashion signatures.

Whose fruit do you like better, VB's or Giselle's high neck?

[Credit photos: JustJared]

I'm off.