Showing posts with label S/S 2011. Show all posts
Showing posts with label S/S 2011. Show all posts

Friday, March 11

Versace Atelier SS11

VersaceAtelierSS11a
I first posted the pictures of this collection about a month ago I was kindly asked by the Versace people to take them down because they had been leaked. I understand they have now been officially released to I can repost this. It made sense for the pictures not to come out until now because so many Oscar attendees, and Jessica Alba at the BAFTA's, donned many of the looks. And I repeat what I said then. I can't understand how this collection was labeled as boring when Gucci's bland attempt at quasi-Couture (their Premiere line) was so warmly received. It's not Versace Atelier's best by a mile (that happened in 2009) but most of the line is still much better than Marchesa's or Elie Saab's. If you overlook the slight copy of that Givenchy dress, it's a very good collection.
I'm off.

[Pictures: Celebrity-Gossip.net, RedCarpet-FashionAwards.com]

Thursday, February 10

A Rodarte kind of life

I don't know if any of you are avid followers of the Nowness. I have been reading, watching and being in daily awe since I discovered the website shortly after its launch in February last year. This week, or last Tuesday to be more precise, they published the long anticipated Rodarte short film, 'The Curve of Forgotten Things', directed by Todd Cole and starring Elle Fanning. I am a sucker for the Mulleavy sisters' aesthetic and have become very interested in Elle over the last few months despite not having yet seen 'Somewhere'. I have, however, seen her at plenty of press tour events wearing a fair share of Valentino and not enough although quite memorable SS11 Rodarte. Like this dress, a version of which she dons in the film.

Coincidentally, the release of the Rodarte short film happened on the same week as the Mulleavy's collection for Opening Ceremony hit the online store. This collection, while devised as a kind of diffusion line, is made up by as many well made desirable pieces as their main one. The sandy, beige and golden colour palette with a strong presence of tapestry fabrics is very much in line with what we saw on the runway. The only difference is there are a lot more separates —they do more pants for OC and also more accessories. The sunglasses and the shoes are a favourite of mine. Particularly the low cowboy boots in the oversized paisley material. Check out the whole collection here.
RodarteforOCss11
I'm off.

[Pictures: openingceremony.us]

Monday, January 3

Tom Ford SS11

I hope everyone is enjoying the New Year! As I'm getting back to normal mode and start thinking of posting again and as Giulia finishes turning Milan upside down and teaching them how one dresses during the holidays I thought soVIPzone's first post of the year had to be the video of Tom Ford's SS11 super secret show. We (or I, at least) have enjoyed the numerous previews in the shape of editorials, sneak peeks and guest-edited magazines but this is the real deal. Enjoy it, we'll be back before you can say Francesco Scognamiglio.
I'm off.

PS. How amazing does Julia Restoin-Roitfeld?!
PS2. What did everyone wear for NYE? Send in your pics to sovipzone@hotmail.com and the best dressed will be featured this week!

Thursday, December 16

The best PR for the best collection

I am extremely happy to see how after the last London Fashion Week some of my favourite British designers have really raised their PR game. Erdem is the best example of this. They have been doing an extraordinary job not only because we have been seeing their FW10 and SS11 collections non-stop over the past weeks but because the famous faces who have worn their dresses are the most stylish at the moment. Carey Mulligan's long number at the Dubai Film Festival reminded me of one of my favourite Keira moments from last spring, which was unforgettable. As was Michelle Williams' red lace look from the London premiere of Blue Valentine. It was also Michelle who wore another of my preferred dresses from the collection at another Blue Valentine press tour appearance. Less memorable but equally lovely were Lea Michele, Jessica Biel and Anne Hathaway.
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But yesterday twitter brought my way another Erdem moment that will linger in my mind for a while. Jessica Alba shared a twitpic of herself in one of the brand's SS11 floral skirts and made me die. I like the fact that the skirt is the protagonist of the look and how she looks quite minimal but super stylish. I'm not quite sure what she does when she wears something but it's like magic happens. That's why I keep posting about her on soVIPzone.
Coincidentally, I attended the Starworks press day a while ago where the Swarovsky people were showing some of the London designers they had collaborated with for the SS11 season. Erdem was among them. It was incredible to be able to take a look at the clothes so closely. I loved how the brand's signature floral prints have become digital this season. They give the clothes a more contemporary feel and mixed with the Swarovky crystals and the hand-made collars and lace detailing the garments become feminine with an air of demure romanticism.
ErdemSS11
I'm off.

[Jessica Alba's twitter, Style.com, soVIPzone's]

Thursday, November 18

Introducing: Kamola SS11

KamolaSS11
When I think back, one of the best things about taking my first course at LCF was to meet all these people who would go on to do very different things in the industry after university. Kamola is one of those people. She first attended the prestigious Instituto Marangoni before moving to London and spending the last three years laying the foundations for her namesake brand and putting together her first collection for FW10.
Kamola has, since then, been brought on by On|Off at their numbernine store and showed her SS11 line. Last weekend, I was lucky enough to attend their preview where I had the rare treat of choosing what I wanted to see on the model! The collection is quite simply a breath of fresh air. Kamola has shifted from the femme noir body-con she did for winter to a very modern aesthetic based on structure. She cleverly played with angles creating interesting looks like the side-slit silk shorts paired with the asymmetric printed top. My favourite part of the collection, however, were the exquisite prints. Kamola personally handpicked them in Uzbekistan (her home country) where they are all handmade with silk. The result is extraordinary on the inside of the garments. The collection is completed with a beautiful colour palette (soft yellows, apple greens and pale pinks) and selective silks and chiffons, which play with the concept of a structured sexiness in the most contemporary manner.
Check out the rest of the SS11 collection and the FW10 line at Kamola's website.
You can buy Kamola online at Lila Boutique, Not just a label.
I'm off.

[Pictures: Kamola, soVIPzone]

Tuesday, November 16

First look: Tom Ford SS11

It's not easy for me to accurately talk about Tom Ford without being borderline cheesy. And this is because the 10-year bracket during which he forever imprinted his signature in Gucci and YSL was also the period of my life when I heartily got into fashion. He was, together with Giorgio Armani, the designer who could never cease to awe me season after season. Little did I know then that Ford was resurrecting the Italian and French icons while building on his influences for the future.
It has now been another 10 years since Tom Ford officially announced the creation of his namesake brand in 2005. We have been enjoying his superbly refined menswear since 2007, which coincided with the opening of his first flagship store in New York, and his acclaimed directorial debut with 'A Single Man'. Nonetheless, the most exciting of his ventures (I daresay) is his first womenswear collection presented during the last New York Fashion Week.
And Ford was not joining back in by the rules. He showcased his collection at a 100-guest cocktail party where attendees were banned from taking pictures. There were no Style.com pictures, no online streaming, the clothes would't appear on editorials until January and celebrities wouldn't sport any of the looks until December. A rebellious Fordian twist going against the current rushed pace of the industry, which worked as well as a genius PR campaign.
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Before we get to see the full collection on Vogue Paris' January 2011 issue we can calm our thirst for Tom-Ford-ness with the December issue of American Vogue. Steven Meisel was in charge of capturing the first public look at Ford's SS11 collection for women, beautifully styled by Camilla Nickerson. There is an incredibly contemporary feel to the dominating 20's vibe of the collection. The long-sleeved night gowns share the limelight with tailored pieces reminiscent of YSL's Le Tuxedo and yet strongly influenced by Ford's mens suiting. I don't want to speak to soon but judging but what we can see so far Ford's womenswear positions itself at the top of the market, joining places with Chanel, Lanvin and Givenchy and all the other quasi-Couture prêt-à-porter.
TomFordSS11firstlook2b
After seeing this, I simply can't wait to see what Vogue Paris does with the whole collection. I can picture Carine in the leopard and white suits walking across Les Tuilleries. Not to mention Tom's list of celebrity friends, who will work the red carpet in his designs. Do notice that the collection will hit stores in February —in perfect time for the early March Academy Awards! In the meantime, I will rejoice every second of my life with this image below as my laptop wallpaper.
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I'm off.

[Picures: Bryanboy, TFS]

Monday, November 15

make your DAY

You might remember DAY Birger et Mikkelsen from a post I made this summer. Ever since then I have been obsessed with the brand, which is why I was more than thrilled when they invited me to their SS11 preview. Their beautiful London showroom and the people from Varg PR together with the incredible collection made my trip to Little Venice worthwhile. I specially loved the knitwear and a very thin kind of suede that seemed perfect for the summer. Some of their stand-out pieces like the sequinned red knit cardigan or the chandelier bolero are perfect timeless adds to anyone's wardrobe and simpler pieces like the fringed t-shirts and dresses are definitely musts for effortless summer looks.

DAY B&M SS11 preview3
The different colour palettes respond to everyone's needs for the summer season. My particular favourites were the salmon and orange pieces for every time of the day. From the satin shorts to the new take on the breton t-shirts to the embroidered strappy night tops there is close to nothing one wouldn't want to wear on their cool beach getaway.
DAY B&M SS11 preview1
Lilacs and earthy tones took over another of the sections. I am a sucker for khaki so any jacket, short, cargo pant or jumper in this colour I love. All of these choices went in a more city-oriented direction. They have the same lightness and ease as the more beachy line but felt a tad more sophisticated, even work-appropriate. Some of the embellished jackets are also perfect day-to-evening garments you can wear to work and go out in.
DAY B&M preview2
You can get a hold of DAY Birger et Mikkelsen at Net-a-Porter, My Wardrobe and at their online store
I'm off.

[Pictures: soVIPzone]

Tuesday, November 9

I carry the sun in a golden clutch, the moon in a silver bag

Last week Giulia and I stopped by the Roger Vivier shop on Sloane Street to see what the iconic French brand had in store for next season. The collection has been named "Le Sud" to conjure up the chicness of popular summer getaways like the South of France, the North of Africa and the Italian Riviera. The sun, the sea and the vibrant colours of plants and fruits evoke the relaxed fun typical of the summer season. Giulia and I loved how bold graphics like a pink lobster or unexpected materials like colourful plastic rings make up beautiful clutches a woman of any age would easily pull off. It was over these bolder pieces that Giulia died for. I was more fond of the tan leathers and beiges, like the openwork boots and sandals. And we were both smitten with the clutch, heels and flat sandals decorated decorated with golden bubbles that reminded us of champagne of caviar. The "diligence" and "Miss Viv" bags were our two absolute favourites. They're extremely classic but absolutely contemporary bags so it's no surprise Carla Bruni became so infatuated with the second she now collaborates with Bruno Frisoni, the house's artistic director, to reinvent it season after season. Hope you enjoy the video as much as we enjoyed the collection!



The FW10 shoes were quite amazing as well. They were inspired by military and royal motifs from times of Napoleon such as the famous fleur-de-lis. This inspiration was also present in the choice of materials. Black felt was combined with rich golden threads to create a beautiful ankle boot. Go to their website to have a look at the rest of the stunning winter line.
I'm off.

PS. I do apologise for the poor light and my bad pulse during some moments of the video. I tried to fix it but that's as far as I could go without losing the colour.

Friday, November 5

Thinking ahead: Tod's SS11

TodsSS11previewA couple of weeks ago Giulia and I were lucky enough to preview what the Italian staple Tod's will make us want to wear next season. We were warmly welcomed at their Old Bond Street store where we enjoyed Prosecco in an amazing sea of shoes. They are best known for their "gommini", the suede and leather loafers that any woman wears across the world from Milan to New York, passing Barcelona and London, of course. Giulia an I were gladly surprised by the range of accessories that they offer on top of shoes. G absolutely "died" over the leather detailed cuffs, their suede lace-up heels and the incredibly light and soft croc bags.

We tried to edit down the choice of our favourite pieces but having so many beautiful colours and materials made this really hard. Would we go for the fuchsia croc loafers or for the python ones? Maybe the yellow suede? So we ended up making a short video so you can choose for yourself. If it were up to us we'd have them all in our wardrobe!

I also recommend you to pay a visit to their website. They have celebrated their collaboration with Milan's Teatro alla Scala with an unbelievable video. It is a dance allegory of the making of their famous "gommini". You'd think this is another of those nonsense fashion videos but you'd be missing out. I was in absolute awe of the impressive choreography, which perfectly represents every step of the creation process from the pebble fitting to the trimming.
TodsTeatroallaScala
I'm off.

[Pictures: soVIPzone, Tod's]

Monday, October 18

Water marked


KateBosworthNO21
Kate Bosworth is on the move! She is one of my favourite
celebrities in terms of fashion and she has been out and about
in Hollywood for the last few days, which is synonym for great photocall moments like this one.
Bosworth loves simplicity and minimalism  on clothes so it was pretty much a 'no brainer' for her to wear No. 21. She chose a beautiful lilac silk and chiffon number from the brand's FW10 collection, which was a perfect choice because it was simple enough for her style yet interesting enough for us. I love how it slowly becomes intricate as you go down, finishing off with an asymmetric frilly trim.

And so I decided to look at what No. 21 proposed for SS11. Even though they're only on their second season I am already a big fan. I was devastated when Alessandro dell'Acqua put an end to his namesake brand so it came as a relief when he created No. 21. Just like we saw with many other designers this season, the collection roots for sportswear. But it does so bringing in extremely fragile and feminine materials the likes of silk, silk crepe, chiffon and cotton and a muted colour palette only accentuated with the odd print and sexy red. Dell'Acqua played with asymmetry once again.  Skirts and dresses became longer on the sides and pleat details unevenly spread across the waist. An extremely chic minimalistic option that will shortly become an international hit.

No.21SS11
I'm off.

[Pictures: JustJared.buzznet.com, Style.com]

Thursday, October 14

You're either in or you're out

CherylinVOSOVICAs a foreigner who has lived in the UK for a while and made a big effort to be absorbed by British culture one of the first things I had to do was religiously sit in front of the tv every Saturday night to watch the X Factor. But not only watch, I had to show great genuine enthusiasm or anger for the my favourite contestants. Honestly speaking, it didn't take long until I was a convert. And now I can't live without it. The year after I lost my X Factor virginity the panel of judges welcomed Cheryl Cole, whom I had never looked at twice. And it was then that our (or my) love story started. I am irresistibly attracted to her face and her accent. Little did I know she'd try and become the fashion-statement maker of the show. I admit she is yet to master such an art. In fact, she provided fashion catastrophes such as that signed by David Koma. This time, though, she seems to be toning it down, playing it safer. But I can smell something good coming up.
I can't complain so far. For the first live show of the season she donned a dress by one of my favourite young designers —Daniel Vosovic. I didn't expect this choice at all. In fact, I originally though the dress was by Antonio Berardi. Vosovic was one of the finalists of Project Runway season 2 and one of my favourite contestants as of yet. He showed such class and taste and his dress-amking skills were rather sharp for someone so fresh off FIT. I had lost track of him for a couple of seasons but he came back on my radar after he showed his SS11 collection in the last edition of NYFW.
The collection mainly focused on utilitarian chic, taking elements from menswear and working garments and very feminine and fragile fabrics and having them worn by a tough woman. It almost seemed as if the collection was intended as a high-fashion option for camping attire —as if you took Unique's FW10 runway and brought it to Central Park. Vosovic also played with digital prints, something he had never done before, on velvet panels which draped over gauze and mesh to form dresses. I can't understand why more attention hasn't been given to him, I am certainly watching.
DanielVosovic
I'm off.

[Pictures: NYmag.com, Redcarpet-fashionawards.com]

Tuesday, October 12

Inside out

We're back! Sorry for the few days absence but Giulia and I felt like taking a little break after the very intense fashion month coverage. From now on we'll be reporting on the rest of the shows we loved as well as on anything relevant for FW10. Today's post comes from the hand of two very close people to me —my sister Paloma (left) and my favourite Spanish fashionista Paula (right). They were kind enough to attend the SS11 Ana Locking show during Madrid Fashion Week as Giulia and I couldn't make it because it coincided with LFW. Big thanks to my sis for taking the pictures and to Pau for writing the review of the collection.
Paula&PalomaMadridFW
Red light panels, loud electronic music, and then, there was light. Ana Locking opened in Madrid Cibeles fashion week, to a show filled with psychedelic designs, transparencies, asymmetrical shapes, and magical lace. INSIDES was the name given to the collection, and it was that exactly which inspired the prints and the colours, pictures of the insides of the human body viewed through a microscopic lens, introducing abstract compositions that reminded of innocent and beautiful sites of terrestrial nature.
The weight appropriate models, as Cibeles fashion week rules establish, marched down the runway with dresses in various warm colours, and lace dresses and skirts that belong in the closet of Goddess Dello Russo. Above all, the show was rather provocative, the lace and transparencies were truly a pleasure for the eye, as were the dresses and trousers that flowed as if drawing the shapes of the wind. There was a certain juxtaposition, in pairing up the trousers, and the lace skirts and dresses, with clean cut blazers displaying a bare back, and held together with leather belts, which broke the sobriety of such a classic garment. Locking portrays a woman comfortable in her own skin (or insides in this case), with low back and necklines, provocative and sexy, yet subtle and elegant enough, to wear anywhere, from a yacht party in Corcega, to dinner at sunset in Ibiza. Ana Locking dressed the outside with the insides, combined lace and leather, used asymmetrical lines and clean cuts, and merged science and fashion, to a final triumphant result, giving us all yet another reason to keep Madrid Cibeles Fashion Week on our radar.
AnaLockingSS11
Check out Ana Locking's website here. You can also follow my sister and Paula on twitter to see what they get up to.
I'm off.

[Pictures: Ana Locking, soVIPzone]

Wednesday, October 6

It's gonna be alright

When I found out about Alexander McQueen's passing I told myself I would never like anyone's creations for his namesake brand. Then I worried about the house's future if no one could find somebody who could remotely fill Lee's shoes. Shortly after this rush of sentiments, the LVMH group announced Sarah Burton's appointment as new creative director. Knowing she had spent 15 years very close to McQueen gave me hope. But it wasn't until yesterday that we finally learnt we can rest assured everything's going to be alright. The space for the SS11 collection set a much more relaxed mood that we are used to for these shows, which seemed to be Burton's add to the brand. She played with the idea of a queen of nature. Leather leaves, pheasant feathers, butterflies and golden poison ivy wrapped around the body and shared space with McQueen's gilded staples typical of monarchic outfitting. Not only Burton didn't disappoint but she aroused an excitement we thought gone.
McQueen-ValentinoSS11
Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri finally found a path for Valentino. After seasons of creative wandering around they started walking in the right direction on their last Couture collection and they successfully translated that vision for the prêt-á-porter line. The Italian duo wanted "dangerous refinement", made evident in the combination of materials; a tough straw lace skirt paired up with delicate Chantilly lace. Ruffles and bows, which had characterised previous collections, blended into the pieces instead of becoming protagonists. Chiffon played the biggest role on the evening wear, floating like a sophisticated jellyfish over simple, harder shapes in line with the juxtaposition of the delicate and the dangerous. The overall feel of the SS11 line was much younger (very celebrity-appealing) and focused but miles away from Garavani's legacy, which has now been reduced to a mere tag.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Coco Lagerfeld

If I didn't know any better I would have thought Karl Lagerfeld's mind had been on holiday for the last two seasons. His last couple of collections for Chanel were undeniably innovative but one could hardly see any of Gabrielle Chanel's essence in them. For SS11 the Kaiser has changed that. He disobeyed last season's pas de noir rule, purposely avoided colour blocking and payed a visit to the house's archives. The collection wasn't fashion-forward, it was current —something very few people can achieve— and it combined traditional tweeds and camellia prints with modern materials from around the world. The absence of yeti attire called for a different type of extravagance, which came in the shape of outstanding workmanship very close to that of couture. Hair was substituted by feather embroidery and taken to the extreme on the apricot ostrich feather look worn by Karmen Kass.
ChanelSS11
Everything was framed by a modern take of a jardin français, which took over the Petit Palais, fountains included. Over 80 models strolled around the garden. Anja Rubik, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Freja Beha Erichsen were joined by Brad Koenig (son in hand), Baptiste Giabiconi and even Inès de la Fressange, who hadn't walked for Chanel in decades.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Tuesday, October 5

Yves revisited

YSLss11If you read soVIPzone often you probably know already how incredibly fond of Yves Saint Laurent I am. I admire Stefano Pilati's work for the house so much that I tend to be slightly subjective when a new collection comes out. This, however, is not one of those moments. After a couple of slightly unfocused seasons, Pilati turned to the YSL archives to find inspiration for a collection we won't forget easily. He revisited the trench coat, the safari jacket and the über-famous Le Smoking, which he turned into a silk night gown ruffled at the sides and beautifully worn by Freja Beha Erichsen. Ruffles were, in fact, quite present on Cuban-inspired skirts and dresses, which Pilati perked up with dashes of bright colour. Yet black, white and sand ruled the colour palette. The sheer trend we have been seeing so far only left a slight mark on the collection as the designer preferred to bare the back. Parisian sophisticated elegance at its best.  

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Sunday, October 3

Collage Sunday, PFW Edition

ParisSS11recapONEToday I decided to blend together Collage Sunday and Paris Fashion Week in the shape of a visual catch up. Some of the biggest names from the French capital showed in the last couple of days and we saw a bit of a change. Balenciaga took on Marni's challenge to create luxurious sportswear. Ghesquière showed us a boyish punk point of view mixed with dug out archive pieces. It was, as Balenciaga always is, rather technically intricate in the most interesting manner. Alber Elbaz's twist on the Lanvin woman was one of the biggest surprises (to me) from Paris. He always addresses his collections from a woman's point of view, which this time resulted in a vast assortment of wardrobe options in a way that redefined modern elegance.

As much as I've always adored John Galliano, I must confess I have often wondered if I was the only one who noticed his themes chez Christian Dior were too recurrent or if I was a mere ignorant. As it turns out, he is capable of making fresh clothes à la Galliano. For SS11 he traveled to Hawaii with his couture collection, which transformed into effortless silk numbers of tropical motifs and hues with a slight 50's air and masculine sailor-inspired parkas. Margiela's collection started following last season's line but soon morphed into an experiment of shape abstraction. Nicole Phelps, from Style.com, said the collection fell flat. I dare to disagree because, even though it is 100% unwearable it pushed the envelope shape-wise. After all, it was MMM who first introduced the pronounced shoulder shapes we came to love.
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com, GaranceDore.fr]

Thursday, September 30

Moon & Earth

I first heard of Hakaan last season when the web swarmed with news of the Roitfelds flying to London only to watch his show. I was curious to see what was so especial about the Turkish designer whose line I had never yet Carine and Julia couldn't miss. Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised. Which is why I was disappointed to learn that he wasn't showing in London this season but excited to see what he had created for SS11. This collection was overall less body-con than FW10. He still sent a few mini dresses with his signature pelmets but the silhouettes were slightly more relaxed. There were plenty of tailored trousers and jumpsuits, which varied from the baggy to the skin-tight. Cut-outs, always in triangular shapes, revealing or suggesting necklines and hips in the sexiest manner. But the inspiration seemed to be otherworldly this time. White's supremacy evoked an alien world of modern minimalism as did the odd light grey pieces and the few black ones that were a perfect fit for Morticia Addams.
HakaanSS11
Rochas SS11 put a smile on my face. I was happy to see a new and fresh take on the overused countryside inspiration. Marco Zanini said he simply amalgamated all his favourite things for the collection, and these things show. There was true sentiment, almost romanticism, in the clothes. As it turns out, the Swedish countryside, where half of his heart lies. And so he commissioned Slotts Barbro's  Swedish pictorial work for Rochas' prints. One of the most charming collections we have seen so far.
RochasSS11
I'm off.

[Pictures: Vogue.fr, Style.com]

Fade to white

DriesVanNotenSS11For SS11, the Dries Van Noten woman finds a relaxed elegance through light and colour. The designer was mainly inspired by the work of Belgian painter Jef Verhenyen by and old Chinese ceramics. Verhenyen's unique way of capturing light in his paintings translated onto the clothes in the shape of degradés that made it seem as if colour had ran out halfway through production. Chinese ceramic motifs, a recurrent theme for Van Noten, flooded silk tops, dresses and trousers. Opposite these very feminine effects we saw an almost boyish approach to the tailoring —boyfriend blazers, oversized tuxedo jackets and shirt dresses. The surprise of the show were the few paillete-embelished pieces and the shiny flower-embroidered jacket, which strongly contrasted with the season's dominant white.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Wednesday, September 29

You got Kane'd

VersusSS11Just as it happened to Miu Miu, Versus is walking steadily towards establishing itself as a respected fashion label rather than a giant's diffusion line. Ever since Donatella Versace brought Christopher Kane on board three seasons ago Versus started to become the young, cool and sexy tentacle of the Medusa's head. The SS11 collection was a repetition of über-girly shapes, plaid and florals. It was almost reminiscent of Luella's rebel Punk schoolgirl is she had ever been to boarding school in Italy. Button downs, plaited skirts and badged cardigans were the protagonists. And it's there where we could see Kane's mark —in the Westwood-esque stripes, the sheer tartan and his unmistakable geometric shapes and skirt pleating. More in line with the season's trends, we saw some mesh and some rather clever colour blocking with florals and circusy dresses.

I'm off.

PS. This is the last from Milan. Stay tuned for all the fashion from Paris. Dries Van Noten today! Follow us on twitter for up-to-the minute-updates!

[Pictures: Style.com]

Monday, September 27

Luxury sportswear

MarniSS11Having seen a calmer side of Marni during the past few seasons it came as almost a shock when the SS11 collection went back to the house's über-eccentric roots. Consuelo Casteglioni, who created Marni in 1994, reminded her audience why her brand became a cult in the first place by bringing together sportswear and luxury. The models walked out turned into sophisticated scuba-divers wearing soft leather, mesh and wet suit fabric cut and ruffled like ordinary dresses and layered over cycling shorts. A fusion taken to the extreme on the maxi-sequinned looks toward the end of the show. Castiglioni made of colour play and prints a statement. The latter varied from the vintage to the contemporary pixelated florals. All of it quirkily topped off with swimming hats, Marni's infamous shades and chunky heels and aerodynamic hair.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]