LFW fw11: Print Heaven

It makes me excited to see so many good collections being talked, blogged and tweeted about. London has been reclaiming its place in fashion ever since the return of Burberry and it seems to me that this season is making clear the city's got its place back. Jonathan Saunders was probably the one collection I was most disappointed not to have tickets to. His fw11 line was all about contrasting the traditional and the innovative. The classic prints were remade into cool and exciting graphic motifs for the silk skirts and shirts, which came in bold combinations of tangerine, turquoise and neon green. I loved how the two combined made the classic pencil skirts and blouses dynamic and fresh. Saunders also introduced menswear this season, which was also very much talked about. Read more about that soon on Fashion, Frankly.

And it seems prints are the trend in London. Also on Saturday, Clements Ribeiro showed their extremely interesting take on prints. The design duo, who, if you care for some gossip, are also a couple in real life, focused on the fusion of prints rather than on the variety. I found very intriguing how they managed to create a kind of degradé between a leopard and a more traditional brocade pattern and then back to leopard again, all of it trimmed with ultramarine blue silk. I love how designers are starting to use technology more and more to create new ways of doing print. And I loved how Clements Ribeiro made a point out of their prints, leaving their clothes in a slightly secondary role.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Fade to white

For SS11, the Dries Van Noten woman finds a relaxed elegance through light and colour. The designer was mainly inspired by the work of Belgian painter Jef Verhenyen by and old Chinese ceramics. Verhenyen's unique way of capturing light in his paintings translated onto the clothes in the shape of degradés that made it seem as if colour had ran out halfway through production. Chinese ceramic motifs, a recurrent theme for Van Noten, flooded silk tops, dresses and trousers. Opposite these very feminine effects we saw an almost boyish approach to the tailoring —boyfriend blazers, oversized tuxedo jackets and shirt dresses. The surprise of the show were the few paillete-embelished pieces and the shiny flower-embroidered jacket, which strongly contrasted with the season's dominant white.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

HARDCORE cold, part II

As promised, here it is!

Since we, men, have always been a little left behind in fashion matters I decided to add four more looks to the original twenty this special was supposed to include. Behold the art created for Fall/Winter 2007.



Alessandro Dell'Acqua includes bright hues in the shape of coats and jackets. Red dances with grey and black, giving them just the exact touch of modernity without being over the top.


It is quite suprising to find a Fall collection for which fresh is the best description. But McQueen thought it right; his models and outfits look like they were taken out of a Ken "Barbie" doll box and maximized to fit a human. There is always something spiritual about Alexander's creations.


Does it look familiar? Duh. Balenciaga's men line shares inspiration with that devoted to women, for once we get to enjoy of the strongest trends of the season. Pants widen up just enough to let us walk more comfortably and still look cool. Genious.


Christopher Bailey is a lucky man. This season's trends include as an important focal point trench coats, which instantly rockets Burberry Prorsum to the head of coats-selling for Winter. Ink blue and oversize are to be considered if you want to look hot this season.


Calvin Klein collection leaves its usual monochromatic inclinations to broaden the color range. The magnificent simplicity that has always made special the brand allowes it to include bright colors with no risk of looking tacky. Take a look at the leather two-pieces nobody will wear.


Once again, color is not a key word however it does show up several times in the collection. Coats go up to the waist to let the long sweaters show. Think Costume National. Think GREY.


Used as we should be to Dior's rockstar looks, it came as a great surprise that skinny and rehab would keep company to that look this season. I would definitely say it is a pretty interesting statement as it is to be able to put together any particular trend with an especific style.


Could anyone please tell Domenico and Steffano to come out out the bubble? it must have a little hole, though, because despite it they got the season's trends to their collection. I sort of find amusing how they put together their amazing jeans with an awful silver oversized wool sweater. Try to survive.


As womenswear did, Dsquared2's line for men has an obvious "dominatrix" inpiration. Fortunately, Dean and Dan could help dominatrix to be all over the place and bring back their Canadian view for most of the mens collection. I would definitely wear most of them.


Fendi achieves a great success in the modernization process. It adds very innovative accessories and overalls like this one in the picture to the house's classicism. I would sell myself to get that piece.


Giorgio Armani updates his signature looks with loads of fur and leather on his jackets and hats. High necks get mixed with different cuts of blazers giving the wearer elegant and modern looks like this one.


Here comes my favourite of the season. I personally love the whole hunting look. As if you were going to an idyllic british cottage and really desire to look wonderful at all times. Gucci is totally my thing.


See? Hermés manages to do with menswear the same done with womenswear. Updated looks apparently intended for riding but so chic and yet casual that they make a remarkable piece of ready-to-wear for the nowadays' man. Signature leather and silk scarves for men; just magnificent.


A country getaway is quite a recurring theme in the winter. Designers seem to think they can go no wrong with it, well thank God! John Varvatos spiced his F/W 2007 collection with glimpses of rockstar to his looks. It almost seems like rehab in the mountains or Mr. Kobain plays in the snow. Whatever it is, no one should miss this collection.


I always have a hard time trying to classify Marc Jacobs' collections into an only category of inspiration. This season's is sort of a nerd goes cool. He mixes british preppy with his very own and undescribable style and the result was this; a compilation of very well-cut garments with the coolness only Mr. Jacobs knows how to provide his art with.


I'm starting to fear the possible fact that I do not get Michael Kors at all. I used to think I did and I adored his creations, but not lately. His last three collections have caused confusion in my mind; sometimes it seems like he tries too hard and there are times when the sensation is of lack of willingness. While I try to figure out my opinion on the New York designer, have a look at his way of introducing the season's trends into his usual thinking.


Here goes my other favourite for Fall. He is usually just swell whichever the season or the inspiration are. This time he amazes us —yet again— with his outstanding ability to bring preppy to adult men. Folks, grab some of Paul Smith's stuff and rock it at the office!


Miuccia Prada created her lines for men and women at a time. Her particular degradé settled an important trend for Fall and so did her treated and colored wool sweaters and two-pieces. It is definitely not the most wearable collection for winter but it quite a fashion statement.


I have always been into Ralph Lauren's clothing, not only for matching most of my thinking concerning fashion, but for his delicate taste in country menswear. This time, he has created his personal universe in which Robin Hood rules again in the forest but dressed more comfortably and definitely chicer. Very interesting.


Véronique Branquinho brings together formal and casual wear. It's the perfect brand to find those special and good-quality pieces you so much desire to have in the back of your wardrobe for as long as you live. Classic with a touch of authenticity.


American preppy (yes, I'm already sick of this word) goes crazy; this is how I named Viktor & Rolf compilation of garments for the Fall. Oh, and yellow is all over the place!


Yohi Yamamoto performs a mixture of his trademarked freakness with all colors while combining them with different-cut garments to create layers and shapes.


Absolutely French-tastic! Yves Saint Laurent makes a perfect mixing with classic wool pieces and oversized sweaters and cardigans together with coats in different cuts and the wonderful dark green and mustard. Two must-colors to look really elegant in Winter.


This brand is pretty much a starter on the runway yet; however, Z Zegna reaches the perfect combination of a homeless and the old newspaper kids/Oliver Twist with just the right amount of preppy in the shape of wool goods.



This is it. My personal selection of the best 24 looks from the greatest Fall/Winter 2007 shows. Hope you have enjoyed it, I certainly have.
Stay tuned this comig week for a new update: the list of soVIP Fall reviews you'll be finding in your coolness source during September.
I'm off.

[Credit photos: style.com]

HARDCORE cold

There's less than a week of August left and it feels just right to free my desperate urge for talking winter-wear. As I advanced over a week ago, this specials which will be showing up at soVIPzone in the following two weeks will be divided in four different parts featuring my favourites from the Fall collections for women and men and the hottest accessories to culminate your looks.
Since there are more collections devoted to women than there are to men, I figured it was the thoughtful thing to start this set of four specials with womenwear.



Mr. Alexander McQueen caught my attention this year because, apart from being a genious, he managed to include the season's inspiration to his particual vision of fashion. My preferred look mixes his signature dark and ethereal with Fall 2007's fur and treated leather. He is simply unquestionable.


Balenciaga has crowned itself the most innovative and visionaire for the season; much will be talked about it so be happy because all sorts of copies are sure to appear in most of your favourite department stores. For this, the brand stands as my favourite fall collection; but we'll have more time to behold its art on its review, due to the middle of September in soVIPzone. My favourite piece combines with absolute perfection the most modern aspects of the season, like lego inspirated shoes, with ethnic touches like updated kufiyas (palestine scarves). It just is the superb urban look for those who love wearing something special but keeping it real.


This famous british house has suffered a delightful modernization since Christopher Bailey was put in charge of its creative direction. Burberry Prorsum, the most luxurious branch proposes an updating of its own classics by means of loads of black leather and metalic finishes using sequence. The outfit I chose is "living" evidence of this.


Our beloved Kaiser of fashion proves wrong, yet again, the world by re-inventing Chanel's very own tweed ensembles. This time, he managed to add with his superb sense of taste black leather and napa and the modern art prints circulating around most of the season's collections. But as he could not be less, Lagerfeld created his own trend: silk scarves tied at the waist.


I'm glad Chloé finally decided to go back to its particular and amazing style instead of keep it going puffy. But they really made it up by creating these amazing dresses, skirts and sweaters with different-shaped plastic pieces attached to them. Nobody will be able to pull off a real trendy look without wearing Chloé's black patent leather ankle-boots. Truly Chloé-licious!


Mr. and Mr. Caten are true masters of surprise; each season they come out with a collection that will not leave anyone impassive, and this season is no exception. I would probably describe their last collection as dominatrix, loads of dark leather and very short, sexy clothes plus straps and fur; can there be any other way to refer to it? It is however both genious and really their style. Hats off.


There are houses of fashion which usually go under the radar concerning clothing. Fendi is probably one of them; and it is most surely this feature wich encouraged the italian brand to push it forward this year. I would say it is Fendi who best combined the leather trends of winter and the jewel colors in fashion; and this means a great deal. Take a look at my most-liked look.


The first time I laid eyes on one of Frida Giannini's creations I almost ran away from fear. It was her first attempt of a collection in the world-famous Gucci; and it went down as a disappointment. But somehow, when summer came again, she amazed the world with her design skills and taste and it seems like it is that effects that she desires to keep rising among fashionistas. Her Fall 2007 collection makes elegance, modernity and classiness walk in unison.


The riding house, that could be a magnificent name for Hermés. I recently visited one of their stores and I have to say I was left more atonished before this alpine-inspirated piece than I was when it came to my sight on the screen. I always love how its style resumes its path through fashion updating itself to drive crazy mode lovers. Bravo.


If you're regular to my blog, you know I like to call him God, for he is a master of the arts. Giorgio Armani won't ignore his insticts once, he will embrace his beloved asian inpiration forever; and I will worship him for that. Fur "à-la-Asian", this is what my favourtie piece is. Behold.


Vogue Spain reads on its September cover: "The other man of your life". Who could else that be but Marc Jacobs? It looks like he got this year's inpiration from Salem, a town packed with witches who were publicly judged and burned alive. Long figures, black and red and wonderful hats.


Since the male couple entered Proenza Schouler the brand has "suffered" a superb improvement. It's classic, clean nowadays clothing. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are those to blame for the change. I can only say I would believe in love at first sight if she was wearing PS.


2006 has been the year for his 45th anniversary and the time for Il signore Valentino to deny the rumours of his withdraw from the Italian house. I do not believe he is ready for retirement yet either; there's still much left inside him to make it over the half century as owner and creator of the Red Heaven.


WOW!, that was my first reaction to Miuccia Prada's F/W 2007 display. Treated wool in colors I could not even name and looong sequence feathers all over the place. But then I had a few of these designs on my hands, I had the chance to feel them, to let them talk to me. And I was convinced; Miuccia can't be wrong.


Craziness is a very particual characteristic very regularly found in masters and this is just about the right term to give to John Galliano, creative director of Dior. As the house made it into its 60th anniversary, Galliano managed to squeeze a bunch of leather and fur kimono-ed pieces culminated with hut-like hats. Simply, Dior.


I became very close to Givenchy —spiritually speaking— not long ago when Liv Tyler got involved in it as the image of the fragrance "Very Irresistible". What captivates me the most about the house is that easy way to amaze that it has; is it like "there you go, another masterpiece", and so it is. They mark trends and drive everyone nuts with them. And I'm no different.


It is quite funny —if I may— when you think that some brands have survived endless eras of change without scratching themselves concerning style. Yves Saint Laurent is one of them. I particurlarly loved all the fur and leather pieces, and most specially this one, a long vest imitating the green skin of a snake. Just about enough to prove their power in craftsmanship.


I know, I know!, it looks like an Elmo costume. But, truth to be told, this piece of blue fur is quite a beauty. It's not but a simple fur vest over dark leggings and top and yet it fully dresses up the model and overshines any other clothing around. Isn't it wonderful when you come to think of it like that? Versace. Duh.


Giambattista Valli is not that known among the common public (no offence) but he really should be. This season's collection could easily be confused with Marc Jacobs'; the Salem inspiration is undeniable, as it is the inviduality this collection also has. The lines are much like Jacobs' but the whole sense of the compilation is more Puritan. Anyone wearing this would have been spared their life then.


I'm afraid something like the "leopard fever" will soon be discovered; it would be the only possible explanation for Dolce & Gabbana's late constant disasters. I only included the former couple's collection in this special because I've always loved their creations deeply and because they are, nevertheless, great designers and have introduced, even this season, awesome features. May God be with them for Spring 2008.



This is it for now. Keep checking back for the second part of the special: MALE HIGHLIGHTS, by the end of the week.
Also, you should know soVIPzone is starting to spread over the net. You can now log onto soVIPzone.com, a better and easier way to access your source of style and coolness. soVIPzone.org, .net and .es are also working to redirect you to the VIP corner of the net.
I'm off.

[Credit photos: style.com]

UPDATE!
Check out the female soVIP musts for Fall.