Miu Miu SS13: Cropped tops & fur for a femme fatale

There is a reason why Miu Miu is always the last big show of Paris Fashion Week and it was exactly because of it that I decided to watch the streaming online, which I have barely done this season. At first, I was totally taken with the venue chosen. It looked almost like a parliament room made of polished wood, the runway flanked by doric-inspired columns. As soon as the show started it made sense to me – it was a parliament alright, and Miuccia was about to do her personal coup d'état.
It was as surprising as it was interesting that Miu Miu took the 50's as inspiration because so many brands and designers have done it, including Prada, over the last few seasons. But this wasn't a collection to add to the pile. This was a new version of a femme fatale that makes her own rules, like the designer. We saw a lot of unwashed denim as long coats, loose pencil skirts and even as two-pieces suits that seemed to be intended as evening wear. Then came the ultra short cropped tops paired with said skirts and worn under long jackets and coats made of, wait for it, fur! I really do love when people don't play by the rules and it was so fun and refreshing to see fur on the runway, it made me think of that time earlier this summer when Lady Gaga herself was sporting a fur coat un August.

The Miu Miu front row was full of some of my favourite ladies: Amanda Seyfried, who looked amazing in a red Prada resort look; Emma stone, in a Miu Miu black strapless dress and Chloë Sevigny, face of Miu Miu F/W12, wore a full look by the brand proving she knows how to mix her prints.

All images courtesy of Miu Miu

Meadham Kirchhoff FW12: Interplanetary psychedelia
Style.com

The FW12 Meadham Kirchhoff was the best way to close the last London Fashion Week. Even though I was a Meadham virgin I have never felt as relaxed at a runway show. Most of the attendees looked really wacky and cool. They greeted each other and just did their thing – a refreshing attitude.
After what I had seen in pictures from previous seasons I was quite surprised by how wearable a lot of the pieces were. The lace shirts with oversize round collars, a denim jacket, jumpers and jeans were cute and quirky, perfect for every day. Some of my favourites were the tartan dress with the sequin corset or the metallic leopard print quilted skirt. I was also pretty fascinated with the fur coats, which played with a monster theme that together with 60's disco brought us to an extraterrestrial world where fashionable aliens danced to Abba.
The finale motivated a huge applause that the models accompanied with glitter while they walked backstage dragging the psychedelic fur boas to return to their home planet.

You can see the rest of the collection here and check out my video of the finale below.

Future trend: Colour-block & panelled Furs
Leeoliveira.com, Getty, Style.com

Sometimes we don't give Anna the credit she deserves as a trend-setter. I can't say for sure but it looks to me like as soon as she ordered her Céline FW11 fur coat about a year ago word went around and some of the top designers decided to add some of the new colour-blocking panelled fur to their FW12 collections.

Apart from London, we have seen pieces like these in all the other cities. In New York from The Row – the one I think Anna will be wearing next year. In Milan from Fendi, which looked a bit bolder but could work for Anna with an edited version. And in Paris a new version from Céline (I love the navy sleeves), a red-hot cropped jacket with a trail from Givenchy, and a bambi-inspired super chic coat from fur-master Révillon.

Which one will Anna Wintour be wearing for FW12?

Style.com

Look of the Day: Norma Camali at the CFDA's 50th Anniversary
Style.com

This is not the first time I post about fur heels. In fact, ever since I saw them for the first time at the fw11 Alexander Wang show they have kept growing on me.

Doing my daily tour around my usual sites I came across Aperlaï, a new shoe brand that Style.com has introduced this month. This is their second collection and I'm really keen on their designs. They're mostly very chunky heels of architectural shapes, which I find super interesting and edgy. I'm really hoping to see Giovanna Battglia or Viviana Volpicella in them during the next fashion month in September.

The collection also has more classic pieces like flats and slimmer heels. Amongst those I found the pair above, which instantly reminded me of Wang's idea. Even though I love the bicolour fur that covers the whole front of the shoe I still prefer Wang's smoother fur and peeking toe because it seems more chic.

Would you wear fur heels?

[Style.com, Polyvore]

Looking at these pictures of Mary-Kate Olsen wearing this season's hit item I realised this was also the first time I saw anyone wearing the Prada fur stole in a normal life situation. Well, as normal as the Olsens coming in and out of an airport can be. I'm surprised that it's taken her this long to wear it since they usually get clothes and accessories way ahead of season. In any case, this moment made me very happy and it makes sense for anyone who wants to buy the fur stole in question to get it in a rather muted colour, like MK's in navy, so that it's as wearable as possible.

Would you buy/wear one?

[Pictures: Just Jared]

Baby, you can drive my car

Céline is one of my favourite brands of the last few seasons. Ever since Phoebe Philo stepped in as creative director I find it intensely alluring. For fw11 minimalism acquires a certain 70's air. Philo says she was inspired by cars interiors (I love the wood prints) and you can see it in the precise but dynamic straight lines that she has used in her tailoring. Two of the most stand-out pieces of the collection have got to be the bright orange coat, which had a certain rawness to it, and the tri-colour fur coat —one of the best fur proposals from the season. I liked the sort of sportswear air to the more rigid pieces like the tailored trousers or the shirts and I found the colour palette very interesting, as some of the colours didn't appear more than once or twice. Is this the birth of aerodynamic chic?

And Phoebe is just so... Céline. She's so chic and minimal and, well, British. What else can I say?

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

The best Row

As I edited the pictures for this post I thought about Mary-Kate and Ashley's trajectory from teenage Tv superstars to style icons to fashion creative directors. They are, together with Victoria Beckham, the first celebrities to ever create collections that not only qualifies as high fashion but that reaches luxury standards. Just as Victoria's collection did two days ago, the Olsens' new line establishes them as rightful creative directors of young yet respected brands. It never ceases to amaze me how MK and Ashley manage to include their aesthetic in a way that becomes a language that whichever of their collections speaks fluently while allowing the clothes to bring something new to the season. For FW11 they have given into fur indulgence with over-the-top fox fur hats, jackets, gillets and estoles that contrast with the strong lines black tailoring and leather and with the ethereal laces and silk gauzes.

Also for FW11 The Row introduced their new collection of bags. All of them could easily fit into the twin's wardrobe easily as they clearly draw inspiration from their vintage pieces such as the Kellys, the 20's clutches and the velvet satchels. My other favourite are the black velvet and leopard printed loafers, which I hope they have included on the men's line.
I'm off.

PS. GG Fashion post coming later today.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Collage Sunday, 13.02.11: Anoraks and fluffy heels

That time that comes every six months that makes Giulia and I so happy is here again. Fashion Month kicked off last Wednesday in New York and we've already seen quite a lot of the usual NY blandness but also some of the genius names that show in the big apple. My favourites so far have been rather unexpected —Lyn Devon, Jenni Kayne, Jeremy Laing and Suno all amazed me in different ways, something which I rarely experience with NY shows. Rag & Bone keeps walking in a straight but really creative line and making collections full of hit. Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra, two of my absolute favourites from NY, showed yesterday and I was happy to find many parallelisms between their collections.

Anoraks had been denied entrance to the fashion world for years until Remo Ruffini took control of Moncler and made Thom Browne creative director. The latter reinvented the idea of luxe sportswear and centred his collections for the French brand around anoraks cut in shapes and produced in fabrics that were previously only related to tailoring. The success of Moncler in changing its perception made everyone change their mind about anoraks, which has designers turn their efforts towards this garment and made it protagonist of several FW11 collections. Wang and Altuzarra have interpreted the anorak both in its traditional coat shape but also as parkas and capes or ponchos. Wang even went as far as making a tuxedo blazer out of it. The other common element on both collections, which will also become a trend if it hasn't already, are the furry heels we saw at both shows. I wonder if they are warm even though they're pretty much sandals. Although, if Prada's chandelier sandals were a hit, why not these?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Collage Sunday, 28.11.10

London's polar weekend weather and Kylie Minogue in her Chanel coat have triggered something in me. I can't stop thinking about coats and wraps (the inedible ones) and hats and gloves and boots. And so, I've gone into my little archives to put together an inspiration collage to get warm this winter. Now, it might be fair to say the nice furs and shearling coats are on the verge of unobtainable if one doesn't have a generous credit card but no one can argue that they are, without a doubt, the best way to fight the cold while looking glamourous. Nonetheless, I am also a big fan of the new deceiving faux-furs, stylish capes and even some ponchos. One could even get away with a good-looking blanket nicely wrapped with a safety pin.  —Enjoy your Sunday!

I'm off.

[Pictures: Telegraph Fashion, Vogue Italia, TFS]

Collage Sunday, 20.11.10

I knew from they moment I chose her as the centre of my Collage Sunday that Kim Kardashian might not get the warmest welcome from fashion lovers, which would be unfair. I've never known much about her apart from the fact that she is sort of related to Brody Jenner but over the last few months she's been catching my attention a lot. I really like the drama in everything she wears and how she doesn't hold back with the accessorising —fur, big hats, thigh-high boots, Birkins... I also like the fact that she's not really trendy, which strikes as a surprise. She does wear season pieces but her personality shines through every time. Plus, she is incredibly clever about the way she choses her clothes to nicely show off her body in a sexy but not obvious way (please note her remarkable derrière). Like it or not, the woman can dress!   —Happy Sunday!

I'm off.

[Pictures: Zimbio.com, JustJared.buzznet.com, Celebrity-Gossip.net]

Sheer pleasure

I don't know about you but I have missed the Olsens during fashion month! They didn't use to go along with the fair but at least they showed up at some New York shows and there was always the big Chanel appearance. But we're getting none of that lately, which is odd because they had to be in Paris during fashion week to show their The Row collection. In any case, we will always have the classic paparazzi shops of them going shopping and popping into Starbucks. The latest of these has been Ashley's visit to Céline. The chicer part of the Olsens stepped out in a cropped mega fluffy fur coat which she paired up with a black sheer maxi skirt and leather leggings showing she's so fashion forward she already knew these skirts would make a hit for SS11.

Ash's take on the sheer maxi seems to be a practical way of mixing together different season's trends. SS11 offers many different options within two main categories: rock & roll and romantic. Houses like Givenchy took sheer to a new level by printing it with leopard while others like Rag & Bone and Alberta Ferreti used a soft palette or florals for a kind of urban boho look.
I also really liked the mixture of textures in Ashley's outfit and the good combination of the black, the blond fur and the gold of the jewellery. I had a look on Net-a-Porter to see which fur (fake and real) they're offering this season and cropped is definitely the way to go wether you are a fan of Fendi's luxury or Burberry's über-fluffy pieces.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Celebrity-Gossip.net, Style.com, Net-a-porter.com]

HARDCORE cold

There's less than a week of August left and it feels just right to free my desperate urge for talking winter-wear. As I advanced over a week ago, this specials which will be showing up at soVIPzone in the following two weeks will be divided in four different parts featuring my favourites from the Fall collections for women and men and the hottest accessories to culminate your looks.
Since there are more collections devoted to women than there are to men, I figured it was the thoughtful thing to start this set of four specials with womenwear.



Mr. Alexander McQueen caught my attention this year because, apart from being a genious, he managed to include the season's inspiration to his particual vision of fashion. My preferred look mixes his signature dark and ethereal with Fall 2007's fur and treated leather. He is simply unquestionable.


Balenciaga has crowned itself the most innovative and visionaire for the season; much will be talked about it so be happy because all sorts of copies are sure to appear in most of your favourite department stores. For this, the brand stands as my favourite fall collection; but we'll have more time to behold its art on its review, due to the middle of September in soVIPzone. My favourite piece combines with absolute perfection the most modern aspects of the season, like lego inspirated shoes, with ethnic touches like updated kufiyas (palestine scarves). It just is the superb urban look for those who love wearing something special but keeping it real.


This famous british house has suffered a delightful modernization since Christopher Bailey was put in charge of its creative direction. Burberry Prorsum, the most luxurious branch proposes an updating of its own classics by means of loads of black leather and metalic finishes using sequence. The outfit I chose is "living" evidence of this.


Our beloved Kaiser of fashion proves wrong, yet again, the world by re-inventing Chanel's very own tweed ensembles. This time, he managed to add with his superb sense of taste black leather and napa and the modern art prints circulating around most of the season's collections. But as he could not be less, Lagerfeld created his own trend: silk scarves tied at the waist.


I'm glad Chloé finally decided to go back to its particular and amazing style instead of keep it going puffy. But they really made it up by creating these amazing dresses, skirts and sweaters with different-shaped plastic pieces attached to them. Nobody will be able to pull off a real trendy look without wearing Chloé's black patent leather ankle-boots. Truly Chloé-licious!


Mr. and Mr. Caten are true masters of surprise; each season they come out with a collection that will not leave anyone impassive, and this season is no exception. I would probably describe their last collection as dominatrix, loads of dark leather and very short, sexy clothes plus straps and fur; can there be any other way to refer to it? It is however both genious and really their style. Hats off.


There are houses of fashion which usually go under the radar concerning clothing. Fendi is probably one of them; and it is most surely this feature wich encouraged the italian brand to push it forward this year. I would say it is Fendi who best combined the leather trends of winter and the jewel colors in fashion; and this means a great deal. Take a look at my most-liked look.


The first time I laid eyes on one of Frida Giannini's creations I almost ran away from fear. It was her first attempt of a collection in the world-famous Gucci; and it went down as a disappointment. But somehow, when summer came again, she amazed the world with her design skills and taste and it seems like it is that effects that she desires to keep rising among fashionistas. Her Fall 2007 collection makes elegance, modernity and classiness walk in unison.


The riding house, that could be a magnificent name for Hermés. I recently visited one of their stores and I have to say I was left more atonished before this alpine-inspirated piece than I was when it came to my sight on the screen. I always love how its style resumes its path through fashion updating itself to drive crazy mode lovers. Bravo.


If you're regular to my blog, you know I like to call him God, for he is a master of the arts. Giorgio Armani won't ignore his insticts once, he will embrace his beloved asian inpiration forever; and I will worship him for that. Fur "à-la-Asian", this is what my favourtie piece is. Behold.


Vogue Spain reads on its September cover: "The other man of your life". Who could else that be but Marc Jacobs? It looks like he got this year's inpiration from Salem, a town packed with witches who were publicly judged and burned alive. Long figures, black and red and wonderful hats.


Since the male couple entered Proenza Schouler the brand has "suffered" a superb improvement. It's classic, clean nowadays clothing. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are those to blame for the change. I can only say I would believe in love at first sight if she was wearing PS.


2006 has been the year for his 45th anniversary and the time for Il signore Valentino to deny the rumours of his withdraw from the Italian house. I do not believe he is ready for retirement yet either; there's still much left inside him to make it over the half century as owner and creator of the Red Heaven.


WOW!, that was my first reaction to Miuccia Prada's F/W 2007 display. Treated wool in colors I could not even name and looong sequence feathers all over the place. But then I had a few of these designs on my hands, I had the chance to feel them, to let them talk to me. And I was convinced; Miuccia can't be wrong.


Craziness is a very particual characteristic very regularly found in masters and this is just about the right term to give to John Galliano, creative director of Dior. As the house made it into its 60th anniversary, Galliano managed to squeeze a bunch of leather and fur kimono-ed pieces culminated with hut-like hats. Simply, Dior.


I became very close to Givenchy —spiritually speaking— not long ago when Liv Tyler got involved in it as the image of the fragrance "Very Irresistible". What captivates me the most about the house is that easy way to amaze that it has; is it like "there you go, another masterpiece", and so it is. They mark trends and drive everyone nuts with them. And I'm no different.


It is quite funny —if I may— when you think that some brands have survived endless eras of change without scratching themselves concerning style. Yves Saint Laurent is one of them. I particurlarly loved all the fur and leather pieces, and most specially this one, a long vest imitating the green skin of a snake. Just about enough to prove their power in craftsmanship.


I know, I know!, it looks like an Elmo costume. But, truth to be told, this piece of blue fur is quite a beauty. It's not but a simple fur vest over dark leggings and top and yet it fully dresses up the model and overshines any other clothing around. Isn't it wonderful when you come to think of it like that? Versace. Duh.


Giambattista Valli is not that known among the common public (no offence) but he really should be. This season's collection could easily be confused with Marc Jacobs'; the Salem inspiration is undeniable, as it is the inviduality this collection also has. The lines are much like Jacobs' but the whole sense of the compilation is more Puritan. Anyone wearing this would have been spared their life then.


I'm afraid something like the "leopard fever" will soon be discovered; it would be the only possible explanation for Dolce & Gabbana's late constant disasters. I only included the former couple's collection in this special because I've always loved their creations deeply and because they are, nevertheless, great designers and have introduced, even this season, awesome features. May God be with them for Spring 2008.



This is it for now. Keep checking back for the second part of the special: MALE HIGHLIGHTS, by the end of the week.
Also, you should know soVIPzone is starting to spread over the net. You can now log onto soVIPzone.com, a better and easier way to access your source of style and coolness. soVIPzone.org, .net and .es are also working to redirect you to the VIP corner of the net.
I'm off.

[Credit photos: style.com]

UPDATE!
Check out the female soVIP musts for Fall.