Best Dressed of the Weekend: Red, peplums & The Olsens
JustJared

It's always a good weekend when the Olsens are out in the open. This time they attended the Fresh Air Funds Salute to American Heroes in New York. They went for a kind of Ying and Yang look – Ashley in a ivory The Row dress with the ruffled detail at the front and Mary-Kate, also in The Row, in a black combo of silk shirt and skirt. I loved MK's (Fendi?)shoes and her choice of croc The Row bag.

Charlize Theron is currently on her press tour promoting Snow White and the Huntsman and Prometheus, which has turned out to be quite a treat. She's been choosing all the right dresses for the red carpet – especially her Dior in London – but also for travelling – here another of my favourites. Her latest hit, by Lanvin, was only last night at the MTV Movie Awards in LA. I loved the simple strapless red with the season's super trendy peplum.

I'm not sure anyone in the world hasn't heard about the Queen's Jubilee. I must admit I missed much of it but was happy to see that Kate Middleton – should I call her Duchess of Cambridge? – went not only for red, which was compulsory, but for McQueen again. The combination of the pleats in the skirt and the flat top was super chic and I liked the fact that, if very subtle, there was also some peplum action going on here.

Best Dressed of the Weekend: Sonam Kapoor & Diane Kruger kill it!
Getty

The Cannes Film Festival closed last night with the premiere of 'Therese Desqueyroux'. I was hoping that Diane Kruger, who has totally killed it day after day this year, would have a finale dress worth waiting for. And I wasn't disappointed – she wore a stunning Christian Dior Couture dress. I loved the fact that she wore it with the panniers, which give it a bit of 18th century drama.

My other favourite, who I didn't expect to see in Cannes this year, was Sonam Kapoor. I have been a big fan of her style for a while now. There is a certain Je-ne-sais-quoi in the way she wears clothes that I simply adore. Yesterday she rocked two dresses. First, a Pre-Fall'12 Alexander McQueen that she wore with a super flattering hairdo and beautiful make up. And later she slipped into a hot red velvet Dolce & Gabbana with matching shoes and a beaded hairband intertwined in her braid. Looking at her is like being transported to a glamorous time of elegant flamboyance.

I didn't want to do a poll this week because it would break my heart to choose between my two ladies but feel free to choose your favourite in the comments section below!

Getty

Style.com

I've been meaning to do a post around leopard print jeans for ever since one of my friends consulted me on whether she should buy a pair of grey ones. She was afraid they might be a tad too tacky (the Cavalli overdose through the years has left us with this impression) but I reassured her that a true chic French woman like her could never even get close to being tacky.

And now I even have the visual proof to back me up. Hilary Rhoda is not a French woman but you catch my drift, non? She attended the 'Young Adult' party in New York a few days ago and was very elegantly attired in a faded leopard print Current/Elliott jeans, a semi tucked-in black silk shirt under a tailored black blazer, which she accessorised with a pair of Isabel Marant pumps and a camel scarf.
I had a look around my favourite websites for similar items and found this Sandro washed silk blouse (I love the effect of the fabric), a timeless black blazer from Alexander McQueen, and a Josie Natori cashmere snood.

Style.com,  myLifetime.com

I don't know if any of you still watch Project Runway. I was a big fan of the show during the first two seasons. After stopping watching the seasons when they moved the show to LA, I started to watch again for season 8. Now we're onto season 9 and it seems to be quite good so far.

For the second challenge –My Pet Project– they had to make clothes out of pet shop materials. Contestants usually suck at this challenge season after season because it's hard to work with awkward materials but two of the designs really impressed me.

The first one was a sleeveless mini dress with a mid-rise neck. It was covered with bird food had a sunflower-seed degradé detail on the neck. It was so chic and it reminded me a lot of the bejewelled Alexander McQueen number from SS09.

The second one had a similar silhouette. This one had short sleeves and a more voluminous skirt. The top was made of polyester filter fibre –a kind of shearling– and the skirt was made of two tones of hamster bedding. The texture of this one also reminded me of a McQueen dress from the same SS09 collection. Even the styling was a little McQueen.

I am hoping for great fashion moments like these in the coming episodes of season 9.

Are you watching?

Since I was delayed enough to make the post about the Royal Wedding I thought a 'Best dressed of the week' was more appropriate. I am yet to watch the whole thing (I missed it to catch a plane) but I can easily say this was the most stylish wedding since Grace Kelly married Rainier of Monaco in '56. Kate Middleton still takes my breath away with her two McQueen dresses. Her beautiful face and incredible figure made her look utterly regal in the white lace by Sarah Burton. Also very elegant were her sister Pippa, also in McQueen, and her mum Carole in Catherine Walker. We can expect lots of stylish royal gatherings from them.

Next on the list are, of course, the Beckhams. David looked as sharp as an Englishman should in Ralph Lauren and Victoria, in her own dress and a Philip Treacy hat, proved she'd have blue blood if she had matching Louboutins. Her look was not only occasion appropriate but also very interesting fashion-wise.

My other two favourites were the Queen, in regal yellow and looking quite jolly, and Sam Cameron (surprise!) in a very simple and very nicely accessorised Burberry dress.

[JustJared, Zimbio]

Can I have a McRoyal wedding with extra feathers?

In December, when I dealt with the issue of the royal wedding dress, I said I wouldn't have bee outraged if Kate Middleton didn't choose a British designer, which was a long shot. I would have loved to see the rules broken, in a way. But this didn't prevent me from being absolutely stoked when I first heard that Kate had chosen McQueen —or Sarah Rutson, to be more precise— to make her wedding dress. It would have been ideal if Lee himself could have done this, as his references to monarchic attire were present in most of his most successful collections. Whether the reason for choosing the house are strictly style-related, which I doubt, or a way of tribute both to Lee and British fashion it seems to me like the best choice. And I think so because McQueen represents the perfect marriage of tradition and modernity, which is something I rather hope the king and queen-to-be are intending to achieve. Design-wise, my guess is that we'll see something in the line of Lee's last collection —a long-sleeved and relatively closed neckline on top and a flowy front and somewhat short trail at the bottom. My preference would be for feather detailing, which Lee did so well, but I am guessing we'll have to be contented with some restrained beading.

I'm off.

PS. How relevant is this picture now?

[Pictures: Style.com]

Would you hold it against me, Lee?

Earlier this afternoon Giulia and I had a little discussion over bbm about Britney, her comeback and her new video. Like me, she was happy of how the V magazine cover turned out because it reminded her so much of the old Britney, who we both loved. Talking about the 'Hold it against me' video we differed a little. Giulia really liked it and, while I can never dislike something Britney makes, I wasn't totally keen on it. I was especially horrified by the big diamond white dress she wears together with diamond necklace and diamond cuffs. So I watched the video again, with an open mind. Now I can at least say that I don't feel as bad about it because not only is wasn't nearly as atrocious as I remembered but there was kind of a homage to McQueen's famous S/S99 collection. Whether intentional or not this nod to the genius gives Britney enough brownie points (in my book, anyway) to even up the score and increase her chances of the comeback she truly deserves. What did you think of the video?

I'm off.

[Pictures: Screencaps from VEVO]

It's gonna be alright

When I found out about Alexander McQueen's passing I told myself I would never like anyone's creations for his namesake brand. Then I worried about the house's future if no one could find somebody who could remotely fill Lee's shoes. Shortly after this rush of sentiments, the LVMH group announced Sarah Burton's appointment as new creative director. Knowing she had spent 15 years very close to McQueen gave me hope. But it wasn't until yesterday that we finally learnt we can rest assured everything's going to be alright. The space for the SS11 collection set a much more relaxed mood that we are used to for these shows, which seemed to be Burton's add to the brand. She played with the idea of a queen of nature. Leather leaves, pheasant feathers, butterflies and golden poison ivy wrapped around the body and shared space with McQueen's gilded staples typical of monarchic outfitting. Not only Burton didn't disappoint but she aroused an excitement we thought gone.

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri finally found a path for Valentino. After seasons of creative wandering around they started walking in the right direction on their last Couture collection and they successfully translated that vision for the prêt-á-porter line. The Italian duo wanted "dangerous refinement", made evident in the combination of materials; a tough straw lace skirt paired up with delicate Chantilly lace. Ruffles and bows, which had characterised previous collections, blended into the pieces instead of becoming protagonists. Chiffon played the biggest role on the evening wear, floating like a sophisticated jellyfish over simple, harder shapes in line with the juxtaposition of the delicate and the dangerous. The overall feel of the SS11 line was much younger (very celebrity-appealing) and focused but miles away from Garavani's legacy, which has now been reduced to a mere tag.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Alejandro: the old and the new

The hype around every one of Lady Gaga's videos grows with the release of each one. I Have to admit I always get a little excited to see them for the first time but this time it was different. I can't remember how long ago it was when I read that Steven Klein, my favourite photographer, was directing her 'Alejandro' video but ever since then I literally couldn't wait. I won't admit to the number of times I have watched it since yesterday but, believe me, you'd think me a freak.
Anyway, the Gaga and Klein combination very much delivered. The video is, visually, one of the best things I have seen in music in a very long time. The Klein aesthetic covers every single shot and light choice and mixes influences that Gaga and himself share as well the ones ever-present in all his work.

Gaga's first couple of outfits consist of a black cape (top picture) and a lace outfit both custom made Alexander McQueen pieces as well as a Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen custom made hat. It is no secret Lady Gaga adores McQueen and we have often seen many of his pieces in her videos. This is brought to the maximum with Steven Klein, who was close to the designer (and Daphne Ginness) and who shot editorials (like the one above for W back in 2002) and adverts for him.

If you follow Klein, you'll know he is known for having a fixation with, among others, horses, Madonna, religion and sex. In 'Alejandro' the references to Madonna are endless. Gaga's "blasphemous" scenes from the video have so much in common with Madonna's 'Like a Prayer' video from 1989. crosses, rosaries and religious attire irreverently mixed with sex, custom made Atsuko Kudo (nun outfit), Hussein Chalayan (leather jacket) and custom made Jaiden RVA James (hooded dress).

'Alejandro' switches between Madonna eras mixing all the different aspects of the singers that characterise Gaga. Suddenly we're in the 'Vogue' video from 1990 where Gaga more literally replicates Madonna's black suit and famous (Gaultier) pointy bra. Once again, more genius styling from Mr. Formichetti -Dolce & Gabbana waistcoat, Fracesco Scognamiglio trousers, gun bra custom made by David Samuel Menkes and Calvin Klein underwear.

Again, the Steven Klein point of view is so present that many still shots of the video could very well be editorial pictures. The 'bed theme' has been such a recurrent one in his work, from Madonna's W editorial in 2002, to the Beckham's for the same magazine in 2007 or some of his more recent work. If you look at the 'bed dancing' scenes in 'Alejandro' you might even see some resemblance with Britney's 'Me Against the Music' video, a suggestion from Maddona?

Click here to enjoy the video in HQ. Here to go to Steven Klein's website. And here to check out Nicola Formichetti's blog.
I'm off.

PS. I really liked the Evandro Soldati cameo. Have a look at some of his work here.


[Credits: NicolaFormichetti.blogspot.com, Style.com, StevenKleinStudio.com. Screencaps from youtube videos.]

the week in news: 24.05.10

This past week has been full of fashion news. From the appointment of new designers, to star-studded store openings and sale profit announcements (Burberry's profits rose $131.5 million). I already talked about Christophe Lemaire's new role as Hermès creative director yesterday but he wasn't the biggest news, by far. Earlier this week, the Gucci group announced that Sarah Burton has been chosen as the new creative director for Alexander McQueen. After months of speculations of weather a big name would take over the brand it has been decided that Burton, whose experience as head of women's wear design since 2000 and who put together the presentation of the FW10 collection after Lee's death, is the right choice. I have a good feeling about this.

Also this week, Giles Deacon was announced as Ungaro's new creative mind. After Estrella Arch's monumental failure in collaborating with Lindsay Lohan for two seasons, the Spanish designer was let go to leave room for Giles. Surprisingly, Lohan is supposed to still 'collaborate' in Ungaro's line. I just hope Deacon can play mind tricks with her and trow ALL her ideas in the bin.
A little less news-worthy was the opening of the Louis Vuitton Maison in London's New Bond Street. I never think of LV as an essential part of the industry but I suppose it is in terms of sales. For whichever reason, the opening of their biggest British home congregated an endless list of celebrities all wearing Marc Jacobs' creations for FW10. I really loved Marc's idea for this last collection but I still feel iffy about the execution. Just by looking at most guests (who don't have the average person's body shape) it was evident that the 30's inspired dresses are not flattering in the least. Luckily, Kristen, Alexa, Gwyneth and Gemma were there to prove being the exception to the rule.
I'm off.

[Pictures: nytimes.com, Telegraph.co.uk, Style.com, JustJared.buzznet.com, Zimbio.com]

déjà vu

I was quite excited to see what Sarah Jessica Parker would wear to the London premiere of Sex and The City 2. I just came back home and did a quick check on the latest fashion news and found the pictures. I honestly don't know whether to like it or not, as I have a bit of a dilemma going on. Two years ago, for the premiere of the first SATC movie, SJP wore a pistachio McQueen and an 'eye-catching' hat that looked more like a grasshopper having a speed trip sitting on an acorn that like a hat. But I still thought she deserved some credit for being brave and trying something new. Now, she must have thought the outfit she wore then was so perfect she might try to give it a second go. For the London premiere of the movie sequel she chose a more event-appropriate McQueen dress, more sophisticated hair and make-up and a rather chic black hat by Philip Treacy. A much slicker look that, had it not resembled her previous one so much, would have been a winner.

On a nicer note, it was very sweet and kind of her to wear McQueen as she has been chosen as the person who will present Lee's tribute award from the CFDA on June 7th. A nice gesture that gives her many golden points in my book.
Which look did you like better?
I'm off.

[Pictures: JustJared.buzznet.com]

McLoveStory

Cannes 2010 just rolled out the red carpet today and what could easily be the best fashion moment has already happened. The greatest thing about Cannes is that we get extra looks, as the actors first pose by the dock on their arrival and then change for the photo call by the red steps of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès.

Cate Blanchett made my jaw drop this morning —literally. She arrived at the festival in a pale pink Giorgio Armani Privé (see here) that together with her fair skin and blond hair instantly made me think of Grace Kelly. It was the kind of beauty you don't see every day. Later, for her movie premiere (and after a lot of twitter rumours) she slipped into a Pre-Fall10 Alexander McQueen dress. The gigantic eagle plastered across the front of the dress might make you cringe at first but if you look at the whole you will realise how it somehow works on her. She looks like royalty. After all, that is what the eagle has always symbolised .

Cate Blanchet is extremely faithful to her dress makers —you'll rarely see her out of an Armani, a Balenciaga or a McQueen. But it's with the latter that Cate has a love affair with. Some of her best (and my favourite) fashion moments have been courtesy of Lee. There has been the odd mistake but even then she looked graceful and beautiful.

I'm off.

[Pictures: ProFashionElle.com, JustJared.buzznet.com]

give me a Q

The latest news concerning McQueen's death surfaced yesterday closing his suicide case writing the last dark line of the designer's tragic story on the same week that the F/W10 look book of his diffusion line, McQ, is published.

As it turns out, Lee was under the effect of a mixture of cocaine, sleeping pills and tranquillisers that lead experts to believe he "killed himself while the balance of his mind was disturbed". This raises many 'what if' questions that will never have an answer and makes the story of his death all the more tragic.

Ironically, Alexander McQueen's last (?) designed line takes inspiration from iconic rockstar Kurt Cobain. And I mention irony because it was in a similar manner that Cobain's life came to an end. For his F/W10 line, the British designer mixed leopard-print coats, patched-up jeans, checked shirts and white-framed sunglasses —epitomes of the grunge aesthetic and staples of Cobain's look. A collection of a strong point view, notes of Punk and scattered remarkable pieces as an homage to an icon, from another icon.

Click here to see the rest of the McQ F/W10 look book and here to read the complete article about the latest news on Lee.

I'm off.

[Sources: theFashionisto.com, Guardian.co.uk]

Jude's awesome luggage and CFDA nominations

Things seem to move at a glacial pace after fashion week. The never-ending excitement of weeks of displaying collections takes a while to wear off and, in the meantime, we try and find as much new information as possible. Regurgitating FW10 trends doesn't seem enough. That's why rather trivial things like Jude Law's amazing set of leather luggage (I'd personally love to see what's in them) comes hand in hand with the nominations for this year's CFDA awards.

It came as no surprise that the CFDA's Board of Directors Special Tribute was awarded to McQueen, I hope the first of the many tributes to come. Tom Ford's nomination for best menswear designer did put a smile on my face, I hope he gets back on his game and wins mens and womenswear in the near future. Otherwise, I only feel I have to express my irritation for Marc Jacob's eternal and rather undeserved nominations (best accessory designer, hello?) and my content for Christopher Bailey's best international designer award for his work at Burberry and Altuzarra's nomination for the Swarovski Award for Womenswear. Here are the rest of nominees, make your bets.

Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Donna Karan
Marc Jacobs
Alexander Wang
Menswear Designer of the Year:
Michael Bastian
Tom Ford
David Neville & Marcus Wainwright for Rag & Bone
Accessory Designer of the Year:
Alexis Bittar
Lazaro Hernandez & Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler
Marc Jacobs
Swarovski Award for Womenswear:
Joseph Altuzarra
Jason Wu
Prabal Gurung
Swarovski Award for Menswear:
Richard Chai
Simon Spurr
Patrik Ervell
Swarovski Award for Accessories:
Alexander Wang
Dana Lorenz
Eddie Borgo
The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award:
Michael Kors
The International Award:
Christopher Bailey for Burberry
Fashion Icon Award:
Iman
The Eugenia Sheppard Award:
Kim Hastreiter (Paper Magazine)
Eleanor Lambert Award:
Tonne Goodman (Vogue)
Board of Directors Special Tribute:
Alexander McQueen

[Credits: JustJared, NbcNewYork]

I'm off.

the last Queen

"You have some big shoes to fill, I hope you know that." That is what McQueen's substitute (if they ever find anyone remotely close to him in genius) will be told on his first day at work. It is devastating to think that those 16 looks that walked the catwalk today in Paris are the last from one of the most creative minds we will ever know. McQueen's FW10 collection was brimming with royal, ecclesiastical and ornithological references. You can see his hand in every printed pleat and every gilded fabric. His painstaking pieces are the most beautiful conclusion of a legacy that has forever imprinted fashion history.

[Pictures:Vogue.co.uk]

I'm off.

farewell McQueen

This new decade couldn't have had a worse start. In the noughties we lost Yves and now it's Lee. Us at soVIPzone are devastated. We could try and use words such as genius or visionaire to describe him but wouldn't even begin to cover it. I will never feel that excitement when I'm about to see the pictures from his show on style.com and it breaks my heart to think that I will never see him wave from the start of the catwalk in person. He was not only an artist but a icon of his time, a relevant creator. The video below belongs to one of his Givenchy shows, a particular favourite of mine that gives me goose-pumps every time. We will definitely miss you, Lee.

I'm off.

what happened in Milan

Milan Fashion Week was only the first half of all the good things to come for menswear. However, it has been a very exciting few days thanks to the live streaming of the fashion shows and all the twittering going on. I am overall very pleased with what I have seen. Designers have restrained themselves and have hence found new ways to let go of their prodigality via textures and colours. My biggest joy? —Gucci and the return of the turtle neck and blazer combo. Which collection was your favourite?

[Pictures credit: GQ.com]

I'm off.

midsummer night's dream

Jak & Jill triggered it, we followed, and then this. W magazine's January issue presents us with a girl's dream wardrobe in the soft colours and fabrics of the season. THANK YOU.

'Run of Show'

W magazine, January 2010

Photos by Craig McDean

xo Giuls