Kate Moss is the face of the new Salvatore Ferragamo campaign
Courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo

Do you remember that season a couple of years ago when Kate Moss was the face of every single campaign? It was a long time ago before she was clean and married and even more chic.

But she's become a lot pickier recently. Now she only chooses a handful of adverts where she appears every season. The first of them for FW12 is the new Salvatore Ferragamo campaign shot by Mikael Jansson. The beautiful Karmen Pedaru and Sean O'Pry keep her good company in the rich interiors of Barlin's Russian Embassy.

I love seeing Kate featured in more sophisticated, slightly more opulent campaigns instead of her usual minimalistic choices more in line with her personal style.

What do you think of the campaign.

You can see more images by clicking on read more.

what happened in Milan

Milan Fashion Week was only the first half of all the good things to come for menswear. However, it has been a very exciting few days thanks to the live streaming of the fashion shows and all the twittering going on. I am overall very pleased with what I have seen. Designers have restrained themselves and have hence found new ways to let go of their prodigality via textures and colours. My biggest joy? —Gucci and the return of the turtle neck and blazer combo. Which collection was your favourite?

[Pictures credit: GQ.com]

I'm off.

classic is never démodé

It is finally here. Even though we are already three days into Paris Fashion Week I thought a recap on Milan was in order. I have left out many designers —those who did not innovate enough or whose creations simply did not appeal to me. In any case, S/S 2010 seems to only have recession in the back of its head. Most designers have gone back to basics —blazers and all types of tailored pieces filled the runway and they did so with pleasantly surprising twists to them. Have a look.

This was, by far, the biggest surprise. I would have not expected Ferragamo to put together such an excellent collection of timeless pieces that feel so cool and fresh.

I want to wear Marni for the rest of the summer. The cuts are so clean, the colours so softly elegant and the fit so comfy-looking that, could I afford it, you would not catch me wearing any other brand.

This was very much a flash collection, it did not even reach the traditional circa-30 looks. But sometimes less is most definitely more. And a restricted palette can make everything all the more interesting. Zegna left their textures speak.

Trussardi perspired coolness from the hip twist on formal wear to the native American inspiration dominating the second half of the show. It is urbanwear but distinctive, and I love it.

The only thing I kept thinking while looking at the Missoni collection was: "This is exactly what Chuck Bass would wear if he went to Oxford". I believe that statement to be self-explanatory.

Another surprise. Not a big big one but surprise all the same. I never like Moschino, I have always thought it to be very cheap-looking and tacky. This collection changed my mind. Even when the detailing (be it embroidery or print) might seem a little too much, it is a very new-looking collection that will possibly redirection the brand somewhere more tasteful.

I have been staring at all these looks for a couple of days trying to decide whether I like it or not. It is innovative, fair enough. But is McQueen getting too relaxed on his golden throne and thinking he can get away with anything?

Too many layers for any Italian, Spaniard, French or Greek. And I love grey to pieces but this collection does not seem very realistic when it comes to the season it is for. Now, Miuccia has played most skillfully with different materials. I am specially fond of those cottony nets.

Funny how such an Italian brand can feel so oddly British. This takes me back centuries to dodgy parts of London when burglars stole expensive garments and wore them to pretend they were posh. Only Zegna makes burglars look pretty damn stylish.

And here goes my first disappointment of the season. This Gucci collection was too diffuse, too white, too old Gucci. I did love the fit of the trousers, all of the shoes and those prints Frida Giannini uses so well.

Not groundbreaking but at least Bottega Veneta stepped out of their comfort zone and showed plenty of pieces men of any age and nationality would love to throw on their back.

D&G was not innovative or fresh but at least they changed their black and blues for beiges and browns. It is better than nothing.

[Pictures credit: Men.Style.com]

I'm off.

jeopardized VIRILITY?

For those of you possibly expecting posts about Haute Couture, my apologies. I am not as big a connoisseur I should be to write about such an exquisite thing and there are plenty of blogs out there providing very good quality reviews about everything going on in Paris. Instead, I will still post about the recently shown French men collections for at least what is left of this week.
In opposition to this summer’s male fashion, summer 2009 brings into the picture numerous new cuts and ideas that, outside the fashion world, might translate into outrage or mockery. I myself confess I was struck with a cocktail of interest and denial as I flipped through these collections. Eventually I realized this was a good thing —innovation in menswear is rarely found and even if some things are not to be seen in high street windows they are a step forward fashion-wise.

Once again, women trends for the current season can be found in summer 2009, just like you could see in “to be or not to be… a MAN”. Following that stream we find jumpsuits. Salvatore Ferragamo and Veronique Branquinho presented two quite interesting short jumpsuits. They look surprisingly good on the models, but I’m afraid they wouldn’t as much in a more realistic body. Another more shocking female garment transported onto menswear is the mini-dress, redone by Raf Simons.

Also closely related to women clothing are leggings, which were on for quite a while and now seem to be object of contempt. Well, they are making a comeback next summer, only the legs they will cover will be rather hairier. Veronique Branquinho, Lanvin and Comme des Garçons have them full length and slightly looser than those for girls. The fresh aspect is they are worn under short pants —used to make a colour or fabric contrast and to add dynamism.

However, there are those who chose to keep leggings closer to the original concept. That is, on their own or under slightly longer tops. This is the case of Comme des Garçons and Maison Martin Margiela’s shiny sequined ones.

A more likely proposal within the leggings universe is knee-length ones also worn under short pants. Givenchy’s seem like a chic way of innovation without crossing the boundaries between fashion-forward and madness. Raf Simons leaves short leggings on their own, which doesn’t strike as surprising provided it was them who made dresses.

Last on the list is the skirt. Embarrassingly enough, the first thing that popped into my mind when I laid eyes on Comme des Garçons’ skirts for him was Kevin from the Backstreet Boys. He has been the only man I have even seen wearing a skirt. This time, they can be found in all lengths and especially in black and white.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]


Now I wonder, is it really necessary to bring in previously used womenswear trends or transform their garments into unisex? Can’t innovation in menswear take place on its own?

And also, does this redirection of fashion jeopardize our virility?
What do you reckon?

I’m off.

to be or not to be... a MAN

Everyone knows fashion is more of a women's world, there is no wonder about that. But how unfair is it that only because of that overlook-able fact we men must wait around for a year in order to get those trends in our sizes. Whether you are looking for gladiators, a boho look, new hippy or neon you might as well wear last year's clothes with wit and find a good amount of patience. Then, of course you can be lucky enough to be a pocket-size guy with extraordinarily small feet so as to find your beloved item among a pile of unwanted womenswear. Something which seems highly unlikely all the same. However, we shall not be fully disappointed as Milan fashion week is well on the move, showcasing what seem to be the innovative ways of transporting S/S'08 womenswear onto the male side of fashion. Upset as that fact could make us, it can also be taken as a better way of approaching the now super fresh trends. Designers have time to let their ideas mature and experiment with them for some months. And it looks like that is precisely what has occurred. S/S'09 offers all we could wish for specifically adapted for us —oh what an honour.

Balmain's new hippy comes via Gucci for next summer.

It's also Gucci that brings in Prada's graphic fantasy and colours.

Hermès oriental touch is courtesy of Asia-lover Giorgio Armani.

Neon as seen in Blumarine can also be found at Salvatore Ferragamo and Calvin Klein Collection for next summer.

Cropped tops for men are introduced by Prada, just like Jil Sander did.

In this case, Etro uses their own trends and patterns for their womenswear'08 and menswear'09 for the summer season.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

UPDATE: I have just changed the header, it needed some refreshing. What do you think?

DECK yourself with glamy goodies

December has already joined the party and that means that the Holidays —my favourite ones, I must say— are getting closer. Endless events and get-togethers will take place then, and why not using them to show off your beloved accessories of the season? In addition to a time of joy and lack of work activities, this must be the moment to get on those trendy pumps you've barely used so far or to dress your neck with the ridiculously expensive necklace you couldn't help buying.

I have put together a list of my preferred items for this time of the year. Christmas is a different moment and, therefore, it deserves special accessorizing.

For me, there is no elegant event without some Armani around. Girogio Armani has the richest shoes, clutches and jewlery.

Your feet deserve a treat, and what other could that be besides Christian Louboutin?

Gucci masters black and has a bit of an Italian-casual breeze of air that always matches your dresses.

If you prefer to be the most fashion-daring of the party, go McQueen. It screams rich, daring and confident.

Try out some Salvatore Ferragamo with those jeans you reserve for comfortable special occasions.

There is a reason you always have some Ralph Lauren in your wardrobe, now is the time to show them around.

Balenciaga shouldn't miss a party, it's the protagonist of the season!

There's never a party without a glimpse of Chanel, they're broad accessory selection makes it just right for tonight's gathering.

You have Marc Jacobs in your heart, why not on yourself too?

Go beyond and wear Burberry Prorsum's item of the season.

For a bit quieter selection of items take a look at these:

Stella McCartney

Oscar de la Renta

Bottega Veneta

Giuseppe Zanotti

Tod's

Roberto Cavalli

[Credit Photos: style.com, eluxury.com and designer's webpages]

I'm off.