TFS

We already saw a preview of the cover over the weekend and I knew I would be happy with this one. Rooney Mara, shot by Mert & Marcus and styled by Tonne Goodman, covers the November issue of American Vogue. This is exactly what I would like the magazine to always look like –elegant and slick, with an edge.

I think the choice of Rooney for the cover is both expected and unexpected –the first because she already covered W and she stars in a blockbuster, and the latter because she doesn't have the typical look American Vogue usually has on the cover.

Tonne has done an excellent job on the styling. The cover dress, a black Ralph Lauren dress from the F/W11 collection, has that subtle sophistication you need for a cover garment and I love the dragon detail on the back, no matter what other people might think, it's witty.

The editorial inside (click below on read more to see) is even better. It's very much inspired by the work of John Everett Millais  and the Pre-Raphaelite movement. As tired as I've been of Mert & Marcus lately, I must say they've nailed this shoot. The way they always use colour is just right in this case. I am officially obsessed with this issue!

CWtv.com, Style.com

I was quite excited for Gossip Girl's return this week. I always get this feeling in September after being deprived of my main source of entertainment during the summer. And the first episode did not disappoint.

Before I go on I would just like to warn that

there are spoilers ahead

so don't blame me if I spoil it.

My favourite two things about this episode were Blair and the Serena-Chuck-Nate triangle in LA.

Blair seems to have become a lot sexier and cooler over the summer. She delights us with 4 or 5 changes of clothes during the episode and each is better than the next! I was thrilled to see the only Oscar de La Renta look I liked from the SS11 collection but my favourite for the jewel print mini dress by Moschino Cheap & Chic. That is exactly the vibe the stylist should be aiming at for Blair!

While Blair stayed in NYC Serena, Nate and Chuck went away to LA. I really loved the dynamics they've got going on in this episode –very chilled and grown up. And I am also very much into their styles, which have also relaxed. I also really enjoyed all their New Yorker references to LA, they make it sound like they're in a different country!

CWtv.com, Roger Vivier

Mr Porter

The best dressed guy in the episode is obviously Chuck. You know how much I love his style. And I like it now even more. The tan biker jacket (Ralph Lauren, if I'm not mistaken) and neckerchief give him a kind of vintage air and feels current and rock'n'roll. It reminded me a lot of Leo Dicaprio's style from The Aviator, though his jacket was Belstaff.

What I do not understand is how he is not absolutely roasting in that jacket if it's the summer. But hey, he's not the only guy who sacrifices comfort to look good. A man must have his priorities in order!

I am intrigued to see if he keeps up this cool flair once he's back to New York or if he'll go back to his purple shirts and red ties. In the meantime, he really needs to get that bruise looked at. How can you get one of those and not realise until a day after?

From right: Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Aquilano Rimondi and Lanvin F/W 2011
Style.com

I first realised this was a mini-trend a couple of weeks ago while watching Project Runway. Nina Garcia was wearing this stunning Lanvin black mini dress from the FW11 collection and it struck me how incredible the big brooch at the front was. I also noticed that Nina wasn't wearing any other accessories (apart from shoes, haha).

I remembered a lot of embellished tops at the FW11 Ralph Lauren collection –one of my favourites in years. And so I looked at a few of the collections to find how other designers had approached this 'bejewelled dress' trend.
My first instinct was to revisit Ralph and Lanvin, where I found a handful of other options, all of which included some sort of intricate detail at the top front of the dress. Probably the chicest option. Then I headed to Chanel because, well, Karl tends to do this a lot. For FW11 he included the jewellery pieces in the geometric forms of the top of his dresses, which were somewhat Byzantine.
I found a different take from Aquilano Rimondi, who has instead used his jewel detailing around hemlines and the seams. A very Italian point of view, which makes me think instantly of those infamous Valentino heels.

TFS

I don't quite understand how the timing of Vogue Japan works. I remember having a copy of the September issue in my hands at the beginning of August and now that all the September issues are coming out they release their October cover? Confusing.

In any case, Florence Welch in Ralph Lauren on the cover is genius. As it is the fact that Karl Lagerfeld shot it. He should do a lot more editorial work because he's such a good photographer. In fact, I am more keen on his photography than I am on his Chanel collections sometimes.
Their August cover was excellent but their September one was a bit of a disaster –I hated the styling and the pose– so it's great to see them back in shape.
Just as they did with the Vogue Paris cover, people have been complaining about having a celebrity as the face of the issue. The way I see it, if you do mostly models and you pick your celebs because you really want them on the cover, what's the problem? Despite even the crowded text, this is a brilliant cover!

JustJared. Brooches: Silver Groves art deco brooch, Jean Despres 1937 brooch, Marni brooch from Net-a-Porter, NW3 by Hobbs Cricket brooch from Asos.

In the last few years I've become a big fan of kate Winslet's style on the red carpet. She wears a lot of black and plenty of Yves Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney.

I initially thought that this black number on the right was another timeless YSL but it's in fact Ralph Lauren, who I often forget how well does evening wear. I love the asymmetric top but my favourite thing about it is the art deco brooch holding the strap around the neck to the dress.
I'm not usually a brooch person but I love art deco architecture, furniture and jewellery. And in this case I think it's the accessory that makes the look and the green really suits Kate. So I had a look around online for some vintage and new art deco-inspired brooches. My favourite of all four are the Asos' cricket one because it's fun and super chic and the 1937 Jean Despres one, the master of art deco jewellery.

Are you keen?

Ralph travels to the Orient

Ralph Lauren is one of those fashion designers, together with Michael Kors and, possibly, Donna Karan, who always follows a straight line in terms of style. Many could argue that his collections are predictable but I like to make a marked difference between that and creating classic styles. Ralph does the latter and he does it really well. Not one, apart from the other aforementioned designers, epitomise the East-coast look as well as him. We have seen more or less strong nods to the far West, horse racing and colonialism in the past but none as evident and formidable as this one. For FW11 Ralph has travelled to the Orient of the 20's. Instead of the usual tweeds and sandy colours we saw mostly black in jacquard, wool, velvet and sequins. The flapper inspiration was mixed with the oriental motifs of necklaces and earrings, which also introduces the intense reds and jade greens that brought most of the colour to the collection. Alongside this, there was a minor art deco influence made evident mostly on belts and brooches.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

Gossip Girl Fashion: "It-Girl Happened One Night"

Season 4 of Gossip Girl has been quite the roller-coaster so far. Every two or three episodes the plot just reaches serious levels of dullness to then pick up again. Well, this week's episode, "It-Girl happened one night", is one of pretty dull ones. I'm not sure if it's the fact that the drama always involves the exact same set of people and it's always generated either by relationships or by business-related affairs or if it's me that has lost interest. Either way, the fact is that it's still not hard to watch because the fashion is not quite decaying yet, au contraire.
Blair and Serena were both on fire this week. Blair opened the episode in one of those gold brocade Balmain blazers (like the leather one E. Alt wore recently) and Stella McCartney trousers. I am really looking forward more of her business woman looks. I also liked the Louis Vuitton laptop cover, it shows that she can wear inexpensive things, hahaha. Serena accompanies Blair at the beginning in a pyjama look that I particularly loved. She donned a white silk shit à la boyfriend with half-calf grey socks. Simple yet sexy.

And I can finally post about Chuck! He's been wearing really boring suit combinations lately but on this episode it seems his love story motivates him to get dressed properly in the morning. His tuxedo moment alongside Raina, looking stunning in Ralph Lauren, was a hit. As was the earlier day look of grey suit, blue striped shirt and purple paisley tie.

Lily, who I am starting to get very annoyed about, also looked lovely in this episode. She wore one of her classic cut evening dresses to Chuck's party, which she accessorised with (my favourite) a kind of white gold leave necklace. It reminded me to the ancient Roman laurel crowns, after all she's as plotting and powerful as any Caesar. Good call.

I was rather confused, although not totally in a bad way, about two of Serena's looks. She randomly wears this long-sleeve black chiffon and silk beaded dress when she receives the present from Raina, which I found odd because it seemed way to dressed up for lounge wear, even for S. And the second was the crazy uneven-layered look she wears to the Ralph Lauren shop. I loved the kind of Rick Owens style shearling coat but it looked pretty odd with the cardigan underneath. I did, however, love the VBH blue bag she wore with that outfit.

Alas, I didn't quite have a breakfast moment to enjoy this week apart from a glance at the Van der Woodsen-Bass brunch early on the episode. To compensate, I took pleasure from looking at the delicious looking roast beef and asparagus from Chuck's Valentine's Day party.

Has anyone else notices how Nate is just there and nothing happens to him, he doesn't say anything interesting or sleep with anyone hot? He just hang out with his dad, who he hugs a ridiculous amount of times per episode and then he walks out. Give him some lines? He's got good hair.

The party dresses in the episode weren't spectacular but they kind of worked. I liked Serena's Ralph Lauren a lot! She looked a lot less slutty than she usually does, which, even to a man, it's a good thing. She looked as sophisticated as Lily always does. Blair, in Marchesa, I liked too but it seemed to take her back to her old-fashioned ways. I always get slightly annoyed about Marchesa because, even though they always have incredible dresses every season, people seem to always choose the really cheesy ones.

And, once again, the episode closes with a Blair/Dan moment. I will keep repeating how much I like this duo, regardless of what happens between then, but the writers seem to only make they come together for short periods of time. Sort. It. Out.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Screen caps, CWtv.com, BergdorfGoodman.com]

Gossip Girl Fashion: "Juliet Doesn't Live Here Anymore"

I warned you last week and the one before that and I do it again now. If you haven't seen Episode 8 of Gossip Girl do not keep reading or scrolling down. There are major spoilers ahead in the shape of text and images.
After this week's episode I have realised I have a true fixation with GG breakfasts. This time I was mesmerised not only by the litres of orange juice and the kilos of fresh strawberries on the table but also by the crazy amount of humongous waffles on the breakfast table at the Humphrey-Van-der-Woodsen-Bass table. I counted a total of 6, which could feed half a hotel considering their size. I am also starting to worry about where all this clearly uneaten food goes to. The crew?

Continuing with the food thread i'd like to point out how all-present macaroons were in this episode. And here I thought they were Blair's favourite treat which she could only eat if produce at Ladurée. In any case, she goes through a box of, at least, 20 while she's in the bath. And yet Chuck still has some to play with later on. I was ever so confused. Although I was glad to see Blair's favourites are pistachio —so are mine.

Back to the actual plot. I love how Bluck have been returned to the centre of focus of the episodes. As nice as it is to just contemplate Blake Lively I have to admit her insatiable man hunger really gets on my nerves (probably because I am not one of them). Blair and Chuck also have a handful of quite kinky scenes in this episode, which really caught me by surprise. I didn't expect such explicit (for this kind of TV show) scenes and references but I am enjoying them! They also have some of the best lines of the show like:
C: "You know what's even more effective? Excess." or B: "Sex in a limo. We've literally come full circle."

Another of my favourite bits was Juliet being banished outside the Lincoln Centre. I love the fact that Nate, Blair, Serena and Chuck place themselves around her so that she feels threatened from every angle. And it was kind of reminiscent of those high school moments in the first seasons when episodes resolved like this. This was also the best fashion moment of the episode. The casual day wear has become duller over the last couple of weeks but evening wear has strengthened. I really loved Blair's SS08 Ralph Lauren (hated the hair, though), especially because it was from the same season as the yello one Serena wore for Lilly's wedding to Bart Bass. I also loved Serena's FW10 Zuhair Murad and how it's really a cocktail dress but then it has all that lace that keeps it sexy but makes it a night gown. And, for the first time, I very much liked Juliet's choice. The soft lilac and nude of her SS10 J Mendel dress were all she needed to look beautiful.

On the men's fashion front, not much to report. Nate did wear a checked shirt I really liked (when he meets Juliet for coffee) and I particularly enjoyed Chuck's take on black tie. It was ever so clever to wear  a white shirt with a black collar and a bow tie. It was appropriate but it has personality.

I find funny how Nate and Dan have this moment in every episode where they talk side by side barely looking at each other. They become 'frenemies' for a couple of minutes and have what would be the equivalent of gangsters exchanging unkind comments from car to car at a parking lot.

And lastly, I enjoyed how they ended the episode on the same note as last week's but on a different octave. Bluck go from passion to meaningless sex to friendship? This is something they haven't done so far, so it might be entertaining to watch. Although, personally, I don't think it's going to work.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Screen caps, cwtv.com]

the Olsens put my distress to an end

I always run out of inspiration when I am on holiday. The utter lack of anything even remotely similar to stress relaxes me to such extent that my brain shuts down everything but the vital functions. Anyway, it is thanks to my favourite duo in the world that I have brought myself to make a new post. I love how Ashley and MK mixed romantic and sheer for their last appearance and how they added a little gothic to the equation. I am not a fan of Mary-Kate's oversized jackets but I am certainly loving Ashley's see-thru and bows —doesn't she look like a 21st-Century Coco Chanel?

I have a fixation with anything Olsen but lately I have also developed a certain fascination towards Ashley's yellow cable jumper. She has been seen using it as a cape, a scarf and a comfort blanket as well as giving it its traditional usage. It made me think of a biker jacket-shaped jumper I can't seem to stop wearing. Do you have a preferred clothing item you love wearing?

[Pictures: Celebrity-Gossip.net, OlsensAnonymous.blogspot.com, Liberty.co.uk, RalphLauren.com]

I'm off.

pastel greatness

I finally bought The Great Gatsby on DVD last week, which means I can now watch it and watch it until I know the lines as well as The Devil Wears Prada's. This time, though, I was particularly fond of how SS10 the costume design (all by Ralph Lauren, may I note) is. I unsuccessfully tried to screen capture my favourite shots, so it will have to do with a few not-very-amazing pictures I found online and one of those randomly put together youtube fan videos.
If you haven't seen the film but read the brilliant masterpiece by Fitzgerald (my second favourite book ever) you will know that the story takes place in a hot summer in Long Island. The fashion peak of the film starts when Robert Redford (Jay Gatsby) slips into his first white suit and finalises with the ultimate pink pastel suit. All dextrously accessorised with contrasting-coloured ties, pocket squares and (my personal favourite) the collar pin.

[All dresses from Net-a-Porter.com]

Of course, after the 138 minute mode-frenzy I had to find some pastel dresses you dear readers could wear this season. The best thing is that, unlike most major trends, this one is applicable to womens and menswear. I already have in mind a handful of buys to get ready for this Spring —starting with these beautiful pair of beige and grey shoes I acquired on Saturday. Are you in?

I'm off.

bloody weekend starts on Thursday

These below are Vampire Weekend. They are, to my eyes, the coolest thing to hit the music scene is the last couple of years (no offence intended against anyone's taste) and they are playing at Somerset House in London tonight!
Why are they cool, you might ask. Well, here are three reasons:

1. They wear loads of Ralph Lauren colourful shirts and old-school blazers and were featured on the January issue of Vogue US (pic above).

2. They're all Columbia students and they describe their music as "Upper West Side Soweto"

3. The singer is called Ezra, their debut single was called "Cape Cod Kwassa Kwassa" and my favourite song from their latest album is called "Horchata".

I'm off.

she-bag

Some are old and some new. Some a sigh and some a snort. But they all took their name from someone special to their creators. The Birkin and the Kelly are veterans and the ladies they took their names from marked a style in their era. The Ricky (Ralph Lauren's wife) and the Gisele (Bündchen) have been in the market for a few years already and they keep getting facelifts trying to find their place in fashion history. And the Hayden (Panettiere) and the Alexa (Chung) are the latest additions to the club —to me the first doesn't stand a chance and the second is stunning. Which one is your favourite?

I'm off.

"The way of the future"

Once again I couldn't help myself. Something of the like happened the last time I watched Out of Africa, the film sucks me in and I cannot stop thinking about it until I put together something like this. This time the film is The Aviator. Funnily enough both of them were movies I had seen several times before but it seems as if once never suffices. I was surprised by how contemporary and fashionable the styling looks in the film.

Howard Hughes and Katharine Hepburn mix tailoring and knitwear like pros adding round sunglasses and fedora hats as finishing touches.

Above: Jenny Jayne F/W09, DiCaprio and Blanchett in their alter ego's ensembles, and Ralph Lauren F/W09

Hepburn epitomised the boyish look. Suits and shirts à la homme far from body-con yet extremely sensual.

F/W09 - Hutson, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Dolce & Gabbana

F/W09 - Etro and Dries Van Noten

DiCaprio walks around in his leather Belstaff jacket that was made into a special edition. A look from which Hermès and Richard Chai draw inspiration for next season.

Ava Gardner could easily be a fashionable woman of today. In contrast with Hepburn's style, Gardner was more pompous and exhuberant. Striking colours and cuts mixed with big accessories.

From left: Gianfranco Ferré and Louis Vuitton

Now, these I have been trying to track down on the Internet. They are my most desired item of the season. Sadly, Proenza Schouler did not commercialize their metallic version from the runway.

From left: Michael Kors S/S09, DiCaprio wearing my desired shades, and 3.1 Philip Lim

[Picture credits: Style.com, Imdb.com]

I'm off.

eternal sunshine of the spotless ACCESSORY, part 2

It is what you all were waiting for, and here it is. The second part of the S/S 2009 accessories special. Stare, dream and comment away!

We are always looking out for the shades of the season, and here they are. And they are also the best homage of Mary-Kate Olsen. Dries Van Noten managed to take ethnic into the future, and in what a way!

Chanel is the quintessential runway to look at when searching for classic that for magnificently on season as well. Their high heels à la Blair Waldorf add a classic with an edge touch and that plastic-like bag will most likely be all over the place.

Next season's Fendi accessories are the best twist for any outfit. Their take on the Hermès Birkin bag and the colourful peep-toe wedges do not seem to go very well together but might be two fantastic options for an edgy summer ensemble.

Giambattista Valli decided not to create something new but to take his very own approach on the classic stiletto shoes. Add interesting colours and fabrics and a little platform and you are on business!

Givenchy keeps following the gothic line that made them one of the top brands this season to create the chicest leather shoes that will make the delights of all those Rock'n'roll lovers out there.

Even though Marc Jacobs colletions for his own brand and Louis Vuitton very much hold hands the latter contained excellent pieces showing the biggest variety of colours, materials and shapes.

Marc Jacobs brought his inspiration from the Louis Vuitton collection into the bags for his own brand. His classic shapes and chains add up to the fresh colours very originally mixed.

Michael Kors not only brought the aviators to the limit but his pattern-mixing for men are nothing but preppy-ly exciting.

A collaboration with Christian Louboutin always pays off and Phillip Lim knows it. The flower-like leather shapes make his shoes the most glamorous item to own next season.

Ralph Lauren came up with a 21st-century Great Gatsby and created beautiful hats and sunglasses made for those romantics like me who dress like back then because they could not live it.

Viktor & Rolf's shoes are not made for just anyone. However, if you are so picky you will only wear unique pieces and you are not afraid to be risky they are most definitely for you.

If sunglasses above are not fit for your taste you might have to look at Yohji Yamamoto's. His shapes are innovative in so many ways but look back at the past instead of into the future unlike must other designers'.

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.