From right: Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Aquilano Rimondi and Lanvin F/W 2011
Style.com

I first realised this was a mini-trend a couple of weeks ago while watching Project Runway. Nina Garcia was wearing this stunning Lanvin black mini dress from the FW11 collection and it struck me how incredible the big brooch at the front was. I also noticed that Nina wasn't wearing any other accessories (apart from shoes, haha).

I remembered a lot of embellished tops at the FW11 Ralph Lauren collection –one of my favourites in years. And so I looked at a few of the collections to find how other designers had approached this 'bejewelled dress' trend.
My first instinct was to revisit Ralph and Lanvin, where I found a handful of other options, all of which included some sort of intricate detail at the top front of the dress. Probably the chicest option. Then I headed to Chanel because, well, Karl tends to do this a lot. For FW11 he included the jewellery pieces in the geometric forms of the top of his dresses, which were somewhat Byzantine.
I found a different take from Aquilano Rimondi, who has instead used his jewel detailing around hemlines and the seams. A very Italian point of view, which makes me think instantly of those infamous Valentino heels.

Thinking ahead: Erdem SS11

I am yet to make my mind up about whether I enjoy how some brands start selling some of their pieces ahead of the season. Cases like this, however, make it more difficult for me to decide because I love some of the collections so much I can't wait to see them on! Erdem is one of the first ones to be selling SS11 and they are doing so in the shape of a capsule collection for Matches for which they have included some of their incredible printed dresses from the runway collection as well as some exclusive pieces for the famous London retailer. This satin dress below is my favourite piece in the collection because I love the mix of the kind of more traditional flower print brought up to date with a 3D effect and the more modern abstract one cutting it off. Are you a fan?

I'm off.

[Pictures: Matchesfashion.com]

3 dresses to remember

I suppose it's common to all of us who attentively follow fashion week season after season to always have in mind a dress, outfit or accessory that was iconic in every collection. This past Haute Couture season there have been three dresses that were like that for me. Be it because of the design, the way it was shown or what they signify to me, I can't seem to shake them out of my mind. I find it quite funny as each one belongs to a collection I didn't post about this week, so it was only fair to at least mention them.

Givenchy was very much perfect. Every single dress seemed to have been created to make memorable moments completely unforgettable. My favourite was this white lace one, which is closed off at the top with zips in very straight lines and slowly gives way to a sinuous split at the bottom. I guess I also remember it because it looks flawless on Mariacarla Boscono.

Valentino was this season's surprise for me. They turned their obsession with bows into very directional motifs that give a flirty cohesion to the line. I loved this 'bird cage' dress because it was unexpected and made me think of something Viktor & Rolf would create in a moment of softness. You also don't need a bag if you're wearing it because you can keep all your stuff hopping around your waist.

I loved Armani Privé's palette in this collection but I didn't quite get or liked the line per se. However, there were two or three dresses at the end, like this one, that looked super sexy. Since the dress leaves very little room for skin to be shown, it is the shiny nude sequins and body-hugging silhouette that have to make the dress sexy. I can't wait to see someone like Anne Hathaway in it.
Which was the most memorable Haute Couture dress for you?
I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

soVIP 3rd birthday

Such day as today, three years ago, I made my first post on soVIPzone. It feels like an age ago when I first wrote about Anna Wintour and the Oscars and accompanied the text with rather poorly edited images. A lot has changed since then —a new layout, more diversity in content and, most importantly, my new contributor and friend Giulia. And so, to celebrate my three years as a blogger I am giving you, the people who keep visiting and supporting soVIPzone, a look inside our rooms and wardrobes. Our very own fashion shrines where inspiration comes and goes and where all that you read here is written.

My room in Bermondsey —you can see Tower Bridge and the Gherkin from my bedroom window— is still a long way from being finished (please don't judge my shoe disorganisation) but everything from my inspiration wall to the order of my blazers and my trousers follow very strict arrangements. Also, I took a picture of my favourite daily shoes (clockwise from the grey suede ones: Cos, Lanvin, Acne, Cos, All Saints and Zara) and of my massive collection of blazers that takes up half of my wardrobe (each hanger has at least two and has anything from H&M and Zara to Hugo Boss and vintage pieces).

Giulia's room in Marylebone is the perfect space to dress up —high ceilings and plenty of white space. It gives her select assortment of statement jewellery an understated touch while it makes her jumbo Chanel, her Miu Miu array and her vintage Alaïa totally pop out even just on their hangers. Contrary to me, her shoes are perfectly organised in boxes —where you'll find anything from Zara and Stella McCartney to Louboutins and Dolce & Gabbana. It's her home-made portion of Heaven!

Thanks once more for keep checking back, leaving your comments and, generally, showing some love.

All the best,

Iñaki & Giulia x

[Picture credits: soVIPzone, excuse the bad technique!]

My Favourite Dress

It isn't something unusual to find a list of a blogger's favourite dresses every now and again —I have done it several times. However, it is not every day that the most prominent fashion big names open up about their preferences. In 'My Favourite Dress' 150 designers and fashion personalities look back at their trajectory to pick their favourite creation ever. If that weren't enough, the forewords by Suzie Menkes (personal Goddess) and Alexandra Shulman make this new book pretty much irresistible.I had the chance to have a look at the book and I have to admit I was impressed and surprised. I never imagined that certain fashion icons would choose such simple, old or new pieces. Anyone from Mary Quant to Stephen Jones and Christian Lacroix or Hamish Bowles describe as well why they love their picks, which makes you feel somewhat nostalgic and linked to them —I specially loved Gianfranco Ferré's, Hamish's and Donna Karan's selections (none of whom I was particularly fond of before the book). Hence, I am ordering my copy as a late Christmas present! Click here to get yours (UK click here).

I'm off.

to DIE for, vol. 2

And here I am again. Let’s resume and put an end to the S/S’08 dress special.

Following my habit of picking up my three favourite dresses, I chose the following. First, Versace’s surprisingly tasteful sky-blue gown. And I say surprisingly because if there is something Donatella usually lacks that is taste, which is the reason for my doubting her involvement in the collection. Next is Donna Karan’s pale pink dress. The beauty of it lays in the draped front and in the ingenious triangular black straps. The futuristic wrap-up dress with beading details by Marc Jacobs is my third favourite pick.

Looking at the rest of the list we find Oscar de la Renta’s blinding dress, where a flowery ingredient is brought it by a sort of see-thru cut-play. Right next to it is Celine’s über-cute dress. The cut, the neck and the penguins make it perfect for a shopping day in town. Tory Burch combines Diane Von Furstemberg’s S/S idea with bold colours, a very fun and playful choice.

However, this summer is time for maxi-dresses and it seems only obvious when looking at these collections. Consuelo Casteglioni’s refreshing touch at Valentino’s has provided very elegant dresses such as the one above in pale pink. Cavalli’s Cruise collection was remarkably good and very him, which is not a usual combination. He has managed to get quite a lot things going on in a dress without letting it go over-the-top. Now, when talking maxi, Carolina Herrera is also well experienced. I am very fond of that sofa-like print; it is just so east coast elegant.

The last set of dresses includes Philip Lim’s perfect approach to boho chic in a colour for all seasons; a bright blue Yigal Azrouël draped like a venetian curtain and calling out for attention; and a Jonathan Saunders' arty colour-craze.

Your thoughts?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I’m off.

to DIE for, vol. 1

It is funny how I first felt contempt when faced with Resort collections and then, as the ones worth looking at came out, I was left in awe. Curiously enough, those designers thought to be the big genius minds of the industry were the biggest disappointments of what I like to call the “Resort experience”. Lagerfeld, de la Renta, Herrera, Galliano; they all came up with what they thought were brilliant ways of reinventing their signature looks for Cruise, that still out-of-grasp term known more for inflating pockets than for pushing fashion forward. Nonetheless, there are always great minds that escape financial purposes and put themselves out there to show that there is more to have than just a name and glamorous quirks.
Newer members of the fashion world use every available occasion for showing off their creative skills and taking further steps into a growingly snobby industry. Thanks to this, we find innovative and sleek Resort collections from the hands of Yigal Azrouël, Brian Reyes, Jonathan Saunders or Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough to name a few. Despite the fact that it is them —the less broadly applauded— that tend to lately outshine the experienced, I feel I cannot deny Cavalli, McCartney and Miuccia some credit. The last two also tend to keep living by they fashionable style morals not letting us down regardless of their success as brands. But Cavalli, he is like a rollercoaster where the ups and downs change with every turn. One moment he is disgustingly tacky and next thing you know, he has come up with the chicest Italian-boho collection. Being completely honest, this can be bad and good, as anything coming from him is surely unexpected.
All this said I should get to the point. Cruise collections have helped me put together a special I have been meaning to do for a few months, ever since S/S 2008 premiered on the runway. A special on dresses; what I believe to be a girl’s best friend, or rather, ally. They are feminine, fresh, comfortable and versatile —what else is there to be asked?
Have a look.

Let’s first look at my picks from Spring/Summer’08. The three dresses topping my favourites list belong to the collections I liked the most this season. First we have the futuristic simple YSL cotton dress Stefano Pilati delighted us with and one we have already seen several times walking down the red-carpet, although no one pulled it off quite like Kate Moss in the ads for the brand. Next is Alber Elbaz’s vision of an intense-coloured wild garden. I am crazy for Lanvin’s ruffles and they seem the best choice for a stylish summer night. The third of the gowns is by Roberto Cavalli, my eternal uncertainty. His summer bohemian take on flower motives transported onto silk, especially on this piece, looks like a 21st-Century Midsummer Night’s Dream. If only Shakespeare would rise up.

Next on the list are Phillip Lim’s beautifully draped earth-coloured gown, Stella McCartney's sheer short dress in her acclaimed floral print, and Paul Smith’s view on nerd goes chic following the stripe trend.

As tired as I am of the waist-belt thingy, I can’t but admit the intelligence of Max Azria’s layered dresses. The way he plays with layers and fabrics is simply fantastic. As fantastic is de la Renta’s puffy black and red gown.

When looking for a fabulous white dress, Carolina Herrera is most likely to be the chosen one. Her clean and simple lines and deliciously made detailing make her pieces timeless picks. Dolce & Gabbana’s obsession with art results in dramatic gowns where brush strikes interact with gauze in perfect unison. The last gown in the picture is Balmain’s genius ultra-hippy look. A perfect combination of tie-dyed fringes and vaporous printed gauze.

Alexander McQueen never lets down when it comes to dresses. Whether looking at his wonderful suit-like grey short dress with my adored red corset or at the peacock-dream gauze one, you can’t but be amazed. Alberta Ferreti, on her side, delighted us with her ancient Greece dream where goddesses walk down the street in silver flip-flops.

Prints are in and we know it. So why not going for a dress from one of the kings of prints —Pucci. While his crazy take on colours can be a little overwhelming for the winter, it is a perfect choice for a house party by the pool. Less pool-friendly but equally colourful are Catherine Malandrino’s summer gowns. The key is the detailing —glittery beads in a V-shape or subsequent watermelon layers that reach the floor.

Missoni’s collection was if anything rich. Their signature print makes and outstanding maxi-dress and the sequenced and jewelled parts make your diamonds unnecessary. Fendi goes simple with the cleanest of gowns, letting their coloured-stones belt be the protagonist.

Seeing the length of this post so far, I have decided to leave my picks from the Resort collections for a coming post. I have retaken my blogger duty with way too much enthusiasm but that shall not be the excuse to bore you to death.

Which ones are your favourites? Any major designs I have missed?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I’m off.