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I still get surprised everyday at the quantity of tweets (Goddess) Anna dello Russo produces per day. It is so refreshing and inspiring that someone so relevant and distinct in the industry takes time to share her life and thoughts with all of us trying to make it. There is nothing pretentious about her, only a deep love for fashion and the desire of sharing that love with similar people. All of this seems incredibly touching and inspiring to me because I think of fashion during the whole day and dream of it all through the night. It's a passion that goes beyond material things and popular names on tags. It's a lifestyle.
Today, Anna tweeted a couple of pictures of herself with Cucciolina wearing a SS08 Cavalli dress (my favourite collection from the last 10 years) while working on a shoot with Tommy Ton in the little Italian town of Cisternino where she has a house and, wait for it, an AdR branded pool that Tommy Ton has had the privilege to literally drench himself in dello-Russo-ness.

Another of the aspects that I love about Anna the most is the fact that she blogs about looks that she'd love to wear. This might seem silly but, coming from someone who has worn and daily wear the best designers in the world, it is a sincere sign of how down to earth she is. And so, given that she is wearing some of my favourite looks from the past few seasons, I've taken the liberty of choosing a few of the pieces I would personally love to see on her.

Clockwise from top left: Roberto Cavalli SS08, Balenciaga SS08, Roberto Cavalli SS09, Marc Jacobs SS09, Prada Resort 2011, Dolce & Gabbana SS09, Fendi SS09, Christian Dior SS09.

I'm off.

[Pictures: AnnadelloRusso.com, Twitter.com/annadellorusso, Style.com]

to DIE for, vol. 1

It is funny how I first felt contempt when faced with Resort collections and then, as the ones worth looking at came out, I was left in awe. Curiously enough, those designers thought to be the big genius minds of the industry were the biggest disappointments of what I like to call the “Resort experience”. Lagerfeld, de la Renta, Herrera, Galliano; they all came up with what they thought were brilliant ways of reinventing their signature looks for Cruise, that still out-of-grasp term known more for inflating pockets than for pushing fashion forward. Nonetheless, there are always great minds that escape financial purposes and put themselves out there to show that there is more to have than just a name and glamorous quirks.
Newer members of the fashion world use every available occasion for showing off their creative skills and taking further steps into a growingly snobby industry. Thanks to this, we find innovative and sleek Resort collections from the hands of Yigal Azrouël, Brian Reyes, Jonathan Saunders or Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough to name a few. Despite the fact that it is them —the less broadly applauded— that tend to lately outshine the experienced, I feel I cannot deny Cavalli, McCartney and Miuccia some credit. The last two also tend to keep living by they fashionable style morals not letting us down regardless of their success as brands. But Cavalli, he is like a rollercoaster where the ups and downs change with every turn. One moment he is disgustingly tacky and next thing you know, he has come up with the chicest Italian-boho collection. Being completely honest, this can be bad and good, as anything coming from him is surely unexpected.
All this said I should get to the point. Cruise collections have helped me put together a special I have been meaning to do for a few months, ever since S/S 2008 premiered on the runway. A special on dresses; what I believe to be a girl’s best friend, or rather, ally. They are feminine, fresh, comfortable and versatile —what else is there to be asked?
Have a look.

Let’s first look at my picks from Spring/Summer’08. The three dresses topping my favourites list belong to the collections I liked the most this season. First we have the futuristic simple YSL cotton dress Stefano Pilati delighted us with and one we have already seen several times walking down the red-carpet, although no one pulled it off quite like Kate Moss in the ads for the brand. Next is Alber Elbaz’s vision of an intense-coloured wild garden. I am crazy for Lanvin’s ruffles and they seem the best choice for a stylish summer night. The third of the gowns is by Roberto Cavalli, my eternal uncertainty. His summer bohemian take on flower motives transported onto silk, especially on this piece, looks like a 21st-Century Midsummer Night’s Dream. If only Shakespeare would rise up.

Next on the list are Phillip Lim’s beautifully draped earth-coloured gown, Stella McCartney's sheer short dress in her acclaimed floral print, and Paul Smith’s view on nerd goes chic following the stripe trend.

As tired as I am of the waist-belt thingy, I can’t but admit the intelligence of Max Azria’s layered dresses. The way he plays with layers and fabrics is simply fantastic. As fantastic is de la Renta’s puffy black and red gown.

When looking for a fabulous white dress, Carolina Herrera is most likely to be the chosen one. Her clean and simple lines and deliciously made detailing make her pieces timeless picks. Dolce & Gabbana’s obsession with art results in dramatic gowns where brush strikes interact with gauze in perfect unison. The last gown in the picture is Balmain’s genius ultra-hippy look. A perfect combination of tie-dyed fringes and vaporous printed gauze.

Alexander McQueen never lets down when it comes to dresses. Whether looking at his wonderful suit-like grey short dress with my adored red corset or at the peacock-dream gauze one, you can’t but be amazed. Alberta Ferreti, on her side, delighted us with her ancient Greece dream where goddesses walk down the street in silver flip-flops.

Prints are in and we know it. So why not going for a dress from one of the kings of prints —Pucci. While his crazy take on colours can be a little overwhelming for the winter, it is a perfect choice for a house party by the pool. Less pool-friendly but equally colourful are Catherine Malandrino’s summer gowns. The key is the detailing —glittery beads in a V-shape or subsequent watermelon layers that reach the floor.

Missoni’s collection was if anything rich. Their signature print makes and outstanding maxi-dress and the sequenced and jewelled parts make your diamonds unnecessary. Fendi goes simple with the cleanest of gowns, letting their coloured-stones belt be the protagonist.

Seeing the length of this post so far, I have decided to leave my picks from the Resort collections for a coming post. I have retaken my blogger duty with way too much enthusiasm but that shall not be the excuse to bore you to death.

Which ones are your favourites? Any major designs I have missed?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I’m off.

into the FLARE

To be quite honest, I never thought I would see this happen any time soon. We all know it is just a matter of time until runway trends filter down to celebrity closets. Regardless of this, I could never imagine flare pants would do so this hastily. Some of the most iconic celebrities of the moment have not been able to resist wearing them. Have a look.

Hilary Duff's style has been changing a lot for the last couple of years. She has gone from girly to gipsy to chic independent woman. It's the latter that has provided what I would say is the top "flared look" so far. A black tank top tucked in plus a wide square-buckled belt. An intelligent choice for the very fit body.

Spotted yesterday, Lauren Conrad also in flared trousers. It follows Duff's vision, only this time the top is a bit baggy and white. I am glad Lauren is trying new things and reserving her enviously-massive short dress wardrobe for best-suited occasions. That very long hair adds a bit of a hippy touch to the overall look and a Chanel bag is always a good pick.

Another celeb wearing this trend a lot lately is Vicky Becks. Since her dVb line came out we have seen her several times in this light-blue denim flares. She, too, pulls them off remarkably due to that über-slim body of hers and to her obsession for tight tops. I find those white paint stains all over the denim very cool.

How could she possibly not appear in any post? Ashley Olsen is the Queen of fashion. Contrary to all the rest, Ashley started wearing flares months ago, before Lauren or Nicole even could consider getting a pair. Her trousers were wider from higher up the leg and she combined them with leather peep-toes and black leather biker jacker and an Hermès Birkin bag.

Of course, queen of hippy Nicole Richie could not escape this post either. Ever since Miss Rachel Zoe came her way, and even after leaving her, Nicole has not been the same. She is now a modern chic woman. Sleeve-less white top plus standard denim flares equals effortlessly stylish.

Last, someone I never though I would write about outside a list of disastrous clothing choices. Beyoncé Knowles looked quite good in those very wide kakis paired up with Chanel accessorizing. The whole ensemble is rather flattering on her, which also strikes me as a surprise. I suppose her mum (and stylist) can get it right every once in a while, right?

Tough as it was, I found some flare pants I could even say I like. It is not like they provoke utter disgust in me, but I strongly believe they only suit very few fortunate female bodies. I chose two denim ones from Top Shop, probably one of the best —if not the best— highstreet shops to get flares. The other one, a kaki option from Chloé. This, a chicer version, is quite like Beyoncé's and my personal favourite.

What will you do —join the craze or stick to skinny?

[Pictures credit: JustJared.com, Celebrity-Gossip.net, TopShop.com & Net-a-Porter.com]

I'm off.

put THEM on

I have often remarked to the point of boredom how exquisitely attractive I find women when they look down at me from incredibly high and luxurious heels. These warmer season ahead adds a definitive factor to the equation —the showcasing of legs. If a woman on heels is most attractive, it only gets better when legs that don't seem to end come out of pumps, wedges or platforms. This is why I went to my favourite womenswear online boutique and selected a small, yet luxurious, assortment of shoes.

Sergio Rossi

Both: Alexander McQueen

From left: Christian Louboutin, Fendi

From left: Pedro García, Jimmy Choo

From left: Miu Miu, Christian Louboutin

[Pictures credit: Net-a-porter.com]

I always unconsciously select one or two models per season I finally realize I am in love with. S/S'08 is the time for those amazing turquoise Sergio Rossi and for the McQueen's in any fabric or colour (blame Gwyneth and her mini Balmain for that).

What then, will I'll be running into you wearing any of these?

I'm off.

spring CHICNESS

As much excited as I get because of the arrival of Spring there is always a certain doubt haunting me, making me wonder whether I will be successful in my ever pursuit of chicness. Most people think it is easier looking good when you are a guy but, oh believe me when I say that is far from true. Playing with simplicity 24/7 may seem a dream come true but it gets as complicated as it can. That is why I take as much inspiration from womenswear as I do for the one corresponding to me and this is how I found this perfect Spring collection from a Spanish designer I already mentioned in the "Colour for us" post a few weeks ago. I then showed you part of Purificación García's mens collection but it was about time the womens line made an appearance on soVIPzone.

I have to say I am quite into the monochrome outfitting spreading out lately, it seems a very simplistic yet sophisticated way of putting ensembles together. Playing around with textures, cuts and layering can result is such a diverse number of unbelievably chic combinations we can't even begin to imagine. Have a look.

Tailored trousers and shorts paired up with soft cotton tops and some pleating.

Sequins, patent leather and playing with sheer introduce innovation.

Massive bell-bottoms look extremely chic with fitted tops as tight pants do with loose tops.

The "sport" line brings it a little more colour, keeping it settled all the same. Fits loosen up and sleeves go up.

[Pictures credit: PurificacionGarcia.com]

To see the entire collections and find contact information, go here.

What do you think about the collection?

I'm off.

power GIRLS

I am back with a celebrity post, something I haven't done for a while even though every once in a while one or two show up. As the weather changes the rich and famous search for new ways of looking stylish before the paparazzi while not passing out under the hard LA sun.

My winners of the moment are Heidi Klum and Lauren Conrad. As you may have noticed I am feeling quite fond of colour lately and they have pulled of very simple, colourful outfits. Heidi goes for grey skinny jeans, a white tee with beach-inspired prints in various hues, and purple flats with gold embroidery. If you ask me, the perfect touch are the sharp-cut bangs and the kick-a** orange sunglasses.

As with Lauren, it struck me that she was not wearing a dress or a skirt but red jeans! Hell yeah, girl! I have to say she looks specially hot in those and I thought the v-necked plain white tee was the perfect top for the jeans. Also, I would've never expected those huge red shades à la Kanye West but she rocked them too; and I am so glad she had her hair in a pony-tail, so she stops fixing her bangs every two seconds.

Anne Hathaway leaves me well impressed every time I glance at her candid outfits as of late. This time, however, it is the role in her last film that impressed me, or rather, her looks in it. I have always been a big big fan of though girls with good looks (Buffy TVS, Bond's girls...) and it seems Hathaway has just joined them in my very personal soVIP hall of fame.

Lastly, I wanted to include LiLo because I was enjoying much her looks up until this one when she decided to go back to her old boring self. Coco from Coco's Tea Party already pointed it out on her Hit and Miss of the week but it felt just right to put it out there once again. And, no, I don't like her as a blonde! (Notice the Miu Miu bag, Victoria Beckham wore it first; will it be the it bag of the season?)

[Pictures credit: JustJared and GossipGirls]

I'm off.

PS. None of you knew about this but I applied to London College of Fashion for next year and I just heard from them: I GOT IN!! :D I'm deliriously happy!!

just for FUN

It is a deliriously sunny, warm day here in Barcelona. The previous sunny days were simply preparing the territory for an outstanding Saturday morning, so I felt it was my duty to go out and enjoy a good breakfast beneath the sunlight. I did so as I chatted on the phone with a friend, read a little, and had a close look at what people were wearing for this specially nice weather. And I was struck with an awful sort of surprise, those who were not still wearing their dull dark-coloured jackets or sweaters (I do not know who they survived, by the way) wore shorts and tank tops. Now, seriously, isn't there anything to do but go to the extremes with the slightest climate change? Whatever happened to the Spring wardrobe? The bad or lack of use of colour seems most incomprehensible to me, with all those florals and bold colours showing up everywhere!

Because all of this, people's lack of fun and colour for dressing today, I write this post. There is a brand that came my way not long ago and that I've been finding interesting lately. It's called 55DSL and it was initially created as an experimental spin-off from Diesel to later establish itself as an independent brand. "The line was originally inspired by radical sports – snow, surf and skate – and these remain anchored in its DNA. But as the brand grew, it embraced the fusion of sport and urban culture that is the foundation of today’s street style.", this is how the brand describes itself. I know that to most of you, fashionistas of the world, this will not sound very promising, but I ask you to have a look first.

I personally find very interesting the manner in which they play around with the named extreme sports inspiration, you can see it yet it's not so evident. Then, I'm quite fond of the colours they've used and the fits of the clothes as well as that very cool degradé (like Prada's). I don't know about you, but in the summertime I usually find myself searching through my closet trying to find something that it's not so tight nor too loose in which to feel comfortable and stylish. I reckon 22DSL has achieved that point.

I really like the colour jeans, I was surprised to find them in pink for guys! What do you think of them? and I am also in love with the checked shorts and the bunnies t-shirt!

Also, I found this jumpsuits and dress for girls. I have been wondering for a while whether I'll see any girls wearing jumpsuits about town, but looking at these has made it easier for me to picture them on the streets. I quite like the grey one because it looks like the kind of garment that you could wear just like that plus some Converse or stylish it up with a belt and some heels.

[Pictures credit: 55dsl.com]

For more information about 55DSL, click here.

I'm off.

it's all about the SCARF

The weather is crazy and, honestly, we don't need more incentives to grow insane. Pulling up the blinds every morning I wonder, would today be Spring, Fall or Summer? I do not know about your home cities around the world but Barcelona is quite the adventure. Having this assumed, then, the only item I am sure to be wearing is a scarf; thicker and warmer for out-of-season weather and lighter, more colourful ones for the adequate season temperature. In addition, I ought to point out that I have always been obsessed with all sorts of scarves and I own more than I will ever admit. That is why I happily looked for my favourite women scarves of the season; this was the result.

Of course, no scarf drawer should lack at least a couple of silk old (or not so old) scarves, preferably by Hermès, the top when it comes to silk. I selected a few from the last collection, they're all going for quite vintage prints and for a certain colour palette. I particularly liked the orange, another of Hermès fortes. If you're looking for a way to make your plain white tees look rich, this is it!

On a funkier, trendier, note I found several very summery proposals by some of my favourite designers. Matthew Williamson's very hippie collection was sure to provide very good accessories to spring you outfits to life as was Alexander McQueen's colour-feast collection and, hence, this amazing printed scarf. See by Chloé feels more like playing with geometric shapes, which would also look very interesting over a light plain ensemble.

Then I looked for a few scarves that you would feel like wearing every other day, like Rachel Bilson does. That one item that looks so good and fresh that you just fit into all of your looks.

Left to right, top to bottom: Bajra, Roberto Cavalli, Top Shop, AKA New York, Diane Von Furstemberg, Millions of smiles.

[Pictures credit: Hermès.com, Net-a-porter.com, TopShop.com, ShopBop.com]

I'm off.

an ORIENTAL touch

I am finally back to business. Let me apologize again for my absence, but a few affairs required my attention.

As I have usually narrated, I am specially keen on watching and re-watching runway shows over and over again during the season, scrutinizing every inch of the outfits and fixing my eyes on previously overlooked details and accessories. It was only last Friday when desperation caused by a delayed flight drove me to dive again into a few of the collections I had only so quickly glanced at —Just Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo and Alessandro Dell'Acqua. It was the latter which got a stronger hold of my attention. I cannot think of a reason why this collection seemed ordinary at first sight, perhaps for the restricted palette or maybe because of the oriental pin-up looks at the beginning, but looking at it again with a more open mind made notice how Dell'Acqua masterly used rubber on very wide, Asian-inspirated belts giving the perfect touch to the silouettes and bringing to the 21st century an ancient Kimono accessory. Then it came to realization that one of those rubber champagne-coloured belts had come my way not long ago during a visit at one of my favourite Barcelona shops. As I caressed the darker rubber strip I thought: "What a wonderful item, how versatile, how fresh! Who must have designed it?" The answer came that moment.

Now I ask, would you wear it? If so, how?

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

GLADIATOR

It has been a while since gladiators made their debut on the runway and, most importantly, on the streets. They were a big hit, specially last Summer, when all kinds of highs and designs appeared everywhere. I have to say I was very fond of Mary-Kate's knee length ones.

This season I was happy to find a very refreshing version. Phillip Lim associated with Tatami Birkenstock (whose models were also spotted on celebrities last year) to create a beautiful collection of über-comfortable and fashionable yet simple gladiators for S/S 2008. The trendiest versions include fringes in suede and patent leather or cheetah prints à la Dell'Acqua'07. Men's follow the more traditional designs but can also be found in the funky cheetah print or this season's red.

women's

men's

While having a look at Lim and Tatami's collaboration I came across two more chic views of the gladiator sandal by Tod's; they add leather in different colours and some metal and plastic to elevate the sandal to an uptown category.

All of them can be found in more colours and meterials and are available online at eLuxury.

What's your opinion on gladiators?

[Pictures credit: eLuxury]

I'm off.

COLOUR for us

I have lately become aware of the fact that I rarely post about menswear, a bizarre thing considering I am a guy who obviously has to dress and hence be updated about the men's fashion world. Well, I have the intention to post more regularly about the trends and inspiration oriented to men, specially those which influence me the most at the moment. However, I am also aware of the fact that most of the readers (at least those who comment) are girls so I would like to hear some feminine opinions about male fashion; what you like better on us and what you think it's totally wrong.

Summer is always the time for colour but I am not quite the fan this season. I love very settled colours, but mostly in the winter when I can play a lot more with them. This year, I found utterly interesting how designers have introduced the brightest of hues through jeans. This made me question my almost complete elimination of colour in my summer wardrobe and threw me for a little web tour to find some good proposals like these for the season. Well, I have.

Red is quite the boss this season, but it usually is like that. I actually bought some very amazing red jeans from TopMan last year. I am very glad I did. After having a look at most of the male collections, I couldn't keep Gucci out my head; I love the way Frida Giannini has played with red in different garments and materials, mixing it up with a lot of black leather and that black and white pattern you have surely noticed too in the women collection. My other favourite using red is Purificación García, a Spanish designer not very widely known even in her country. However, I often visit her shop either in Madrid or Barcelona and I find very interesting how she plays with colour in a subtle way, making very stylish and urban-chic proposals and including sort of a Spanish preppy touch that I have to confess I'm very fond of.

From Gucci are also other more daring hues of jeans —orange, lime green and yellow. That particular shade of orange has me going crazy wondering whether I should buy something similar if it decided to come my way. My goal for this new season was to keep it very very simple, all very clear colours, loads of plain tees, only changing the outfit including different cuts of trousers, playing with belts, shoes, socks and hats. I wanted to wear all that with my beloved classic blazers —rolled up sleeves— and different kinds of foulards and scarves. As a matter of fact, I became fascinated only this morning when I found this Dries Van Noten scarf which would give life to any ensemble.

What do you think?

[Picture credit: Men.Style.com and Purificación García]

I'm off.

BLAZER it up!

It is no secret —I adore blazers. And since most of the good ol' designers of the world seemed to agree on the matter, it felt just right to devote one of my specials to this über-versatile garment that can save us from various fashion crisis.

the Runway

I have gone —yet again— through most of the S/S'08 collections trying to find the best looks including blazers, and you can be sure of something, there is great variety. The classics never die; that is why even though renewing may sometimes be thought as the main goal of designers, we can still find clean, traditional cuts such as Hermès, in which it's the colours and fabrics that bring in freshness or Helmut Lang's, where conservativeness reigns with manly, clean lines. Alexander McQueen is a very good example of how old and new meet in perfect unison, classicism and innovation merge in such a way that finding the line that divides them is impossible.

Traditionally classic as they may be, there are always designers who won't resign to including their essence in everything. That's how we can find Wunderkind's classic shape redone with colour looking into Spring with the brand's very characteristic kaleidoscope. Lanvin, on the other hand, renews the garment focusing on the manly side of it, lapels widen and textures such as velvet play to make unforgettable events out of chilly summer nights. Oversize has been among us for a while now, but I never thought it would affect blazers, however, Dolce & Gabbana thought of long blazers where shiny materials make it hard to imagine the piece of clothing as something from the past. There are of course, those who will adapt the jacket to their view and not the other way around. Matthew Williamson's green and white striped blazer is a colourful, summery way of showing how a blazer is the it garment of the season.

As you flip through magazines, it might look as if the blazer was introduced to womenswear this season, but that is quite untrue. They have been present for ages, shorter as of late. Short cuts still kicking around prove it. Rag & Bone brings safari and classic Oxford together with pockets and light blue mixed up in a delicious two-pieces. Paul Smith, the English master, keeps using his simple lines now with very light beige hues playing with double-coloured edges. Luella's refreshment of the garment is presented by the radically narrowed down lapels and the little white part on the collar, things that appear to be big trends within the blazer craze. McQueen, again, shows off his skills and vision with another very different type of jacket, striped as a classic, with two lines of buttons and with the freshness of a fitted, short cut.

my Favourites

As much as I haven't been able to stop going about my love to blazers lately, I haven't been able to stop worshipping Yves Saint Laurent's bright blue blazer either. It should be expected, then, that I include it as my top favourite for the season. Ralph Lauren's short and striped anglomaniac version and Calvin Klein's cleanliness with the wide round neck join YSL's at the top.

my Picks

I have surfed a little around the net, trying to find different executions of the blazer that can be used in different occasions. All five of them respond to my late obsession with simplicity and elegance holding hands.

The first two are what we call musts, two examples of perfect-cut black blazers that go perfectly with everything. Chic-up a casual look with jeans or use it for layer playing.

[From right: Helmut Lang and Stella McCartney]

The other three are new versions of the tuxedo jacket, a personal favourite. All three offer distinct shapes and cuts but agree upon turning you into the chic babe of the moment. They're the perfect weapon to show how effortlessly you can pull off the perfect look adding them to skinny light jeans and a plain tee.

[From right: McQ, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood]

the Celebrities

For years blazers have been spotted both at events and included in day looks of our beloved celebrity fashionistas. Kate Moss uses it as a simple jacket over a dress, a easy way of looking good. A more classic usage is Stella McCartney's who sets an example for those out there dying to get one of her tux jackets. Victoria Beckham appeared at a Roberto Cavalli event in a black sexy tuxedo. Posh (or rather her stiff friends) let the lapels go to the sides as does with the black shirt under it.

Irina Lazareanu states herself as an aglomania lover throwing on her back a striped oversize blazer à la Ralph Lauren. Tilda Swinton likes to make statements out of red carpet choices, and we love her for that. The suit of the season, with cropped trousers, and a tux-inspirated blazer —round look. My last spotting of my beloved garment has been on Rachel McAdams, who wears a short blazer dress by Alexander Wang with almost unexisting lapels and a trendy very narrow patent leather belt.

the Boss

Anyone who haves a look at celebrity blogs every now and then (and even more of you do it on a daily basis) will agree with me on this: Ashley Olsen always does it better. And she has been a follower of the blazer for a while. For day looks she goes for standard length in dark colours only adding something different on the edges. She leaves the short blazer for very casual situations, with shorts and a manly undone look. The perfect cool and chic is Balenciaga's fault. Fur on the neck and china buttons paired up with a dark ensemble.

Ash also goes for blazers when it comes to red carpet events. The best evidence, her full-length black blazer dress which required no more and no less. Another example is the classic black jacket over experimental outfitting; rolled-up sleeves as the season marks. Sleeves also go up when she plays with layers including two blazers! A longer one over the shorter and all black.

If after this you don't have the urge of getting at least two or three blazers, you're helpless. Go to a specialist.

[Picture credits: Style.com, Net-a-porter.com, JustJared and Olsen-fan.net]

I'm off.

PS. Forgive me for all the times I've used classic, clean or simple.