Bags to Lang for

There's quite a buzz about Helmut Lang's new line of bags for Spring/Summer 2011. And very rightly so. Ever since Nicole and Michael Colovos helped revive the brand in 2006 by staying true to Lang's minimalist vision the brand continues to produce great simple pieces with an edgy style. The designers say they were trying to find a polished take on utilitarianism for this collection, for which they took inspiration in Michael's fisherman past. To me, the way those handbags have been constructed by sewing gores together reminds me more or balloon-making or rugby balls, which is even cooler and adds to the very American point of view the brand has acquired. The concept of the line is very fresh and timeless in the same way that Ghesquière's bag collection for Balenciaga was born. Maybe we're witnessing the birth of a new classic?

I'm off.

[Pictures: tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com, fashionologie.com]

BLAZER it up!

It is no secret —I adore blazers. And since most of the good ol' designers of the world seemed to agree on the matter, it felt just right to devote one of my specials to this über-versatile garment that can save us from various fashion crisis.

the Runway

I have gone —yet again— through most of the S/S'08 collections trying to find the best looks including blazers, and you can be sure of something, there is great variety. The classics never die; that is why even though renewing may sometimes be thought as the main goal of designers, we can still find clean, traditional cuts such as Hermès, in which it's the colours and fabrics that bring in freshness or Helmut Lang's, where conservativeness reigns with manly, clean lines. Alexander McQueen is a very good example of how old and new meet in perfect unison, classicism and innovation merge in such a way that finding the line that divides them is impossible.

Traditionally classic as they may be, there are always designers who won't resign to including their essence in everything. That's how we can find Wunderkind's classic shape redone with colour looking into Spring with the brand's very characteristic kaleidoscope. Lanvin, on the other hand, renews the garment focusing on the manly side of it, lapels widen and textures such as velvet play to make unforgettable events out of chilly summer nights. Oversize has been among us for a while now, but I never thought it would affect blazers, however, Dolce & Gabbana thought of long blazers where shiny materials make it hard to imagine the piece of clothing as something from the past. There are of course, those who will adapt the jacket to their view and not the other way around. Matthew Williamson's green and white striped blazer is a colourful, summery way of showing how a blazer is the it garment of the season.

As you flip through magazines, it might look as if the blazer was introduced to womenswear this season, but that is quite untrue. They have been present for ages, shorter as of late. Short cuts still kicking around prove it. Rag & Bone brings safari and classic Oxford together with pockets and light blue mixed up in a delicious two-pieces. Paul Smith, the English master, keeps using his simple lines now with very light beige hues playing with double-coloured edges. Luella's refreshment of the garment is presented by the radically narrowed down lapels and the little white part on the collar, things that appear to be big trends within the blazer craze. McQueen, again, shows off his skills and vision with another very different type of jacket, striped as a classic, with two lines of buttons and with the freshness of a fitted, short cut.

my Favourites

As much as I haven't been able to stop going about my love to blazers lately, I haven't been able to stop worshipping Yves Saint Laurent's bright blue blazer either. It should be expected, then, that I include it as my top favourite for the season. Ralph Lauren's short and striped anglomaniac version and Calvin Klein's cleanliness with the wide round neck join YSL's at the top.

my Picks

I have surfed a little around the net, trying to find different executions of the blazer that can be used in different occasions. All five of them respond to my late obsession with simplicity and elegance holding hands.

The first two are what we call musts, two examples of perfect-cut black blazers that go perfectly with everything. Chic-up a casual look with jeans or use it for layer playing.

[From right: Helmut Lang and Stella McCartney]

The other three are new versions of the tuxedo jacket, a personal favourite. All three offer distinct shapes and cuts but agree upon turning you into the chic babe of the moment. They're the perfect weapon to show how effortlessly you can pull off the perfect look adding them to skinny light jeans and a plain tee.

[From right: McQ, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood]

the Celebrities

For years blazers have been spotted both at events and included in day looks of our beloved celebrity fashionistas. Kate Moss uses it as a simple jacket over a dress, a easy way of looking good. A more classic usage is Stella McCartney's who sets an example for those out there dying to get one of her tux jackets. Victoria Beckham appeared at a Roberto Cavalli event in a black sexy tuxedo. Posh (or rather her stiff friends) let the lapels go to the sides as does with the black shirt under it.

Irina Lazareanu states herself as an aglomania lover throwing on her back a striped oversize blazer à la Ralph Lauren. Tilda Swinton likes to make statements out of red carpet choices, and we love her for that. The suit of the season, with cropped trousers, and a tux-inspirated blazer —round look. My last spotting of my beloved garment has been on Rachel McAdams, who wears a short blazer dress by Alexander Wang with almost unexisting lapels and a trendy very narrow patent leather belt.

the Boss

Anyone who haves a look at celebrity blogs every now and then (and even more of you do it on a daily basis) will agree with me on this: Ashley Olsen always does it better. And she has been a follower of the blazer for a while. For day looks she goes for standard length in dark colours only adding something different on the edges. She leaves the short blazer for very casual situations, with shorts and a manly undone look. The perfect cool and chic is Balenciaga's fault. Fur on the neck and china buttons paired up with a dark ensemble.

Ash also goes for blazers when it comes to red carpet events. The best evidence, her full-length black blazer dress which required no more and no less. Another example is the classic black jacket over experimental outfitting; rolled-up sleeves as the season marks. Sleeves also go up when she plays with layers including two blazers! A longer one over the shorter and all black.

If after this you don't have the urge of getting at least two or three blazers, you're helpless. Go to a specialist.

[Picture credits: Style.com, Net-a-porter.com, JustJared and Olsen-fan.net]

I'm off.

PS. Forgive me for all the times I've used classic, clean or simple.