Showing posts with label Hussein Chalayan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hussein Chalayan. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 9

Alejandro: the old and the new

The hype around every one of Lady Gaga's videos grows with the release of each one. I Have to admit I always get a little excited to see them for the first time but this time it was different. I can't remember how long ago it was when I read that Steven Klein, my favourite photographer, was directing her 'Alejandro' video but ever since then I literally couldn't wait. I won't admit to the number of times I have watched it since yesterday but, believe me, you'd think me a freak.
Anyway, the Gaga and Klein combination very much delivered. The video is, visually, one of the best things I have seen in music in a very long time. The Klein aesthetic covers every single shot and light choice and mixes influences that Gaga and himself share as well the ones ever-present in all his work.
Alejandro1
Gaga's first couple of outfits consist of a black cape (top picture) and a lace outfit both custom made Alexander McQueen pieces as well as a Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen custom made hat. It is no secret Lady Gaga adores McQueen and we have often seen many of his pieces in her videos. This is brought to the maximum with Steven Klein, who was close to the designer (and Daphne Ginness) and who shot editorials (like the one above for W back in 2002) and adverts for him.
Alejandro2
If you follow Klein, you'll know he is known for having a fixation with, among others, horses, Madonna, religion and sex. In 'Alejandro' the references to Madonna are endless. Gaga's "blasphemous" scenes from the video have so much in common with Madonna's 'Like a Prayer' video from 1989. crosses, rosaries and religious attire irreverently mixed with sex, custom made Atsuko Kudo (nun outfit), Hussein Chalayan (leather jacket) and custom made Jaiden RVA James (hooded dress).
Alejandro3
'Alejandro' switches between Madonna eras mixing all the different aspects of the singers that characterise Gaga. Suddenly we're in the 'Vogue' video from 1990 where Gaga more literally replicates Madonna's black suit and famous (Gaultier) pointy bra. Once again, more genius styling from Mr. Formichetti -Dolce & Gabbana waistcoat, Fracesco Scognamiglio trousers, gun bra custom made by David Samuel Menkes and Calvin Klein underwear.
Alejandro4
Again, the Steven Klein point of view is so present that many still shots of the video could very well be editorial pictures. The 'bed theme' has been such a recurrent one in his work, from Madonna's W editorial in 2002, to the Beckham's for the same magazine in 2007 or some of his more recent work. If you look at the 'bed dancing' scenes in 'Alejandro' you might even see some resemblance with Britney's 'Me Against the Music' video, a suggestion from Maddona?

Click here to enjoy the video in HQ. Here to go to Steven Klein's website. And here to check out Nicola Formichetti's blog.
I'm off.

PS. I really liked the Evandro Soldati cameo. Have a look at some of his work here.


[Credits: NicolaFormichetti.blogspot.com, Style.com, StevenKleinStudio.com. Screencaps from youtube videos.]

Monday, March 8

supernova

"A supernova is a stellar explosion that is more energetic than a nova. Supernovae are luminous and cause a burst of radiation that often briefly outshines the entire galaxy, before fading from view over several weeks or months. [...] On average, supernovae occur once every 50 years in a galaxy the size of the Milky Way. They play a significant role in enriching the interstellar medium with higher mass elements."
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[Sources: Wikipedia, Style.com]
People of the likes of Chalayan and McQueen are scarce. This year, a supernova was obscured and another shone strongly in Paris.
I'm off.

Monday, December 21

now and then

Just like I did with the celebrity style moments of the decade, I have looked back at the last ten years to remember what some fashion houses were like then and how they're now. Since I couldn't possibly pick every single designer and brand I selected soVIPzone's favourites and the industry's loved children —added Thakoon to the cocktail just in case Anna stops by. I also included my all-time favourite Balenciaga collections and Luella's greatest hit as well as their last collection that never went into production. I believe I have covered the essentials (Valentino during and post Garavani himself), the birth of Rodarte and YSL's change of hands from Tom to Stefano.
[Credit: Style.com]

I'm off.

Friday, October 9

Dr. Jekyll and Mrs. Hyde

Paris is over. Which in my own little world is synonym for another six months of waiting for the next fashion week. Didn't Anna Wintour say fashion was all about looking forward? I listen.
To those of you wondering, I did not get into any of the shows in Paris. But just the sight of Carine, Emmanuelle, Anna and Lily Donaldson contented me. It was just as nice to get back to London and go through every collection that had been showed so close to me yet was so out of reach.
It has been an extraordinary fashion week. It instantly erased some of the boredom from London and Milan from my mind. Alas, Yves Saint Laurent did disappoint me slightly. I could not say it better than the International Herald Tribune when their headlined the review "Straberry fields for never". There's that. Instead of my usual obsession with Pilati's collection Chalayan, Chloé, McCartney, Watanabe and Marant filled my mind. But I am particularly joyful about another of my favourites. Nicolas Ghesquière made me as happy as I can be by refraining from yet another chapter of his sci-fi series and returning to his roots. It was a sort of forward/backward step very much á la Rodarte.
These below, though, are all looks from all fashion weeks picked out by trend. Assymetrical is nothing very new to fashion (e.g. one-shoulder dresses) but this season it seems to be everywhere and in a more brutal attention-catching manner. Hence the Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reference. The most outstanding? McQueen, of course. Behold.
As a norm Alber Elbaz produces stunning luxurious pieces. This is the proof of asymmetry being as high fashion as you can get.
Alex (yeah,we're pals) goes to the extreme of asymmetry by creating two-sided dresses that would make the Batman character Harvey two-faces cry with delight.
From left: Dries Van Noten x2, Hussein Chalayan
From left: Balenciaga x2, Givenchy
From left: Valentino x2, Preen
From left: Stella McCartney x2, Zac Posen

[Pictures credit: Style.com]

I'm off.