It's gonna be alright

When I found out about Alexander McQueen's passing I told myself I would never like anyone's creations for his namesake brand. Then I worried about the house's future if no one could find somebody who could remotely fill Lee's shoes. Shortly after this rush of sentiments, the LVMH group announced Sarah Burton's appointment as new creative director. Knowing she had spent 15 years very close to McQueen gave me hope. But it wasn't until yesterday that we finally learnt we can rest assured everything's going to be alright. The space for the SS11 collection set a much more relaxed mood that we are used to for these shows, which seemed to be Burton's add to the brand. She played with the idea of a queen of nature. Leather leaves, pheasant feathers, butterflies and golden poison ivy wrapped around the body and shared space with McQueen's gilded staples typical of monarchic outfitting. Not only Burton didn't disappoint but she aroused an excitement we thought gone.

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri finally found a path for Valentino. After seasons of creative wandering around they started walking in the right direction on their last Couture collection and they successfully translated that vision for the prêt-á-porter line. The Italian duo wanted "dangerous refinement", made evident in the combination of materials; a tough straw lace skirt paired up with delicate Chantilly lace. Ruffles and bows, which had characterised previous collections, blended into the pieces instead of becoming protagonists. Chiffon played the biggest role on the evening wear, floating like a sophisticated jellyfish over simple, harder shapes in line with the juxtaposition of the delicate and the dangerous. The overall feel of the SS11 line was much younger (very celebrity-appealing) and focused but miles away from Garavani's legacy, which has now been reduced to a mere tag.

I'm off.

[Pictures: Style.com]

trendy GARDENS

I have finally chosen. It has taken me a while to make a decision on which of this season's trends was my favourite, but I have decided. As much spots, stripes and stars as can now be found in most of the top brands, it's the flower prints which I find most beautiful and innovative. It might come as a surprise to call florals new, but they are. Ever since the Victorian time, when they were, in my opinion, at their best, flowers have appeared in many shapes, colours and interpretations printed in gowns, shirts and all sorts of garments. As unimaginative as florals could be thought for the Spring, the new season brings them back with a range of fabrics and colours to choose from. There will only be an outcome, thought; looking freshly chic.

Stella McCartney is, for me, the designer to accomplish the best flower prints. Classic flowers in red, blue, green, yellow are stamped on delicious pieces of flowy chiffon, some with ruffles on the top, some pleated. They even show in the form of jumpsuits, a clear constant in Spring/Summer 2008. McCartney achieves very fresh and relaxed looks via simplicity, her always present motto.

If I had ever tried to imagine how a flowery collection would be with Roberto Cavalli in charge, this would not have been the result in my mind at all. Cavalli remembers everyone of his designing skills with one of the hippiest colletions of all. Flowers appear motly on chiffon and silk as the Italian designer plays with different sizes and colour combinations. Everything flows remembering those looking of the beauty and freshness of women.

Armani proposes a more controlled use of this prints, including them in small dosis on his famous black evening gowns and elegant simplistic tops. Chiffon is again a winner together with silk. Armani gives the feeling of a fully printed dress by using the flowers stems, enlongating the woman's body.

Much has been said about Ralph Lauren collection. The master surprised the audience with a compilation of memorabilia, creating clothing inspired on his favourite things of all times. Flowers are obviously present, since Lauren himself is a big admiror of Victorian times. Gowns in taffeta and chiffon are beautifully layered with lines of subtle ruffles printed with the smallest flowers.

Balenciaga's genious journey through experimenting gave life to a series of highly interesting flowery  armour-like dresses and two-pieces which cannot go unnoticed under the radar. Nicolas Ghesquière has not created a collection for the streets but not a sould could argue that he's done a magnificent work full of groundbraking proposals.

I'm happy to have come across Wunderkind in my process through S/S collections. The brand masterly combines patterns, prints and materials making it look a piece of cake. Flowers have an obvious appereance in a few gowns in pale colours, however, they're omnipresent on the decorated edges of jackets and coats. Wolfgang Joop, the designer, describes his work as seventies bohemianism.

Last, but not least, a more modern and graphic perspective on florals. Frida Giannini keeps walking the same line she followed for last winter and cruise's collections to perform a change on florals. This time they're bigger and black, white and yellow, as most of the rest of the collection. Personally, it's not my taste but I can't deny it's interesting in the least.

[Credit photos: Style.com]

I'm off.