classic is never démodé

It is finally here. Even though we are already three days into Paris Fashion Week I thought a recap on Milan was in order. I have left out many designers —those who did not innovate enough or whose creations simply did not appeal to me. In any case, S/S 2010 seems to only have recession in the back of its head. Most designers have gone back to basics —blazers and all types of tailored pieces filled the runway and they did so with pleasantly surprising twists to them. Have a look.

This was, by far, the biggest surprise. I would have not expected Ferragamo to put together such an excellent collection of timeless pieces that feel so cool and fresh.

I want to wear Marni for the rest of the summer. The cuts are so clean, the colours so softly elegant and the fit so comfy-looking that, could I afford it, you would not catch me wearing any other brand.

This was very much a flash collection, it did not even reach the traditional circa-30 looks. But sometimes less is most definitely more. And a restricted palette can make everything all the more interesting. Zegna left their textures speak.

Trussardi perspired coolness from the hip twist on formal wear to the native American inspiration dominating the second half of the show. It is urbanwear but distinctive, and I love it.

The only thing I kept thinking while looking at the Missoni collection was: "This is exactly what Chuck Bass would wear if he went to Oxford". I believe that statement to be self-explanatory.

Another surprise. Not a big big one but surprise all the same. I never like Moschino, I have always thought it to be very cheap-looking and tacky. This collection changed my mind. Even when the detailing (be it embroidery or print) might seem a little too much, it is a very new-looking collection that will possibly redirection the brand somewhere more tasteful.

I have been staring at all these looks for a couple of days trying to decide whether I like it or not. It is innovative, fair enough. But is McQueen getting too relaxed on his golden throne and thinking he can get away with anything?

Too many layers for any Italian, Spaniard, French or Greek. And I love grey to pieces but this collection does not seem very realistic when it comes to the season it is for. Now, Miuccia has played most skillfully with different materials. I am specially fond of those cottony nets.

Funny how such an Italian brand can feel so oddly British. This takes me back centuries to dodgy parts of London when burglars stole expensive garments and wore them to pretend they were posh. Only Zegna makes burglars look pretty damn stylish.

And here goes my first disappointment of the season. This Gucci collection was too diffuse, too white, too old Gucci. I did love the fit of the trousers, all of the shoes and those prints Frida Giannini uses so well.

Not groundbreaking but at least Bottega Veneta stepped out of their comfort zone and showed plenty of pieces men of any age and nationality would love to throw on their back.

D&G was not innovative or fresh but at least they changed their black and blues for beiges and browns. It is better than nothing.

[Pictures credit: Men.Style.com]

I'm off.